Our Favorite Trees for Containers

The landscapers' maxim, "The right tree in the right place" — and, we might add, the right conditions — goes for potted trees, as well.

First, the tree. Whether they're deciduous or evergreen, producing fruit or merely looking nice on your patio or in your home, many container-suitable trees have dwarf varieties or are naturally small, so choose accordingly. At any rate, unless you’re growing a bonsai tree, you need a container large enough to accommodate the mature size of the tree. A large, heavy pot will be best for a tree that will remain in place all year. If it’s a tree that will be moving seasonally between indoors and out, you will want to consider a lighter weight container. And whatever the case, make sure the pot’s bottom has holes for drainage.

A tree — such as the crape myrtle pictured — is a long-term investment, so don’t skimp on the soil. Use a good potting mix that holds sufficient moisture but that also drains well. Do not use soil from the garden. While it works for in-ground planting, garden soil may not drain well enough in a container, and there likely will be weeds, insects or diseases in the soil. Refresh the container in spring by removing some of the top layer of potting mix and replacing it with new. A slow-release fertilizer, applied following package directions, provides the needed nutrients.

Click through to find a dozen ideas for trees that can grow in containers, and what they need to thrive.

In many landscape designs, the Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) has a starring role. A well-chosen dwarf variety can play a part in a patio or balcony garden as well.

Light: Full sun to part shade, depending on the variety.

Size: Dwarf Japanese maples typically range from 6 to 10 feet at maximum height.

Hardiness: These are deciduous trees, so they’ll lose their leaves in winter. But a well-chosen tree (one that thrives in your hardiness zone) should be fine if it remains outdoors in its container.

Best Care Practices: Give the roots plenty of room to grow by planting in a container at least twice as wide as the root ball. Provide consistent moisture, but don’t overwater the tree. Fertilize in spring with a liquid solution at half-strength. Remove dead or dying branches; otherwise, pruning is usually not necessary.

Popular varieties: 'Crimson Queen' (Zones 5-8) has finely cut dark crimson leaves in summer; 'Rhode Island Red' (Zones 5-9) has bright red foliage in spring, orange tones by fall, and red stems that add color to a bare landscape in winter; 'Viridis' has bright green leaves in summer, and autumn leaves turn crimson and gold.

If you’re in certain parts of Florida, Arizona, Texas or California, you can grow lemons, limes and other citrus trees (such as tangerine, pictured) in your backyard. The rest of us must plant them in pots so we can bring them in out of the cold when temperatures plunge.

Light: All citrus varieties are bright light/full sun trees.

Size: Dwarf varieties are best for containers. Even these trees, which might mature at 6-12 feet in a suitable climate outdoors, can be kept at a smaller height in a pot.

Hardiness: Citrus trees are damaged by freezing weather so they are indoors-in-winter plants in most of the US.

Best Care Practices: Start with a 10- to 12-inch diameter container, knowing that you’ll need to re-pot into a larger container later for long-term growth. Citrus trees need well-drained soil; commercial potting mix is fine as long as the soil is light enough to drain water well. Fertilize in spring. A granular plant food formulated specifically for citrus is the best choice. Watch for pests such as mealybugs, aphids and scale, and treat affected plants as soon as you discover them.

Varieties: 'Improved Meyer Lemon' fruits are generally smaller, rounder, slightly sweeter and less acidic that typical supermarket lemons. 'Lisbon' lemon tree produces small to medium size fruit that has a tarter, more acidic flavor. 'Kaffir' lime fruit has distinctive green, bumpy skin and leaves that are segmented, with each resembling two attached leaves. The leaves are used in many Asian dishes. 'Bearss' lime (aka Persian lime) is a common variety that bears seedless fruit.

Once you’ve mastered lemons and limes, it's easy to add another, less common citrus to your container-tree collection. Kumquat’s white flowers in spring produce small, sweet fruit that ripens into winter.

Light: Full sun is a must. You likely will need to provide supplemental lighting indoors.

Size: This broadleaf evergreen tree (Citrus japonica) is naturally on the smaller size, and varieties grown on dwarfing rootstock may grow 3 to 6 feet.

Hardiness: Kumquat tends to be more hardy than other citrus, but it’s still an indoors-in-winter tree everywhere except USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and 10.

Best Care Practices: Select a container slightly larger than the plant’s root ball and expect to re-pot the tree as it grows larger. Use a good potting mix that drains well; water regularly but don’t overwater because kumquat will suffer if the soil stays soggy. Fertilize with a product formulated for citrus, starting in the spring. The tree will benefit from being outdoors in summer, where bees can pollinate the flowers. Indoors, you can hand-pollinate using a soft brush.

Varieties: Kumquat fruit can be eaten unpeeled. C. japonica 'Nagami' is a thornless variety that produces deep orange, oval fruit; 'Meiwa' fruit is round and has sweeter pulp; 'Marumi' is slightly thorny, with round fruit that is more acidic.

