Choosing Bathroom Countertops

There are as many materials in use for vanity tops as holes in a rain-shower head. Slab stone countertops involve knocking out a chunk of stone from a quarry, cutting it into thin pieces then sizing and finishing the pieces to spec. Butcher block and wood slabs join the stone tops to provide your space natural elegance and flair. Composite countertops are man-made mixtures, some including natural or recycled ingredients. These surfaces often answer the call for highly customizable countertops in a plethora of shapes, sizes and colors; and can compensate for the high maintenance or price that accompany natural slabs. Whether replacing an existing vanity top to give a bathroom new life or revamping the room entirely, we can help you make a choice you'll love. We'll get into the nitty-gritty of material and style options, the prices you can expect to pay and the finer points of countertop maintenance — but first, some initial thoughts to consider.

Size Up the Space
What type of bathroom are you furnishing? A main bathroom seeing high-moisture conditions and subjected to daily beauty prep routines will require far more durability in a countertop than the powder room visited by the occasional guest. Aside from allowing for more delicate surfaces, powder rooms are often smaller, so your budget will stretch further.

Articulate Your Vision
Develop a clear concept of what you want your new bathroom to feel like. Sensuous and indulgent, modern and streamlined, friendly and inviting — considering the overall vibe you want to create in your space will help you settle on a compatible countertop for your vision. With the plethora of materials and options, you can aim for high drama, understated elegance and everything in between. Check out the designer bathrooms we've featured and note the countertop selections in the bathrooms that appeal to you. Pay attention to color, finish, thickness, edge style and sink type: These preferences will influence your material possibilities. For example, quartz is the material to use if you're considering a countertop with a specialized edging, says Tammy Crosby, CEO of The House Designers. If vivid color appeals, a recycled glass or solid surface vanity top could be the way to go. Don't forget to consider the other room inclusions — style synergy is crucial.

Formulate a Budget
Before you allow yourself to fall in love with a particular countertop material, determine a budget for this portion of your overall bathroom remodel. The countertop can be significant, second only to cabinetry and bath or shower costs. Real estate agents focused on a future home sale regularly emphasize the importance of choosing materials for renovations that are in keeping quality-wise with the selections in the rest of the home. Establishing a budget ahead of time will prepare you to compromise on particular materials or style selections. As you'll see later, there are ways to achieve that posh presentation at a more practical price point.

Timeless and Time-Consuming
Remember, not all countertops can be purchased off the shelf. If you decide on a custom product requiring a special order, or a fabricator and installer, this part of the bathroom remodel can bust an ambitious project timeline. Concrete countertops, for example, can take upward of a month to completely cure so you don't want to decide on that surface late in the game. Additionally, if you're someone who likes to shop from the comfort of your kitchen table, many stone slab countertops aren't for you. A small sample is adequate for purchases of composite materials that have predicable patterns, but you need to head out to the stone yard in person to view natural slabs because of their variability.

Perfection in Patina
As you'll discover, some countertop materials are soft and susceptible to oxidation so can develop surface aging, scratching and marring. Before you dismiss these materials out of hand, consider the look. It is a tall order to keep marble in pristine condition, for example, but Americans seem to be the only ones who keep that dish on the menu. Europeans have been using marble for centuries and the aged patina is considered a desirable character of the stone. If farmhouse or rustic styles are your vibe, you should feel comfortable letting marble be itself. The same holds true of soapstone, slate and the metals, which can beautifully darken, with their colors enriching over time.

Bathroom Countertop Materials

Material choice can dramatically influence the tone of the room and you'll want to marry your aesthetic with practicality. The bathroom countertop won't be subjected to the sharp knives and scalding pots of a kitchen environment but curling irons, dropped hairdryers and chemical beauty products can do just as much damage. The following are some popular materials used for this bathroom surface staple.

