Expert Tips for Creating the Perfect Skincare Routine

Whether you’re looking to upgrade your current AM and PM complexion care or start a skincare routine altogether, it helps to know which products go into an effective regimen.

While you might think that simply heading to the store (or a store’s website) will make it clear which skincare products to buy, doing so without knowing what you’re shopping for can actually be more overwhelming than helpful. After all, with seemingly endless skincare products on the market, it can be jarring to see just how many bottles, tubes and jars line drugstore aisles, let alone the inventory that stocks the shelves of full-blown beauty stores like Ulta or Sephora.

That’s why, rather than beelining to a beauty aisle or store, we recommend clicking (and reading) through the slides ahead. There, you’ll find advice from a handful of skincare experts on not only the product categories any effective skincare routine needs, but how to apply them, too.

Each and every day should start and end with washing your face. Where people with dry, regular and combination skin types can get away with rinsing with water or swiping with micellar water, Toronto-based dermatologist Dr. Sandy Skotnicki, who is the author of Beyond Soap, says that those with oily, acne-prone skin should wash their faces with an oil-free cleanser to help mitigate shine and rid the skin of any acne-causing oil and bacteria that may have formed overnight.

At night, Dr. Skotnicki says that everyone should use a classic gel or cream-based cleanser to go to bed with a fully refreshed face. “I think it is important to cleanse the face at night of pollution, makeup and sunscreen, as well as oil and dirt buildup,” she explains.

Time of day aside, licensed esthetician Danielle Gronich says that if you wear makeup, it’s very important to have a gentle cleanser on hand specifically for eye makeup removal. Because it is the thinnest skin on the body (let alone the face), it’s important to use a gentle cleanser that won’t require any tugging or harsh rubbing during removal, as both can lead to the premature formation of fine lines and wrinkles — plus, it’s just uncomfortable.

“A cleanser is key as it helps to eliminate the dirt, debris, oil, makeup and build-up from the day,” reiterates NYC-based board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick. “It can also work to eliminate excess oil.”

Of course, in order to achieve the intended results, you have to use the right cleanser formula for your skin type. In general, Dr. Garshick says that those with normal, dry, sensitive and/or mature skin types should opt for a hydrating cream cleanser (or makeup balm) formulated with strengthening ceramides and hydrating humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, while those with oily, acne-prone skin should use an oil-free, gel or foam cleanser. The reason being is that gel and foam cleansers are often made without the heavy, hydrating ingredients that cream cleansers tout, which can trigger breakouts for those with acne-prone skin. In their place, you’ll find an array of gentle exfoliating acids that work to help rid the skin of excess oil, while also helping to balance the skin’s natural oil production.

Next up we have toner. While some beauty experts and dermatologists will say that toner isn’t necessary for every skincare routine — reserving it only for acne-prone skin — licensed esthetician Bianca Edwards, who has worked with the likes of Floyd Mayweather, thinks otherwise. “In my experience, many people don't know the true purpose of toner, so they see this as a skippable step,” she explains. “The toner is not just a refresher; its function is to ensure the skin is balanced and at its ideal pH after cleansing.”

When selecting the right toner for your skincare routine, you’ll want to think about your complexion goals. If you’re looking to balance your oily skin and prevent breakouts, Dr. Skotnicki says to look for toners with witch hazel or salicylic acid (which works to slough away dead skin cells and oil plugs to make way for clearer, healthier-looking skin). No matter your skin type, Dr. Skotnicki recommends steering clear of alcohol-based toners, as alcohol is known to be incredibly drying, so these toners can cause more harm than good.

After cleansing (or toning, if you follow that step), it’s time for serum. Although Dr. Garshick doesn’t believe serums are necessary for every skincare routine, she says that they can be beneficial if you have specific complexion goals in mind. “For example, if someone is interested in a preventative or anti-aging skincare routine, in the morning it can help to incorporate an antioxidant serum to help protect the skin against free radical damage, and in the evening a retinoid, or a vitamin A derivative, which helps to regulate skin cell turnover and can boost collagen production,” she explains.

The reason serums are so effective at addressing specific skincare concerns is because of the way they’re formulated. “Serums are typically liquid or gels and deliver high concentrations of an active ingredient or what some would call a cosmeceutical,” Dr. Skotnicki explains. A few popular types of serums include vitamin C (which helps to brighten the skin and address hyperpigmentation), niacinamide (which helps to hydrate and soothe skin), hyaluronic acid (which helps to hydrate and plump skin) and AHAs (like lactic and glycolic acid, which help to gently resurface the skin, lending to a smoother, more radiant visage with continued use).