Of all the fruit trees you could grow in a pot, fig (Ficus carica) might be the most unexpected, and dwarf varieties can be a good fit for your patio plans. Use the figs in desserts or jellies, or snack on them fresh from the tree.

Light: Fig trees grow best in full sun.

Size: Under the best conditions, a dwarf fig variety may top out at 6 to 8 feet.

Hardiness: In warmer zones (USDA Zones 8-10), fig trees are fine in a container outdoors; where winters are colder, you will likely need to move the plant to a protected area. Some varieties are hardier than others while some may die back to the soil in winter and resprout the following spring, so keep that in mind when you choose a fig tree for a container. Tip: Provide wheels for your fig’s container to make it easier to move when necessary.

Best Care Practices: Start with a big-enough pot that will offer space for the roots to grow. Fig trees need consistent moisture, so don’t allow it to dry out too often. Boost growth and production with a monthly application of compost tea or other mild liquid fertilizer. The tree can be pruned back to limit its growth. If you choose to leave it out in the cold winter, protect the roots with a thick layer of mulch.

Varieties: 'Brown Turkey' fruits have purplish skin and is fairly cold-hardy; 'Celeste' is a widely grown variety with bronze/violet skin, and is also good (with winter protection) for colder climates; 'Chicago Hardy' may be the best choice for colder climates (hardy in USDA Zones 6-10), and usually bears its dark, sweet fruit within two years.

Everywhere except tropical USDA Hardiness Zones 10-12, we think of Ficus benjamina as a houseplant. It’s a stately tree indoors, and when the weather is warm enough, weeping fig can help dress up your patio or balcony, as well.

Light: Bright, indirect light is best. Too much time in full sun will scorch the leaves.

Size: As a houseplant, weeping fig generally tops out at about 6 feet.

Hardiness: Weeping fig must come indoors when things start to cool down. Fifty-five degrees is generally its limit. Temperatures below that could harm the tree.

Best Care Practices: Plant in good, well-drained potting mix. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season (spring and summer). Water when the soil has dried out slightly and don’t overwater. Weeping fig has a tendency to drop its leaves when it’s moved from one environment to another, so try to acclimate it slowly between indoors and out in spring, and when moving it back indoors in fall.

More Indoor Trees Outdoors: These popular houseplants can also spend summer outdoors under the right conditions: Rubber tree (F. elastica) will do well in a shady area. Umbrella tree (Schefflera) can grow 6 feet tall — or taller — and prefers bright, indirect light. A variety of potted palms grow tall enough to be as dramatic outdoors as in: Kentia palm (Howea forsteriana), Majesty palm (Ravenea revularis) and Lady palm (Rhapsis excelsa) are a few choices.

Most of us should start with the assumption that the evergreen, container-grown olive tree is decorative and not usually for producing a big crop of olives. Still, it can add a Mediterranean vibe to a patio during warm weather. And you could eventually harvest olives with the right variety under the right conditions.

Light: Olive trees need full sun — six to eight hours a day.

Size: The mature height of dwarf varieties is generally 8-10 feet.

Hardiness: Hardy in USDA Zones 8-10; anywhere else, the tree must spend the winter indoors.

Best Care Practices: Good drainage is paramount for olive trees in containers. Experts recommend a potting mix made specifically for olive trees, or a mix that includes small rocks or perlite. A porous container, which dries out more quickly than plastic, is best. Check before watering and only water if the top few inches of soil is completely dry. Prune in spring to maintain the desired shape and size.

Varieties: There are fruiting and non-fruiting varieties of evergreen dwarf olive trees. Among the popular choices: Olea europaea 'Montra', a non-fruiting tree with inconspicuous blooms; O. europaea 'Arbequina' is a fruiting tree that opens creamy white flowers in spring and is said to be a bit more cold hardy; 'Koroneiki' is a fruiting variety with an upright, spreading habit that is said to be a very hardy, long-lived tree.

These reliable evergreens can look great in all seasons in a container, either alone or as the anchor in a mixed planting paired with other plants that grow in the same conditions.

Light: Full sun to part shade, depending on the species.

Size: Dwarf varieties are bred to stay smaller than their full-size counterparts. A dwarf conifer may only reach a height of 6 feet at maturity.

Hardiness: Most conifers can withstand cold winters outdoors. Keep in mind that the tree's roots are more susceptible to freezes in the pot than in the ground.

Best Care Practices: Choose a container large enough to give roots room to grow; even so, you likely will need to move it to a larger pot in a few years. Use a potting mix that drains well, and water enough to keep the soil moist, but not wet. A slow-release fertilizer applied in spring can replenish needed nutrients.

Varieties: Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica', pictured) has dense, bright green foliage and will grow to about 4 feet tall; dwarf Mugo pine (Pinus mugo) is a slow-growing tree with dense branches and dark green needles; dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecypa obtuse) 'Nana Gracilis' is a slow-growing tree that has feathery, dark green foliage in a pyramidal form.