Granite is a gorgeous, often speckled or veined stone commonly found in blacks, whites, pinks and greys, and sometimes golds and greens. Granite is an igneous rock — a biproduct of volcanic activity — and is composed of quartz and other interlocking minerals like feldspar and mica that cool and harden from a magma state underground over millions of years. This stone has always found use in high-end traditional bathrooms but is more increasingly being employed as a point of visual interest in minimalist modern environs too. Granite is tougher than marble and very heat- and scratch-resistant. It is not as easily damaged by acids either.

Marble is an elegant mineral used all over the world in both architectural and art applications, from the Supreme Court to Michelangelo's David. The stone is formed when limestone is subjected to pressure and heat over millions of years. Impurities in the limestone are what give marble its unique bands and veining. For household purposes, we may be most familiar with the white version with grey veining, but marble can have greens, pinks and yellows too. The two most popular types of marble are Carrara and Calacatta, named for where it is mined in Italy, and the latter is generally brighter and more distinct in its pattern. Marble is fairly heat-resistant, but extremes of temperature can cause cracking. This material can scratch and chip easily and is highly sensitive to acids. It is, nonetheless, the hardiest of the limestone-derived stones.

Quartzite is a natural stone slab countertop option that looks quite a bit like marble, arriving in whites and grays and occasionally such other colors as pinks, purples and greens. It can be uniform or veined. It is composed almost entirely of quartz-rich sandstone, with iron and other mineral impurities conferring color. This stone offers the most durability of our natural countertop options; it is harder than granite and offers more heat and chemical resistance than marble. Quartzite slab countertops should not be confused with engineered quartz countertops, which we will discuss in a minute.

Limestone countertops are found in light warm neutrals, promising a striking presentation at a more affordable price point than many of its stone siblings. Limestone is formed of shell, coral and algae that settle in warm, shallow bodies of water. This material is highly porous and is considered one of the least durable of our natural countertops, receiving high marks for appearance but poor marks for heat-resistance, chemical-resistance and scratching.

Travertine comes in dramatic earthy neutrals and is a visibly porous limestone-based mineral formed in hot springs or limestone caves. Its characteristic holes and channels are caused by carbon dioxide escaping as the stone is settling and these pores are filled with cement or resin for countertop use. Travertine can be a durable material — the Colosseum in Rome was built of it more than 2,000 years ago, after all — but it is not as heat-resistant as granite, quartzite or marble and is very easily stained.

Onyx is an opulent stone with a variegated translucence that is nothing short of stunning in architectural installations. It is a crystallized sedimentary stone that is formed in limestone caves or springs and, as such, is like the hot exotic cousin of stately marble and organic travertine and limestone. Iron creates the yellows, oranges and reds most commonly seen in countertop slabs but this mineral can be found in greens, pinks, whites and blacks as well. Onyx is pricey, hard to obtain and is the least practical vanity top material of all the natural stones because it is so easily scarred, cracked, etched and chipped. That said, it can be sealed like the others to preserve its life and would make a powder room vanity top fit for a royal visit.

Soapstone offers a warm and soft stone countertop option in a cool neutral palette. It is a nonporous largely talc-based mineral that can be composed of a variety of different minerals that influence both its density and malleability. The harder versions are used for countertops. Soapstone isn't bothered by acids or alkali so is one of the only natural countertops that offers stain-resistance without sealing and it is highly heat-resistant too. It does scratch easily, however. Soapstone oxidizes in the presence of moisture and oils, deepening the color and luster.

Slate is a natural countertop option arriving in distinctive dark hues often with striations and marbling. Slate is a foliated (layered) stone made from shale — a clay-based sediment that forms in still bodies of water as mineral particles settle. It is an incredibly hard mineral and impervious to acids and alkali, much like soapstone. It is very heat-resistant, but its compressed layers can separate when exposed to heat extremes and the surface can be scratched. Like soapstone, slate countertops age gracefully, becoming more beautiful over time.

