Follow These 20 Simple Spring Lawn Care Steps for a Beautiful Yard All Year Long

Admit it — you have lawn envy. Everyone craves their own little patch of grassy paradise, whether it's to boost a home's curb appeal or transform a boring backyard into a welcoming oasis for family and friends. Let our top spring lawn care steps help you keep your yard healthy and lush all year.

When is it time to start my spring lawn care?
Start in early to mid-spring, when the temperatures remain above 50 to 55 degrees F. "Let your local climate lead your timing, waiting for consistent temperatures before pruning, fertilizing, or mowing," says Keegan Nesvacil, President and Co-Founder of Woodland Tools Co. "Adjust watering and pruning to match climate conditions, focusing primarily on airflow in humid climates and moisture retention in dry or hot regions."

When should I start mowing?
Wait until the ground is dry and the grass has grown enough to need cutting; you don’t have to follow a firm schedule.

How often should I water my spring lawn?
As a rule of thumb, apply an inch of water a week, but this varies by your region.

Read on for spring lawn care tips that will get your grass off to a great start and keep it green and healthy all year long.

In some parts of the country, snow mold develops under a blanket of snow. It's a grayish-white or pinkish fungus that forms matted patches of grass. It grows before the ground has a chance to freeze and traps moisture that encourages its growth. Snow mold is most often found on cool-season grasses. To help prevent this problem, rake and dethatch your lawn in the fall and mow before the first snowfall. If you've had snow mold in the past, use a preventative fungicide in the fall, too. Once spring arrives, fungicides won't really help. Your best option then is to lightly rake up the matted grass to increase air circulation, give the new grass space to grow and repair the damaged spots, says Theresa Smith, Senior Vice President of NaturaLawn of America.

Thatch is living or dead organic matter--that is, stems, roots and clippings that build up between the ground and the grass blades. Less than 1/2 inch is actually good for your lawn, because it helps hold moisture in the soil, discourage weeds from sprouting and moderates temperature changes. More than that can block water, nutrients and air from reaching the roots and lead to lawn diseases, pests, root decay and drainage problems. Dethatching is the process of removing this build-up from your lawn. You can use a leaf rake, garden rake or specially-made dethatching rake. For heavy thatch removal (more than 1-inch thick), consider renting or buying a power rake.

Dethatch cool season grasses in early spring or fall. For warm-season grasses, wait until late spring or early summer. An intense removal of thatch can be rough on your lawn, so make sure you do it when your lawn is actively growing and can recover.

A healthy lawn needs soil with a balanced pH level, which is usually from 6.0 to 7.0, depending on the type of grass you have. Test your soil every two or three years so you'll know exactly what additives, if any, the lawn needs. County extension services will often test a soil sample for you, or you can buy a DIY test kit.

In some regions of the country, lawns need lime to help neutralize the soil's acidity and reach a balanced pH. Add lime if your test indicates a need for it, but if you do this in the spring, wait until the soil warm up. Don't add lime when the grass is dormant, in the summer or at any other time when it's stressed. Be sure to read the directions on your test results and on any additives you use to make sure you don’t over- or under-treat your lawn.

Compacted soil keeps your lawn from thriving. By aerating the lawn once a year, you loosen the soil so grass roots are better able to absorb water and nutrients. Aerating also allows roots to grow deeper, Theresa says, so the lawn stays healthier. If you're putting out new grass seeds, aerating can increase the germination rate.

Aeration shoes or manual push aerators are perfect for small lawns, but if your yard is larger, consider renting aeration equipment or hiring a lawn care professional. Late spring is a good time to aerate warm-season grasses, but aerate cool-season grasses from late summer to early fall. Aerate only when the grass is actively growing.