Still not sure which treatment serum will work best for your skin type? When selecting your serum, cosmetic nurse practitioner Anush Movsesian, who specializes in skincare consultations, says that dry skin types fare best with humectants (like hyaluronic acid) and gentle exfoliating acids (like glycolic acid); oily skin benefits the most from oil-soluble chemical exfoliator treatments (like salicylic acid); mature skin will notice the most results with peptide- and ceramide-infused serums; and sensitive skin looks (and feels) best without any harsh exfoliating treatments.

If you’re still unsure if an exfoliating serum is right for you, Gronich wants you to consider this: “You can see how important exfoliation is for anti-aging — just look how men’s faces only tend to get wrinkles above the beard where they don’t shave,” she says. “The act of shaving is exfoliating, so you’ll notice a difference in that skin versus areas that are not getting that regular exfoliation."

After cleansing, toning and treating your skin (or directly after cleansing if you don’t prescribe to the other two steps, which, for what it’s worth, many men don’t, given their tougher, less hormonal complexions), Dr. Garshick says to apply a moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated all day long. “Regular use of a moisturizer keeps the skin healthy, soft and smooth, as it helps to replenish moisture and nourish and protect the skin barrier, helping to prevent moisture loss and lock moisture in,” she explains.

Like cleansers, it’s important to take stock of your skincare type when selecting your moisturizer. Typically those with dry, sensitive, combination and/or mature skin types fare best with cream moisturizers, while those with oily, acne-prone skin see best results with lighter gel or gel-cream cleansers, as they’re less likely to clog their easily-irritable pores. Additionally, Dr. Skotnicki says that those with sensitive skin should avoid moisturizers (and all skincare products, for that matter) with fragrance — whether it’s natural or synthetic.

Don’t let that make you feel pigeonholed, though. Dr. Skotnicki assures that there are plenty of moisturizers for every skin type. There are moisturizers to “help repair and restore skin from your cleanse, balance pH and [some even] have an added active ingredient like retinol or an antioxidant,” she explains, noting that some moisturizers also have sunscreen in them.

Sunscreen is one of the most misunderstood skincare products on the market. That’s because oftentimes folks believe that SPF application is only necessary on hot days when the sun is shining bright and they’re spending most of their time outdoors. In reality, the sun’s harmful UV rays can make their way through office windows, car windshields and even the thickest clouds, so Dr. Garshick says that dedicated sunscreen application is necessary each and every day. “It is important to use every day as it is important to protect the skin against cumulative sun damage that can occur and lead to skin changes as well as skin cancer,” she explains.

Don’t just apply an SPF-infused moisturizer or foundation to your face and call it a day, though. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, it’s important to protect all areas of exposed skin, including the ears, neck, chest, arms, hands and anywhere else without clothes. “Most adults need about one ounce — or enough to fill a shot glass — to fully cover their body,” the AAD reports.

Speaking specifically to the face (and neck and chest, because whatever you do to your face, dermatologists say, you should also do to your neck and chest to ensure a seamless décolleté complexion), Dr. Skotnicki says that most people need at least ½ teaspoon of SPF 30 or greater to adequately cover the area. “If you are participating in an active outdoor activity, wear a dedicated sunscreen of SPF 50+,” she adds.

While some people will say that the sequence doesn’t matter, Dr. Garshick points out that the order in which you apply products directly affects their effects. “It matters because it affects the penetration,” she explains. “The skin is made up of a protective barrier to prevent water loss and keep external factors out, and as a result, it is important to make sure the products being applied to the skin are able to penetrate and provide the most benefit.”

With that in mind, Dr. Garshick says that product types aside, it’s best to apply skincare products from thinnest to thickest, with oils being applied last. “If thicker or oily products are applied first, it will prevent thinner products from being absorbed,” she warns. “Additionally, if products aren’t used in the correct order and are not able to be absorbed, it may decrease the benefits.”

Tacking onto this, Movsesian says that an easy way to remember the sequence is to always apply treatments—think: retinol, topical acne treatments, etc.—first. “You always want the ‘treating’ ingredient to be applied first so that it comes in direct contact with your skin,” she explains. “This way you are getting the full benefits.”