Manufactured quartz (sometimes called engineered stone or cultured stone) is a composite countertop available in a wide variety of colors and patterns, including limestone, granite, marble, cement and steel. Quartz countertops are made mostly of loose quartz crystals (90+ percent) combined with resins and pigments. Because of its high quartzite content, it is a very durable surface — harder than granite — and its low porosity means it has high stain-resistance. This surface has excellent heat-resistance but can be scalded and burned. Quartz is not the only engineered stone countertop available — there are those composed of marble and even onyx — but quartz is by far the most popular and most durable.

Solid surface countertops have been around for half a century and are one of the most popular countertop options available. They come in a variety of colors and styles and can be designed to mimic natural stone. These countertops are nonporous and include both acrylic-based and polyester-based varieties that are made by melting the composite minerals, resins and pigments and pouring them into a mold. Because of this, solid surface countertops are seamless and a softer surface than the quartz equivalent. This category of countertop is attractive for environmental reasons: Even though it's a plastic product, many are made with recycled material.

Recycled glass countertops are a composite countertop generally available in a terrazzo look — chips and shards of recycled glass mixed with a bit of cement or resin to bind it together. Both cement and resin versions offer durability — in fact, the cement variety has the heat-resistance of granite — but can be prone to staining.

Recycled paper countertops offer a warm surface in lightly mottled colors and are composed of roughly two parts paper compressed with one part eco-friendly resin. While it seems contrary to all sense that paper would be a durable material for a moist environment, the product was actually invented for manufacturing skateboard ramps, and as such has amazingly high impact- and moisture-resistance with low porosity. Recycled paper countertops are heat-resistant only to 350 degrees, however. This material will patina, darkening over time.

Concrete countertops are available in a multitude of finishes in both muted and dramatic hues. These latter qualities are conferred by chemicals and pigments that are added to the mixture before curing or as an epoxy coating. Concrete countertops are composed of a mixture of sand, cement and water and can be reinforced with chopped fiberglass or rebar. Despite what you might expect from its dull raw material (driveways and park benches come to mind), this countertop option is wonderfully customizable — the surface can be textured or stamped, and inclusions are sometimes mixed with the cement to mimic stone or add pattern to the surface. When properly sealed this material can be more durable than stone, offering excellent heat-, chemical- and scratch-resistance.

Porcelain slab countertops are formulated in solid colors, to emulate all your favorite stones and in interesting textures mimicking linen, metal and wood. Like porcelain tile, the clay is compressed and fired at extreme temperatures to give it near imperviousness to moisture and incredible durability that includes heat-, scratch- and fade-resistance. Thinner versions of these countertops are reinforced with fiberglass. To convey the pattern of marble and other stones or for particular finishes, porcelain countertops are often glazed-fired.

Tile remains a popular material for bathroom countertops for both customizability and affordability. Tile comes in a wide range of shapes, sizes and finishes from high-drama mosaics to stately large formats. Tile composition includes familiar clay-based ceramic and porcelain but also glass, cement and many of the natural stones we mentioned previously, which translates to a way to use high-end materials that may be out of budget in slab form. Glazed ceramic and porcelain are impervious to water, hardwearing and stain-resistant, and porcelain in an unglazed state performs better than ceramic on these fronts. The undisputed downside of tile countertops is the maintenance: Grout lines inevitably trap gunk and can prove difficult to clean, but using a colored grout plays off the color of the tile and won't show dirt as easily.

Metal countertops belong in both contemporary and traditional spaces. A variety of metals are available for consideration, the most popular being stainless steel, copper and zinc. These countertops aren't solid blocks, but rather metal sheets wrapped over a wood base. They are sold in varying sheens and treatments, in smooth finishes as well as texture. Metal is impervious to water, highly sanitary and most are very heat-resistant, but all metal is susceptible to scratches and dings. Metal has a living finish, where the surface oxidizes over time to develop a rich patina, unless it's deliberately or accidentally removed. Stainless steel will still scratch but is less prone to patina (hence the stainless in the name) and the textured finishes are better at masking fingerprints and minor surface damage. Additionally, developed patinas will be susceptible to acid etching, so be careful with beauty product spills.

