5 Unexpected Drafty Spots Around Your Home (and How to Fix Them)

Drafts can make your home less comfortable and drive up your energy bills by forcing your furnace to work harder to compensate for air leaks. But windows and doors aren’t the only places where outside air can sneak in. Electrical outlets, recessed lights and other less-obvious spots can also allow air to leak into your home. Here’s how to identify these unexpected sources of drafts and how to seal them to improve your home’s comfort and energy efficiency.

Electrical Outlets and Switches

Electrical outlets and switches may not seem like an obvious place for cold air to sneak in, but that’s exactly what can happen. This is especially common on exterior walls, where outlet and switch boxes can create breaks in the air barrier between the living space and the wall cavity.

To check for drafty outlets and switches, hold your hand near the cover plate and feel for cool air movement. If you don’t feel anything but still suspect a leak, hold a piece of tissue near the outlet or switch and watch for movement.

To fix a drafty electrical outlet or switch, follow these steps:

1. Turn off the power. Flip the appropriate breaker to cut power to the outlet or switch you plan to work on.
2. Remove the cover plate. Use a screwdriver to remove the plate and expose the electrical box.
3. Add a foam gasket. Install a foam outlet or switch gasket behind the cover plate to help block airflow.
4. Reinstall the cover and restore power. Replace the cover plate, then turn the breaker back on.

Recessed Lighting

Recessed fixtures installed below an attic can leave openings between the conditioned space and the attic, allowing air to move between the two. While this can happen even with newer recessed lights, it’s especially common with older fixtures that weren’t designed to be airtight.

To check whether your recessed lights are causing a draft, hold your hand or a piece of tissue near the fixture and look or feel for air movement.

To safely seal gaps around recessed lighting, follow these steps:

1. Turn off the power. Flip the appropriate breaker to cut power to the light you plan to work on.
2. Check the fixture rating. Determine whether the recessed light is IC-rated, which means it is approved for direct contact with insulation. Also check whether the fixture is labeled airtight.
3. Seal gaps around the fixture. If the fixture is designed to be airtight, seal small gaps between the fixture and ceiling with fire-rated caulk or another sealant approved by the fixture manufacturer.
4. Cover older fixtures. For older or non-airtight recessed lights, install an approved recessed-light cover in the attic, following the manufacturer’s clearance requirements.
5. Seal around the cover and restore power. Seal the perimeter of the cover with fire-rated caulk, fire-block foam or another sealant approved by the cover manufacturer, then replace insulation around it as permitted and turn the breaker back on.

Attic Hatch or Pull-Down Stairs

Like outlets and recessed lighting, an attic access opening interrupts the ceiling’s insulation and air barrier, which can allow drafts. Air leakage can be even more noticeable if the hatch was poorly installed or the stair assembly doesn’t seal tightly around the perimeter.

You can often feel around the edges of the hatch for cool air, though a piece of tissue can be helpful for pinpointing smaller leaks.

To stop air leakage around attic hatches, follow these steps:

1. Add weatherstripping. Apply adhesive-backed weatherstripping around the perimeter of the opening to create a tighter seal when the hatch is closed.
2. Add rigid foam insulation. If the hatch itself is poorly insulated, attach rigid foam insulation to the back of it to help reduce heat transfer.
3. Use an insulated attic-stair cover. For pull-down stairs, install an insulated cover in the attic to help reduce both air leakage and heat loss.
4. Make sure the hatch closes tightly. Check that the hatch compresses the weatherstripping evenly. If needed, adjust the hardware so it closes more securely.

Pro Tip: If you can see light around the perimeter of a closed attic hatch, that's a sure sign that it isn't sealing properly.

Plumbing and Pipe Penetrations

Holes cut for supply lines and drain pipes are often larger than the pipes themselves. These openings can connect the room to wall, floor or crawlspace cavities, creating an easy path for cold air to enter.

Feel around pipe openings under sinks, behind toilets and near laundry hookups. Keep in mind that plumbing inside a cabinet may feel colder simply because the enclosed space gets less warm-air circulation, so a piece of tissue can help confirm whether air is actually moving.

To seal around plumbing and pipe penetrations, follow these steps:

1. Seal small gaps with caulk. Gaps smaller than 1/4 inch can often be sealed with caulk.
2. Use low-expansion foam for larger openings. Fill larger gaps with low-expansion foam. Avoid using more foam than necessary, as excessive expansion can put pressure on nearby pipes or trim.
3. Let the foam cure and trim the excess. Once the foam has fully cured, trim away any excess with a serrated blade if needed to reinstall escutcheons or other trim.

HVAC Registers and Grilles

Drafts can sometimes come from around HVAC registers and grilles, where gaps may form between the duct boot and the surrounding drywall, floor or ceiling. Air can leak through these openings even when the ductwork itself is intact.

To identify the source of the draft, turn off your HVAC system so there is no airflow coming through the register. Remove the register cover and inspect around the duct boot, then use your hand or a piece of tissue around the edges to check for air movement.

To seal drafts around HVAC registers and grilles, follow these steps:

1. Seal small gaps with caulk. Small gaps between the duct boot and the surrounding wall, floor or ceiling can often be sealed with caulk.
2. Seal gaps in the duct connection. If you find a loose seam or small leak where the duct connects to the boot, seal it with UL 181-rated foil HVAC tape or duct mastic, as appropriate.
3. Reinstall the register cover. Once the repairs are complete, replace the register or grille and make sure it sits securely against the surrounding surface.