Arbovitae (Thuga) is the evergreen tree or shrub with dense foliage growing in distinctive flat, fan-shape sprays. Grown in a container, it can be an all-year feature on a deck or patio.

Light: Full sun to part shade.

Size: Some arborvitae can grow quite large in the ground. For container planting, select one of the smaller varieties.

Hardiness: Arborvitae is a year-round trouper. Where winters are consistently cold in Zone 5 and colder, it may be a good idea to move the container to a more protected spot, add insulation around the pot or take other protective measures.

Best Care Practices: Choose a container with good drainage large enough to accommodate the tree's roots as it grows, and plant in good quality potting mix. Add a layer of mulch to keep the soil from drying out too quickly, and water enough to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Apply a slow-release fertilizer in spring.

Varieties: The dwarf Thuga orientalis 'Nana Aurea' has golden-yellow foliage and grows upright to about 5 feet tall. Thuga occidentalis 'Golden Globe', native to North America and also with distinctive golden foliage, is more rounded. T. occidentalis 'Emerald Green' has a taller, pyramidal shape, grows quickly and can get quite large, but it can be pruned to keep it at the desired size.

Crape myrtle trees — multi-stemmed or trained into typical tree form — are a flowering wonder throughout much of the US. Smaller varieties grown in containers can bring their summer colors to a sunny deck or patio.

Light: Full sun for best flowering.

Size: Crape myrtles that are 2 to 5 feet tall are dwarf; varieties that are considered short can grow 6 to 10 feet tall. Both are suitable for growing in containers.

Hardiness: In the ground, crape myrtles are generally hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 6–9, and some varieties are hardier than others. Keep in mind that trees in containers may be damaged more easily by a freeze. The trees are dormant in winter.

Best Care Practices: Use a good quality outdoor potting mix and a container that is large enough to allow the roots to grow. Provide water regularly, especially during the hottest summer months. Fertilize in spring with a product formulated for flowering trees and shrubs. In areas where freezing weather is common, plan to bring the less-hardy crape myrtle varieties into a dark, cool place, and water it every three or four weeks. Bring it back out when the weather is warm again.

Varieties: Lagerstroemia indica 'Pokomoke' is a mounding, cold-hardy dwarf crape myrtle with pink flowers and bronze-red fall foliage; 'Acoma' is a short, arching variety with repeat-blooming white flowers; 'Red Rooster' is a cold-hardy variety whose foliage is maroon-red when it emerges in spring and it blooms with bright red flowers.

Laurus nobilis — commonly known as bay laurel or sweet bay — is the source of the bay leaves that flavor many savory dishes. The evergreen tree, growing in a container on your deck or patio in warm weather or indoors when it's cold, can provide this kitchen staple all year.

Light: Full sun or partial shade.

Size: Where bay laurel grows in the wild, it can be quite large. But in a container, it grows only as large as the container will allow — 3 or 4 feet tall, generally, or to the desired size maintained by pruning.

Hardiness: Bay laurel is hardy only to USDA Zone 7; in colder climates, the tree must spend the winter indoors.

Best Care Practices: Select a suitable container that will accommodate the tree with room for root growth. Plant the tree in a good potting mix that drains well. Check the soil before watering and water when the top couple of inches of soil is dry. Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer in spring. This plant is especially attractive when clipped to maintain a tree form or topiary.

Varieties + Notes: L. nobilis 'Undulata' has wavy leaf edges; 'Aurea' grows new leaves that are bright yellow.

While bay leaves are used to flavor foods in cooking, you should take care to remove the leaves before serving. The leaves are sharp and can leave cuts in the mouth and digestive tract. Note, too, that bay leaves are toxic to dogs and cats. Of historical interest: The leaves of Laurus nobilis were used by the ancient Romans and Greeks to form wreaths to crown winners of sporting events

Pomegranate's natural growth habit is as a deciduous shrub but it can be pruned to tree shape. In fact, pomegranate is among the trees that are widely appreciated by bonsai enthusiasts.

Light: Pomegranate grows best with at least six hours of full sun a day.

Size: A pomegranate tree can grow quite large, but there are dwarf varieties and they can be pruned to maintain the desired size.

Hardiness: Pomegranate is hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 7; colder zones require a move to a protected area in winter.

Best Care Practices: Use a large pot with excellent drainage and a good potting mix that drains well. Containers dry out more quickly, so be sure to water consistently. Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring or use liquid fertilizer at half-strength throughout the growing season.

Varieties: Dwarf varieties of Punica granatum include 'Red Silk', which reaches a height of 6 to 8 feet when it's mature; 'Nana' is a dwarf variety with orange flowers. 'Texas Pink' is an upright tree that can be pruned to maintain desired size.