Glass slab countertops are striking and commonly used in modern décor. These countertops are treated and formed using methods and recipes that contribute to durability and visual interest. Glass slabs will sometimes feature a substrate — an underlaying sheet of wood or metal — to provide additional color or pattern. They can even be dramatically lit with LEDs. These countertops can have a smooth or textured surface, with the former a challenge to keep free of fingerprints. Bio-Glass countertops are made from 100 percent recycled glass, coming in a slightly variegated pattern in beautiful colors determined by the particular booze bottles used. Glass countertops are exceptionally durable and sanitary and possess excellent stain- and chemical-resistance.

Wood vanity tops confer warmth to a space, with a gentle presentation and softer natural surface than the stones. Homeowners love the look of oak, walnut, birch, cherry and maple slabs as well as butcher-block styles. Like furniture and flooring, a wood countertop can be stained to elicit its unique character or to offer dramatic color. Wood is highly porous and must be sealed for moisture-resistance. Additionally, most wood species are fairly easy to damage with heat and accidently stain with certain products. Certain species like cedar, redwood and teak are naturally more moisture-resistant so will ultimately perform better in a high-activity bathroom environment.

Laminate is economical and available in a range of finishes, including countertops that look like natural stone and other materials. It is a go-to vanity top material because of its versatility and cost as well as the ease of DIY installation. With proprietary exceptions, laminate is made by soaking multiple layers of brown paper in resin and drying them, applying a print layer (also soaked in resin) on top, and then finishing it all off with a protective sheet. These layers are all bound together with a thousand pounds of pressure. Around for a century in the US, the newer laminates are more durably constructed and the resulting countertop resists water and is relatively stain-proof. It will still burn, dull and dent, with product durability largely a matter of price point.

Bathroom Countertop Styles

Choosing countertop material is just one part of a much larger decision. Most vanity top materials have options for a surface finish, thickness and edge profile. You'll be considering your sink and faucet mounting as well as your cabinet base and backsplash (or lack thereof), and these preferences influence one another. In the past, particular materials were more often used in traditional décor and others in modern spaces but that is no longer the case, with such style choices as edge and finish having a greater influence on design than the material. Honed marble with a decorative edge in a 19th-century farmhouse and polished marble with a thick, straight edge in an industrial loft would be equally beautiful and design-appropriate.

Finishes and Textures
Finish options for natural stone countertop slabs will almost always include polished (high-gloss) and honed (matte) and sometimes other finishes. Travertine's tumbled finish offers a weathered look, and slate can be ordered in a natural cleft finish that highlights the stone's inherent texture, or a cascade finish that's a compromise between natural cleft and honed. A polished finish isn't an option for recycled paper countertops, but some laminates do offer this finish nowadays. Concrete, porcelain and the engineered and composite products capitalize on their malleability by offering fun and distinctive finishes that include ripples, patterns and textures that imitate other materials. Metals can be hammered or interestingly textured and deliberately treated to patina in dramatic ways. Glass countertops may feature both surface finishes and textures as well as substrate materials in colors or patterns that underlay the slab. The decision you make for your countertop finish and texture can influence how easily the surface is maintained.

