Marfa, Texas: A Masterpiece in the Middle of Nowhere

More than a decade ago, I read about an unexpected and logistically complex art installation in a place called Marfa, Texas: a free-standing real-life replica of a luxury brand storefront literally in the middle of nowhere ... as in, the nearest city was almost four hours away. Over the years, I'd research what a trip to Marfa would entail, but then I'd give up when I realized it requires a three-hour flight (to El Paso) on top of a three-and-a-half-hour drive with nowhere to stop in between. And then every few months I'd get the itch to go to Marfa all over again. Now that I've been there, I can't wait to get back.

Roughly one half hour before reaching Marfa, you'll pass through the West Texas town of Valentine where artist John Cerney's "Giant Marfa" installation pays homage to the 1956 Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean film "Giant" which was filmed in the same exact spot. Travel tip: Be sure to look out for it on your left as you're headed in from El Paso. It's surprisingly easy to miss when you're zipping down the highway facing the camouflaged backsides of the structures, but once you pull over and see it all from the front, its grandeur stops you in your tracks.

As you step out of your vehicle, you'll find yourself drawn to classic 1950s music blaring from hidden speakers just beyond the fence. Look more closely and you'll discover that artist John Cerney created these seemingly ornate structures by simply using basic plywood, including the mansion facade, a director in a director's chair and a grip handling lighting equipment.

Just a short distance from "Giant Marfa" is the iconic Little Reata signage seen in the Academy Award winning film. Little Reata is the name of the ranch owned by James Dean's character in "Giant," Jett Rink.

Part of the unique Marfa experience is taking in all of the old buildings in disrepair along the way in from Valentine. Marfa was established in 1881 as a water stop to service the railroad and many of its original structures are still standing. Over the years, many roadside buildings were abandoned and have started to deteriorate, adding a ghost town vibe that's equal parts eerie and beautiful.

Godbold Feed Company sits on the south south of Marfa and was previously used for the grocery distribution. It's currently in the process of being redeveloped as a distillery.

Opened in 1930, Marfa's El Paisano Hotel was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. In addition to being one of the most architecturally significant buildings in town, it also housed the cast and crew of the 1956 movie "Giant" during its six weeks of production.

One of the most photogenic and vintage architectural works in downtown Marfa is The Palace Theater. Built in 1905 as an opera house, it was given a facelift in the 1930s with art deco style and has been closed since 1970.

Throughout downtown Marfa, tourists will find that many of the old signage is still intact and constantly updated with phrases and slogans which make for excellent social media moments.

One of the most visited boutiques in Marfa for one-of-a-kind finds is Wrong Store. Relocated in 2019 to 110 N. Highland, step inside to discover hot pink floors, folk art, large format photography, handmade pottery and a kaleidoscope of color.

With a population largely made up of artists, the exteriors of Marfa homes definitely take risks that pay off visually. Similar to the hot pink seen on the floors of Wrong Store, this ranch house near downtown Marfa is painted in a bold shade of hot pink.

The Chinati Foundation was named after the Chinati mountains which sit nearby to downtown Marfa. It sits on an abandoned army base which artist Donald Judd starting to purchase in the late 1970s. Now, most of the old dilapidated buildings have been reworked to accommodate permanent art installations and temporary exhibits.

Between 1980 and 1984, iconic artist Donald Judd completed 15 concrete structures which were cast and assembled on site. These run along the border of what's known as the Chinati Foundation.

Donald Judd's concrete works offer a rigid juxtaposition against the free-flowing grasses of the Chihuahuan Desert.

Located at 300 Highland Street, the Presidio County Courthouse is likely to be what many people refer to as "the big pink building in Marfa." Known for its Italianite architecture, it was built in 1886 by architect Alfred Giles.

Known for its white exterior and adobe construction, the Lone Star Marquee building in downtown Marfa is located in close proximity to the Chinati Foundation headquarters in town and Wrong Store.