Weed and feed is a spring ritual for many lawn enthusiasts that typically refers to using a 2-in-1 lawn care product: a fertilizer and a herbicide, or weed killer. There are post- and pre-emergent weed and feed options that tackle common, leafy weeds. Pre-emergents are applied in early spring to keep weeds from sprouting. Post-emergents are generally applied in late spring to kill weeds that are actively growing. Be sure to read the directions on your product to verify when and how it should be used.

Also, be sure you actually have a major weed problem before treating your entire lawn. Too many chemicals can stress roots, putting your lawn at risk during the intense heat and occasional drought of summer. Consider spot-spraying or pulling broadleaf weeds and applying slow-release fertilizer only if needed. Hand pulling weeds in small areas is also an option.

Yes, hand-pulling weeds can be hard work, but for small yards or weed patches, Theresa says, it may be the best solution because it reduces the need for a lot of chemicals. If you get all the roots, the weeds shouldn't return, unless they've already dropped seeds. If you don't get the entire root system, weeds can regrow from the pieces left behind.

It helps to water the lawn first, to loosen the roots and make weeds easier to remove. Protect your hands by wearing garden gloves. Grasp the weeds at the base, so they don't break, or use a trowel or Hori Hori knife to pry them up. Don't put them in your compost pile if they have seeds, which can sprout.

Once your lawn begins to green back up in the spring, you may notice a few dips or bare spots. Don't panic — you can deal with these areas by flushing the spots with water, raking out any dead grass, then leveling them out with sand and soil, as needed. Reseed with your preferred grass variety and water regularly until the new grass is fully established.

If you don't want to re-seed, you can put down sod any time the ground isn't frozen and you can keep it watered, but spring and early fall are best times, while the temperatures are cool and there's usually a chance of occasional rains.

Depending on where you live, your commitment to lawn maintenance and the type of sunlight you get will dictate which grass variety will work best for your yard and lifestyle. Warm-season grasses spread by runners; they're called stolons if they're above-ground and rhizomes if they're below. The runners create a thick mat of turf that thrives in hot, sunny regions. If you live in the South and erosion is an issue for you, then this type of grass could be a problem-solver.

Cool-season grasses like ryegrass and fescues are considered bunch-type grasses and perform well in partially shady areas and climates with major temperature fluctuations (that is, where winters are cold and summers are hot). Do your homework before you invest in pricey pallets of sod or take on a major seeding project to ensure the very best results.

All grass needs water, and depending on the type of turf you have, the amount it needs will vary. If you can’t go for an elaborate in-ground irrigation system, that's OK. You can use a garden hose or a well-placed sprinkler on a basic timer. Outdoor timers are relatively inexpensive and will ensure you don’t forget those early-morning watering sessions. Simply attach the timer to your exterior water spigot, then attach a garden hose to the bottom of the timer. Turn the water on, and the timer will control the water flow to the sprinkler. Newer and more expensive irrigation systems and controls can monitor the weather for you and water when it's needed.

Watering before 10 a.m. is best so the water can soak into the lawn before the temperatures rise and it evaporates. If you water later in the day, aim for 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., so the grass has time to dry before dark, when diseases are more likely to take hold. Most turfgrasses need an inch to 1-1/2 inches of water each week, which can come from rain or watering.

Take care of your mower, and it'll take care of your lawn. Before you do any maintenance or cleaning on the mower, remove the spark plug for safety. Drain any leftover fuel and replace it with fresh gas, and change the oil and air filters. Read your manual to see if any parts need lubricating, and check the air pressure in the tires.

Do not handle the lawn mower blades until the spark plug has been removed from the mower and the blades are off. Again, for safety, have a professional sharpen and balance them, or replace them if needed. While the blades are off and the mower is disabled from running, clean the top and underside to remove dirt and caked-on grass.

If you have a battery-powered or electric lawn mower, charge the battery and be sure the connections are secure.