Countertop Thickness
Most countertop materials are available in a few thickness options, with thick countertops a leading trend in modern design. Aside from appearance, countertop thickness is an important decision on a few practical fronts. Countertop materials may be suitable for wall-mounting or floating and allow for larger overhangs (where the countertop extends beyond your vanity top) but only in particular thicknesses. Thick countertops could necessitate plumbing adjustments or a modification to your vanity choice to support additional weight. Concrete countertops over 2 inches thick are exceedingly heavy, according to decorative concrete experts the Concrete Network. The illusion of a multi-inch countertop is created by casting a drop-front edge, in which an additional piece of material of your desired thickness is cast at the front of the countertop. A similar edge (referred to as a built-up edge) is a possibility with stone and other materials. Metal countertops are composed of metal sheets wrapped over wood, so the overall countertop thickness and metal thickness are two different things. Because metal is wrapped, the edges on these countertops can be as thick as you desire. The measurement of metal thickness is the gauge: a lower (thicker) gauge translates to increased durability.

Another thing to consider when choosing your countertop thickness is vanity height, particularly if you are repurposing furniture, using an existing vanity or considering a vessel sink, since a thick countertop can boost your work surface substantially higher. Good design is about functionality as much as appearance. Though 29-32 inches used to be the standard vanity height, comfort height for tall folks can extend to 36 inches. The ADA specifies a maximum vanity height of 34 inches for accessible vanities with a minimum of 29 inches for knee clearance to allow wheelchair users to roll under, but some individuals may benefit from lower tops. it is helpful to mock up options on an existing surface to figure out your preference. Countertop thickness will have an impact on what edge profiles are available to you too.

Edge Profiles
There are dozens of countertop edge profiles, and some materials — stone, quartz, solid surface and recycled paper — will accept a highly detailed edge. Conversely, slate, porcelain, glass, wood and some of the recycled countertops have very limited edge options. Stick with what is recommended for the material to minimize the risk of edge chipping. Tile countertop edges can be constructed of the tile material using a v-cap or bullnose or be finished with a complementing strip of metal, wood or composite material. Originally, laminate came only in a flat edge sometimes banded in metal or a contrasting color like tile tops, but now decorative edges including bullnose and ogee are available. Stone and imitation stone countertops employed in modern bathrooms commonly have a straight, simple or rustically textured edge that highlights the material, but in traditional décor, stone edges may be highly stylized and follow the ornamental shapes of their antique vanities. Waterfall countertops — where the countertop surface extends down one or both sides to the floor — have found their way from the designer kitchen down the hallway into the bathroom.

Sink Options
The several options for bathroom sinks — top-mount (aka drop-in or self-rimming), undermount, integral and vessel — will interplay with your countertop material preferences. Some lighter (or thinner) countertop materials will require additional support if you plan on using a heavy sink that is not undermounted. Integral (or integrated) sinks — where the sink and countertop are made of the same material for a seamless, low-fuss look — are available in the composite materials, concrete, porcelain, glass and metal. You can actually get an integrated sink in some of the natural stones, but it is constructed separately out of a chunk of the material and made to look seamless with miter cuts. These stone sinks come at an enormous cost — more than the countertop — according to Keystone Granite & Tile, a stone supplier for cities in the Northeastern US . Keystone reminds us of two downsides of using this type of sink in stone, the first being the inherent sensitivities of the material. Though it may be relatively easy to keep a stone countertop in good shape, we expect to be able to treat our sinks with a bit less regard and this will not be the case with a natural stone sink. Second, as with all integral sinks, the sink and countertop must be treated as one entity for repair or replacement, which makes a problem with one far more expensive to remedy. Undermount sinks are an upscale option common in designer spaces where they are attractively paired with all varieties of countertop, including stone tops. The newer laminate countertops can accept an undermount sink, but it will always be a weak point for moisture damage. Vessel sinks can be used with any surface but are commonly seen atop understated countertops, allowing the character of the vessel to take the spotlight.

Surface Features and Integrated Backsplashes
Aside from sinks inclusions, glass, composite and concrete countertops can allow for highly customized surface features like decorative shaping and ledges, integrated soap dishes or drainboards. They may allow for the countertop and backsplash to be one seamless piece, as do porcelain and laminates. More often, if you are making use of the countertop material for the backsplash it is done in a separate piece. A modern look is the sheet backsplash, where the countertop material or a complementing material extends up the entire wall above the vanity.

