Build a Craftsman Dining Table

Get step-by-step instructions for building a Craftsman dining table from a reclaimed door.

Turn an old door into the focal point of your dining room with this table project.



From: Design on a Dime

Materials and Tools:

reclaimed door
table saw
four reclaimed 2-by-4-inch boards
biscuit joiner
wood glue
rachet straps
1 sheet of inch-thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF)
water-based stain (walnut)
1 reclaimed 2-by-6-inch board
screw gun
rubber mallet or wrapped hammer
weenie roller (paint roller with a small tubular pad attachment resembling the size and shape of a hotdog; can also use a standard paint roller)
water-based polyurethane
rags (to apply stain and to wrap the hammerhead)
1 sheet of 1/8-inch luan plywood (luan is a wood-grain veneer)
2-inch maple edge banding
miter saw




From: Design on a Dime

1. Cut the door to the desired size with a table saw. With a miter saw, cut 45-degree-angled corners on the edges of the 2-by-4s and attach around the perimeter of the door using a biscuit joiner and glue. Secure all four sides with glue and ratchet straps until glue dries.

2. Cut one table leg out of MDF with the jigsaw. Use it as a template to cut the remaining legs from MDF with a router as well as cutting veneers from luan. Note: Cut twice as many legs as needed to double the thickness of the leg from 1 inch to 2 inches.



From: Design on a Dime

3. Double the mass of each leg by adhering two carved legs with wood glue, and secure with a nail gun. Using wood glue and a couple of nails, attach luan veneers to the outer sides of the MDF legs to give them a wood-grain appearance. Finish by ironing on the 2-inch edge banding. (The edge banding is pre-coated with adhesive on one side.)

4. Use a rag to stain the legs with water-based stain, according to the manufacturer's directions. Wipe away any excess.



From: Design on a Dime

5. Use the miter saw to cut down and stain a 2-by-6-inch piece of reclaimed wood to use as a crossbeam. To assemble the table, screw two legs onto the crossbeam, with the underside of the table flipped upside down. Slide the bench under the legs to ensure accurate clearance before screwing legs to crossbeam. Note: Sliding the bench under the table ensures that the crossbeam doesn't prevent the bench (chairs, etc.) from fitting. The crossbeam needs to be high enough so that it doesn't prevent the benches or chairs from sliding underneath all the way. If the beam is too low, the benches may slide only part of the way and would not tuck away neatly.

6. Attach the other two legs by pre-drilling holes, filling with glue and hammering in dowels with a rubber mallet or wrapped hammer.



From: Design on a Dime

7. Screw the top onto the base, using two cross braces at each leg.

8. Use a weenie roller to roll polyurethane over the surface and base of the entire table. Let dry before use.

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