"The proper height to mow your lawn depends on the type of grass you have," Theresa says. Her recommendations for some common turfgrass varieties are:

Bluegrass, Ryegrass, Tall Fescue and St. Augustine grass - cut at 3 inches

Centipede grass and Common Bermuda grass - cut at 2 ½ inches

Zoysia grass - cut at 2 inches

Hybrid Bermuda grass - cut at 1 inch

When it comes to cutting the grass, less is more. Don't scalp your lawn, especially cool-season varieties or "bunch" grasses. Scalping occurs when you cut more more than the top third of the grass blades. Cutting too much can stress the grass and cause unsightly browning. Cool-season grasses that grow vigorously in the spring can be allowed to grow about 2 to 4 inches tall. Warm-season grasses that thrive in the summer can be allowed to grow about 1 to 3-3/4 inches tall, so they may require more frequent mowing. Find the optimum mowing height for your variety.

Diagonal cuts look fancy, but changing your mowing direction is actually good for your lawn. By mowing in different directions, you ensure a more uniform cut, an upright growth pattern and help reduce soil compaction. Mowing in the same pattern all the time actually trains the grass to "lean" in a certain way, and the wheels of the lawn mower can form unsightly ruts. Try mowing in stripes or a checkerboard pattern to add visual interest to your lawn.

If you abide by the one-third rule, which means not cutting more than one-third of the height of the grass blades at one time, you can leave your clippings on the lawn, and they'll work as a natural mulch and free fertilizer. Clippings are rich in organic compounds, so don’t bother gathering them up unless they're very long, wet or in heavy clumps; you don't want the clippings to smother the lawn by keeping sunlight and watering from getting through. Don't leave clippings from diseased turf on the lawn, either, to avoid spreading problems.

Rake up the clippings or use a grass catcher on your mower to collect them. Try to dispose of them somewhere that they can decompose without harm, to avoid sending them in bags to crowded landfills.

"If you have low-hanging trees and limbs, you may want to have these thinned or removed before beginning lawn care," Theresa says. "Elevating or thinning tree canopies can help to provide more sunlight and air movement and create a healthy lawn."

It's better to prune trees while they're dormant, but go ahead and remove dead, dying, broken or diseased branches whenever you see them. You can also prune lightly in early spring; just don't stress the trees by removing more than 10-15% of their healthy branches. Some flowering trees shouldn't be pruned until their flowers finish, so research the kind you have before you cut. Consult a tree professional or arborist for help or more information.

Check your lawn's irrigation and drainage systems in the spring, says Sara Bendrick, a licensed landscape contractor, STIHL spokesperson and former host of such programs as HGTV's A Very Brady Renovation and Lawn and Order. "After months of freeze-thaw cycles, your soil has likely shifted, buried sprinkler heads and created low spots. Get ready for the season by uncovering and inspecting sprinkler heads, clearing debris from drainage paths, and trimming back grass around irrigation zones so water can flow freely and evenly."

Look for sprinkler heads that don't pop up, leaks that may be coming from broken pipes or lines and sprinklers that spray water onto a street, driveway or walkway instead of onto your lawn. Read the manual that came with your devices or system to troubleshoot other issues, or contact a professional if you suspect hidden or underground problems.

For an eye-pleasing lawn with clean, sharp borders, edge your grass in spring. Edging is easier then, than later in the season, because the grass has has only recently started growing again and the ground is often soft from spring rains. If rain is scarce, water before you edge. Wear protective gear to shield your eyes and sturdy shoes to guard against accidental cuts. To form curves, follow a garden hose you've placed in the lawn or edge around the contours of garden beds. For straight lines, follow a walkway or driveway or use a string line.

We love our pets, but animal urine and waste can burn or damage lawns. Dilute the salts in urine by flushing the affected areas with water and clean up other wastes right away. In spring, mitigate pet damage by mowing your grass slightly higher than usual; this can help it resist any digging or traffic from their paws and claws. Protect your pets, too, by using only fertilizers and other lawn care products labeled as pet-safe. Keep all lawn care products out of their reach.