Bathroom Countertop Maintenance

Bathroom countertop maintenance can include sealing, cleaning and (hopefully not) repairing. As we've learned, some materials can be largely ignored while others need to be sung to bed at night; some fare well by one durability measure but not another. For example, you can drop a hairdryer on granite and wind up picking plastic out of your hair, but use the wrong cleaner and face dull spots or stains. Glass is wonderfully easy to maintain — no sealing necessary and cleanable with just about anything — which almost makes up for the fact that it is impossible to repair. Engineered quartz is one of the most popular countertop materials available because it offers the look of stone without the upkeep. Choices you make for your countertop finishes and edge styles will impact your ability to DIY a repair too. Bottom line: It makes sense to consider the ease of maintenance in combination with the type of bathroom you are furnishing and the personalities of its occupants. You can be attentive to the need to keep product spills off the countertop, but it may not rank of high importance to your 5-year-old — or your spouse, for that matter. Ask your countertop supplier before purchase what the material requires in terms of maintenance and what options will be available should a repair be necessary.

Sealing, Oiling and Waxing
Many countertops require an initial application of sealant and then resealing on a regular basis. The rule is to reseal when you notice that water is no longer beading on the surface. Sealing prevents water, oil and chemicals from being absorbed by porous countertop surfaces. Stone countertops are porous to varying degrees and almost all will require an initial sealing. The denser stones of granite and quartzite may require resealing less often but many calcite-based countertops (limestone, travertine and marble) are heavily porous and can require resealing every six months. Slate is a mineral outlier, with high-quality slate dense enough to be left unsealed, and low-quality slate benefiting from the treatment. Soapstone prefers an optional application and several reapplications of mineral oil, which evenly oxidizes the surface to bring out the color and luster of the material.

Aside from the natural stones, wood, concrete, any recycled countertop containing concrete as well as paper countertops should be sealed using recommended products. A monthly wax or oil application on these surfaces will maintain the protection. In her book Design Ideas for Bathrooms, Susan Hillstrom, the former executive editor of House Beautiful Special Interest Publications, recommends using the same sealants on wood countertops as those used on the floor, including polyurethane.

Unglazed ceramic tile and natural stone tile can be very absorbent depending on both the composition and quality of the tile. These should be sealed according to manufacturer recommendations. Regardless of tile type, any cement-based grout should be sealed.

No sealing is necessary on high-quality slate, laminate, solid surface, quartz, porcelain or glass. Glazed ceramic tile, glazed and unglazed porcelain tile and glass tile do not require sealing either. No sealing needed for metal countertops, but if the patina bothers you, a weekly polish will keep it at bay.

Cleaning
A huge part of countertop care is being diligent about wiping up water and product spills immediately, no matter which countertop you choose. The fact is: a good purple hair dye will glamorize anything, even protected surfaces. You'll clean your countertop with products that are appropriate both for the base material and for the sealant (if relevant). And always use a microfiber cloth or nonabrasive sponge when cleaning because many surfaces are easily scratched by coarse scrubbers. This is particularly true of metal.

Most countertops are best cleaned with gentle dish soap and water. The notable exception to this cleaning method is slate, as hard water easily builds up on its variegated surface. Additionally, most countertops happily accept a pH-neutral cleaner. Stone cleaners are in this category, as abrasive or acidic cleansers will scratch and dull the finish of mineral surfaces, especially marble, travertine and limestone. Slate should be cleaned only with a neutral stone cleaner. Handmade ceramic tiles can have glazes that are susceptible to etching from acid-based cleaners and tile grout can be weakened this way, so a neutral cleanser is an ideal option for these materials as well.

It's important to avoid abrasive products for your countertop cleaning, but the less delicate surfaces of soapstone, solid surface and some glass can accept treatment with a general household cleaner. Similarly, though most countertops want you to avoid acidic or basic cleaners, distilled white vinegar can be used to clean some glass, unglazed tile and wood.

