Building a Pool Table

3. For the top bun, cut and glue three 3/4" 10"-wide squares, into a block. Clamp and let dry. Cut a circle out of the block (10" diameter). With a router and a lathe, form a convex edge on the bun. For the bottom bun, follow the same process, but use (3) 3/4" 7" squares, and form a concave edge on the bun. Sand as necessary. Glue and nail everything into place. Repeat process for all legs.

4. To create the tapered sides, cut four 6’6" x 13" MDF pieces, following the angle of the legs. Cut the 2"-wide molding out of two of the four pieces. The molding then goes over the full MDF pieces. Repeat the process for the ends, but use 4’ x 13" pieces, and adjust measurements accordingly. Apply oak strips as step #2 describes. Glue and nail into place.

5. Once the sides are together, glue and nail 1" MDF strips into the inside edge of each corner.

6. On one of the longer sides of the table, centered, cut out a 37" x 3" rectangle in preparation for the ball slot. This removed portion will become the back wall of the ball slot, set inside the table. For the outside, cut a rectangle frame from oak strips: the topmost strip is 1"-wide, and about a half inch beyond either side of the rectangular hole; the sides is 1/2" wide and the height of the hole; the bottom protrudes about 2" and slopes up to hold the balls. Router the edges for style. The front-most edge will be ½" thick. Glue and nail into place.

7. For support, add 2x4s across the length of the bottom of the table.

8. With the ball rack on your right, with a hole saw, drill four 1.5"-wide holes spaced 1" apart in the short end of the table, and 3" above the bottom molding.

9. Each hole has a 3-sided rectangular frame inside the table to hold the cues. The sides are 3" wide, and about 60" long, and are cut out of 3/4" MDF. Glue and nail the sides into place, and inside the table surrounding each hole accordingly.

10. Cut a 3"-high, 12"-wide rectangle (MDF) 2" above the holes for the cues. At the bottom edge of this hole, you will nail and glue in a 9"-long, 14"-wide platform for the triangle to sit. To hold the two angled sides of the triangle, nail snugly between these 2 pieces.

11. Cut four L-shaped pieces (about 3" x 3") of 3/4" oak to act as guides for each position on the corners. Find consistent leg positions, and then screw in the guides so the legs always find their place. Sand everything lightly using sandpaper and an orbital sander.

12. Cut a 3/4" sheet of MDF to fit the top of the table using a circular saw. However, it will extend 6" on each side (for the rail and bumper). Cut six holes into the MDF (four corners, two at centers of long sides) at 4-7/8" and shaped in a half-circle, using a jigsaw. The overall angle of the holes is 90 degrees, to accommodate the rails. Create a template for a corner pocket and a middle pocket, and trace it repeatedly. Router the inside edge of each pocket to 1/4" for a lip for the balls.

13. The rails are made from walnut planks. Each rail portion is triple-segmented to simulate a curve going in toward the table. The top rail piece is 2-3/4" wide, the angled piece is 1.5", and the vertical piece is 4" to 5". An additional inner piece (about 1" square on the end) that will hide under the rails will help in attaching the rails to the tabletop. There will be six rail segments, two of the same (the ends) and four of the same (the sides) (about 3’ for each). Attach the rails using a biscuit joiner and glue. Clamp them and set to dry.

14. Flip the MDF table top over, and form a honeycomb-pattern with oak, that contains 10" squares. Center this pattern on the MDF. This will act as support for the table, and will help fit it in smoothly.

15. Primer the exterior as a basecoat, minus the rails and the tabletop.

16. Unclamp the dried rails. Smooth out the curve with a manual saw, planers, and a router. Then use an orbital sander. Cut the rails into their segments, to fit between the holes. Begin to drill holes to accept the bolts of the pockets inside each pocket hole (12 holes in total). Build a jig for consistency, using a drill press for the holes. Try a dry fit of the rails and the pockets, and trim or sand as necessary.

17. Disassemble any joining rails, rub rich brown furniture wax on the rails, and paint the bottom of the table (legs and base) with dark brown latex paint.

18. Cut with a razor and stretch the red felt over the table top, smoothing it as you go, and spray glue it into place. Staple it around the sides for extra support.

19. Begin to assemble the rails and pockets, working your way around the perimeter. Work in small segments. Use the pocket bolts, and then screw the pockets up from the bottom, until they are snug. Attach the rails and pockets to the table with spray glue and nails.

20. Cut the rubber bumpers to fit between the holes and stretch red felt over them, glue and staple them, and then spray glue them into place on the table inside edge.

21. At the routered edges and inside edges of the bottom painted portion of the table, cut and apply strips of white paper tape, which has been spray painted gold.