Upcycle Reclaimed Doors Into a Custom Storage Cabinet

On a flat work surface, lay both sidepieces of cabinet side-by-side and clamp together. Starting from the top measure and mark desired placement of shelves. Mark top and bottom edge of shelf (which is ¾” thick.) Keep in mind the face frame and how shelves will be visible though glass doors. Make corresponding marks on other sidepiece. Use a straight edge to connect marks, clearly showing where shelves and supports will be installed.

On a flat work surface, lay both sidepieces of cabinet side-by-side and clamp together. Starting from the top measure and mark desired placement of shelves. Mark top and bottom edge of shelf (which is ¾” thick.) Keep in mind the face frame and how shelves will be visible though glass doors. Make corresponding marks on other sidepiece. Use a straight edge to connect marks, clearly showing where shelves and supports will be installed.

Assemble top and sides of face frame with screws from the backside, using a pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws. Lay doors, one at a time, inside face frame and attach to frame with hinges, making sure front of the door sits flush with face frame. Insert center of face frame between doors and attached from back with pocket hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Assemble top and sides of face frame with screws from the backside, using a pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws. Lay doors, one at a time, inside face frame and attach to frame with hinges, making sure front of the door sits flush with face frame. Insert center of face frame between doors and attached from back with pocket hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Assemble top and sides of face frame with screws from the backside, using a pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws. Lay doors, one at a time, inside face frame and attach to frame with hinges, making sure front of the door sits flush with face frame. Insert center of face frame between doors and attached from back with pocket hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Assemble top and sides of face frame with screws from the backside, using a pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws. Lay doors, one at a time, inside face frame and attach to frame with hinges, making sure front of the door sits flush with face frame. Insert center of face frame between doors and attached from back with pocket hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Attach one side of cabinet with pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws to back side of face frame. Using 3” wood screws, screw 4 x 4” wood block from front and side where two boards meet. This will add stability and give a place to attach cabinet feet. Screws will be hidden with trim. Repeat on second side.

Attach one side of cabinet with pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws to back side of face frame. Using 3” wood screws, screw 4 x 4” wood block from front and side where two boards meet. This will add stability and give a place to attach cabinet feet. Screws will be hidden with trim. Repeat on second side.

Attach one side of cabinet with pocket-hole jig and 1-1/4” wood screws to back side of face frame. Using 3” wood screws, screw 4 x 4” wood block from front and side where two boards meet. This will add stability and give a place to attach cabinet feet. Screws will be hidden with trim. Repeat on second side.

Position one 4 x 4 x 3” block on inside of front corner, so it is flush with bottom. Insert 3” wood screws through side and front of cabinet into block. Repeat on four other corners. Since back of cabinet is not on at this step, leave 3/4” space for back of cabinet. Wood screws will be hidden with trim. Screw tulip bun feet into wood blocks.

Position one 4 x 4 x 3” block on inside of front corner, so it is flush with bottom. Insert 3” wood screws through side and front of cabinet into block. Repeat on four other corners. Since back of cabinet is not on at this step, leave 3/4” space for back of cabinet. Wood screws will be hidden with trim. Screw tulip bun feet into wood blocks.

Cut 1 x 2” boards to width of shelves. Tack to the front of each shelf with 1-1/4” brads to cover raw plywood edge. Position shelves on shelf supports and nail into place with brads. Bottom shelf can be full width and depth of cabinet and does not require trim.

Cut 1 x 2” boards to width of shelves. Tack to the front of each shelf with 1-1/4” brads to cover raw plywood edge. Position shelves on shelf supports and nail into place with brads. Bottom shelf can be full width and depth of cabinet and does not require trim.

Measure, mark and cut tongue and groove bead board planks to size. Tack onto back through shelves, top and bottom of cabinet with 1-1/4” brads. Insert 3” wood screws through back into bottom wood blocks (foot supports) for additional support.

With brad nails (1-1/4” or 3/4” depending on size of trim), tack in 1 x 4” boards, cut to size, into top and bottom of cabinet. Add decorative molding as desired, cutting to size of a miter saw. Paint, stain or finish as desired.

With brad nails (1-1/4” or 3/4” depending on size of trim), tack in 1 x 4” boards, cut to size, into top and bottom of cabinet. Add decorative molding as desired, cutting to size of a miter saw. Paint, stain or finish as desired.

Many beautiful antique doors and windows are orphaned from their original cabinetry, furniture pieces or homes. There are thousands of ways to repurpose them decoratively, but this project shows how to make them functional again as doors to a cabinet.