Many pH-neutral cleaners are disinfectants, agents that kill or inactivate bacteria and viruses on contact. Gentle soap and water, on the other hand, simply removes these microorganisms from the countertop surface so you can supplement these cleaning efforts with alcohol to disinfect. Many countertop materials — including granite, concrete, laminate and quartz — are easily disinfected by spraying 70% alcohol (in manufacturer-recommended dilutions) on the surface, allowing it to sit for 3 to 5 minutes and then wiping any residue off with a microfiber cloth.

Stains and Etching
We're avoiding acidic and basic cleaners for cleaning most of our countertop materials but the odd stain removal is another story. Stains in wood can often be buffed out using half a lemon sprinkled in salt. A baking soda paste can be used to remove laminate stains and occasionally oil-based stains on marble and granite but with great care. Miranda Silva and Gabriela Ulloa writing for Architectural Digest recommend spot-testing first to ensure the treatment won't affect the stone finish. Stains in metal can also be removed with a paste made of dish soap and baking soda.

Stone countertops — particularly the more porous limestone-based ones — are susceptible to etching from acidic products, which manifests as rings, stains and general dulling of the surface. If you accidently etch the surface, you'll need to drag out a more abrasive cleaner, buffing pad or sander in order to get through the sealant, clean the stone, sometimes repair it with mineral-appropriate epoxy or polishing paste then restore the seal when you're finished. Minor etching can be repaired by homeowners, but it isn't for the faint of heart and for anything significant you're better off calling in the pros. Treated glass countertops can also be etched and the fabricator should be consulted for the recommended method of repair.

Scratches
Though not as common a problem in the bathroom environment as a kitchen, softer countertops surfaces can develop scratches. If you do scratch the surface, wood and many of the stone materials (e.g., marble, travertine, limestone and soapstone) can accept polishing or a light sanding with fine grade sandpaper and reapplication of the sealer or oil. The through-body products of unglazed porcelain, solid surface and recycled paper as well as slate in a honed finish will also take this treatment, but it is nearly impossible to disguise a repair in the cleft and cascade finishes of slate because the act of repairing changes the surface character. Metal countertops are easily scratched, but thicker metal will withstand dings better and textured finishes disguise surface damage better. The same holds true of textured laminate, according to Consumer Reports. Use repair paste on scratches and dings for both metal and laminate. Glass and recycled glass repairs generally require a call to the fabricator.

Chips
With enough of an impact in the right (or wrong!) location, most countertops can chip, but it is very rare on many of the hardest and softest countertop materials — for example, granite, quartzite, quartz, porcelain, wood, solid surface and recycled paper. And through-body products are easier to repair than anything with a surface pattern or glaze. If you do manage to chip a stone countertop, color-matched epoxy or acrylic could come to the rescue, or buy one of the plethora of stone repair kits on the market. Similarly, when a piece of glass pops out of a recycled glass countertop or a concrete countertop gets an edge chip, it can be reattached or filled with epoxy-based adhesive or tinted filler. Chips in glazed tile often involve replacing the individual tile (so purchase extra) but if you're feeling crafty, it may be minimized with a dot of epoxy and matching paint, or even nail polish.

Cracks
Cracks are the most difficult of the countertop repairs for a homeowner to DIY and anything of scale warrants calling a professional. Hairline cracks can occur in most stones and concrete but can often be ignored, even adding to the character. Larger cracks in concrete can be attempted with color-matched caulk, epoxy and grout, but you're likely better off calling your fabricator.

