Joe Sladky's Quilt Frame

Figure A

* rods should be 10-inches longer than the quilt backing is wide (figure A)

Steps 1-5, the first rod will be removable — loosening the bolts allows the quilt top to be rolled up. Step #6, the second rod will be clamped — the clamped rod allows the tension to be adjusted on the quilt top.

Steps:

1. Drill a small hole for the hanger bolt. To center the bolt, measure 1-3/4-inch in and 3/4-inch along the side.

2. Drill a hole in the sawhorse edge 1/2-inch deep using a 3/16-inch drill bit for a 1/4-inch screw.

3. Screw the hanger bolts in place with vise grips.

Figure B

4. Position the bolted (first) rod flush with the sawhorse and mark the guide holes (figure B). Drill through.

5. Slide the first rod onto the hanger bolts. Secure in place with a fender washer and a wing nut.

6. No holes or drilling is required for the second rod, just secure with clamps.

7. Sand before painting or staining the quilt rack.

Using the Rack

1. Secure the quilt backing to the second rod with flat-headed tacks.

Figure C

2. Remove the wing nuts and roll the quilt top around the bolted (first) rod (figure C)

3. Tweak the tension on the quilt top by adjusting the clamps on the rod.

Alex Quilt Frame Tips
To protect the quilt fabric, Alex pins her quilt top to a fabric sleeve verses pining directly to the wood rods. Here’s how:

Figure E

• Stitch a tube/sleeve of cotton and attach it to the rod with either double stick carpet tape (figure E) or glue the sleeve onto the rod with a glue gun.

• Pin the quilt top directly to the cotton tube/sleeve and you’re ready to quilt.