Materials Needed:

• 1" x 8" board, 36" long (2)
• 1" x 8" board, 24" long (4)
• 1" x 8" board, 9-3/4" long (1)
• crown molding, 25-1/2" long (1)
• crown molding, 7-1/4" long (2)
• base molding, 25-1/2" long (1)
• base molding, 7-1/4" long (2)
• sheet of beadboard, 25-1/2" x 36" (1)
• 1" x 2" board, 23" wide (1)
• compound miter saw or miter box with hand saw
• measuring tape or ruler
• level

• hammer
• small nails
• drill
• 20 wood screws, 1-1/4"
• wood filler
• putty knife
• sandpaper
• pencil
• 2-1/2" sash brush
• primer
• latex paint
• "L" bracket

Mark Shelf Layout

Lay both side pieces flat on a table with insides facing up. Using the diagram as guide, make pencil marks on both pieces of wood where shelves will be attached. Tip: If a power saw is unavailable, bring the lumber list to a local hardware store and have shelves cut there.

Attach Shelves to Sides

Use diagram as a guide and loosely assemble the cabinet on a flat surface. Working top to bottom, line up shelf edges perfectly with pencil marks. The bottom shelf should be positioned two inches from the bottom of length pieces to leave room for the installation cleat. This 2-inch gap will be covered by base molding. Holding shelf firmly in one hand, drill pilot holes. Drive screws through pilot holes until shelf is tight against side. Repeat on opposite side and until all four shelf-length pieces are securely fastened to sides. If vertical piece is desired on the top shelf, center a piece of wood and attach with nails. Tip: Use woodworking clamp to hold sides and shelf snugly together.

Attach Beadboard Backing

Position shelving unit face down on flat surface. With the lines on the beadboard running top to bottom, lay the beadboard face down on the shelving unit. Align the edges of the beadboard with the edges of shelving unit, and tack in place with nails.

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