Prepare to have your mind blown with Tuome's combination of ambiance, food and a heavy infusion of hip at this stealth spot that has garnered raves from Zagat, The New York Times and Eater. Tuome is fine dining with an East Village rock 'n' roll edge and a playlist of Tom Petty, Zeppelin and the Stones that makes it feel like a party at your coolest friend’s apartment.
Laid-back but on-his-game accountant-turned-chef Thomas Chen is all about white-table touches but with a hip, unpretentious vibe and a memorable mix of food, blending Chinese and contemporary American influences. The servers know their stuff but seem more like the coolest people in your yoga class than the typical overexplanatory foodie fetishists.
Like so much at this creative, intimate spot, disadvantages become advantages: The lack of a liquor license doesn’t keep Tuome from concocting some of the most incredible wine and sake-based cocktails around. Fire in the Sky rivals any mixology-centric bar’s craft cocktail star with its spicy mix of sake, Thai chili and yuzu juice for the perfect balance of spice and sweetness.
You’ll want to start with the kind of appetizer that quickly knocks that chip off your shoulder about having tried every variation of deviled eggs (shown here) under the sun. Chen’s egg white is panko-coated and deep-fried, full of umami and not to be missed. A bowl of sautéed eggplant elevates this ubiquitous veg to new heights, and octopus served with a kind of brown butter and potato mousse siphoned out tableside is an opportunity to congratulate Chen for his work in person. An Asian-infused comfort dish, the chicken with porridge in a savory berth of rice is congee-meets-risotto heaven.
There’s only one dessert on offer (sweets are not Chen’s thing): Chinese beignets. I highly recommend you go for it even if dessert is not your thing. This is a supremely decadent take on beignets with a goat’s milk caramel sauce served in a squeeze bottle to make you master of your own portion and a smear of tart citron marmalade to cut the milky sugar rush.