Burns
Less common in the bathroom than in the kitchen, bathroom countertops can still be subjected to heat extremes via electric hair stylers. The through-body materials of natural stone, wood, porcelain and recycled paper will often accept the same treatment for burns as they do for scratches and dings — sanding, repairing, reapplying sealant. If you have a man-made product containing plastic (solid surface, laminate, some of the recycled materials), your options are limited, and a misplaced curling iron could simply ruin your day. Prized for their moisture- and stain-resistance, the most significant durability weakness of these surfaces is extreme heat.

Bathroom Countertop Prices

Countertops are generally priced by the square foot, occasionally by the linear foot and in some instances (particularly relevant to the bathroom because of its small size and often one-directional surface) you may just pay by the piece or slab. For frame of reference, the width of a typical bathroom vanity is generally anywhere from 24 inches (a small single) to 72 inches (a large double), with a depth from 17 to 24 inches. You'll add an inch or two minimum to each of these measurements for the overhang. To calculate your own vanity square footage, measure the width and depth by inches adding the desired overhang to each measurement, multiple these two numbers and then divide by 144. In our vanity extremes, a small (24 x 17 inch) vanity would translate to roughly 3 feet of material, with more than 13 feet needed for a large (72 x 24 inch) vanity. Some stone yards will have a minimum square footage for purchase.

Price Impacts
Quite a bit that goes into countertop pricing. For natural stone, where the material is sourced can be much of what determines the cost, reflecting to varying degrees the quality of that region's mineral, its scarcity as well as its mining, import and transport costs. But if you decide on a premium material, don't expect a low price point or even seek one; purchase from a trusted supplier. Especially true of the natural stones, disreputable companies offer inferior products to capitalize on a material's popularity by charging less but these countertops can be more susceptible to damage than their high-quality cousins. For example, the durability and nonabsorbancy of slate are compromised in low-cost versions (often lighter in color) that can chip, flake and break. To increase visual appeal, some stones may even be artificially dyed, which can wear off, bleed or change color over time.

Fabrication outlays are another issue. When you are buying a slab, it doesn't magically become a countertop in your bathroom. Aside from being cut or formed to size, the initial sealing for stone, cut-outs for faucets and sinks, adding a backsplash or an integrated sink as well as all the style options we mentioned (surface finishes and textures, thicknesses and edge profiles) could have price tags attached. In her book Design Ideas for Bathrooms, Susan Hillstrom points out that though concrete is one of the least expensive raw materials, a concrete countertop can be as pricey as a natural stone surface, reflecting fabrication costs almost entirely. Prefabricated countertops are often less expensive because they can be mass-produced.

Finally, installation can impact your final price tag significantly — $10 to $30 per square foot, according to HomeAdvisor averages. And you could be charged more for heavier or more delicate materials and because the countertop is being installed in a small space. The last thing you should do, however, is select a premium countertop material and then skimp on installation. If you make your purchase from a trusted source and employ professional installers, it will ensure your investment lives up to its capabilities, with the converse also being true: Poorly installed countertops will be more prone to damage and breakage.

Average Pricing of Countertop Materials

Even the most expensive countertop materials can often be found at lower price points, but you may be making concessions on quality. Similarly, you can pay more for an inexpensive material like laminate and benefit from a more desirable look and better durability. Tile can often be purchased inexpensively but some handmade tile — especially interestingly shaped varieties — can be incredibly pricey, with equivalently high installation costs for the latter.

Ways to Save
You've learned about the multitude of attractive options for a vanity top, determined your household's requirements for durability and maintenance and established your budget. Here are a few ways to save on your purchase:

• Utilize standard vanity sizes, sinks and faucets to save on fabrication and installation costs.
• Make concessions on some of the style options such as decorative finishes and intricate edge profiles.
• If you have your heart set on an expensive stone, reduce the size of the vanity to use a remnant or purchase a large-format stone tile instead of a slab. Both can cost considerably less.

Most important, start shopping for this pricey component of your remodel early — before you are bound to a color or design scheme with your other bathroom selections. If you haven't committed to a must-have color, size or style for your surface, you'll be able to avail of more supplier deals or specials.