Installing a Bathroom Vanity

Replace a vanity and change the look of your bathroom. Watch a video of this and other half-day projects with host Steve Watson from Don't Sweat It.



double bowl top
medicine cabinet
2 faucets
silicone caulk
PVC p-trap kit with compression fittings
PVC t-connector with compression fittings
2 shut-off valves with dual outlets
plumber's putty


flat bar
pipe wrench
electrical pliers
cordless screwgun
cordless drill
caulking gun
crescent wrench
groove-joint pliers




  • Use PVC with compression fittings. It's easier to align and less likely to leak, plus, it doesn't have the odor of PVC cement.
  • When checking for leaks, layout a piece of newspaper or paper towel on the floor of the cabinet. Even a small drip will leave a big mark on a paper towel, so you may catch a leak you would otherwise have missed.



1. Turn off the water at the shut-off valves located under the sink (figure A).



Remove the supply lines going from the faucet to the shut-off valve and loosen the drain line (figure B).



2. Loosen the caulk between the vanity and the wall with a utility knife. Remove the countertop very carefully so as not to damage the wall (figure C).



Remove the screws or nails holding the old vanity cabinet to the wall (figure D).



Get rid of the old cabinet. Remove screws from medicine cabinet (figure E) and pull it out (figure F).



3. Turn off the water to the house at the main shut-off valve. Also, turn off the valves on the top of the water heater to make sure you don’t siphon the water out by accident. Go to the lowest faucet in your house and drain the water.



4. Once the house is drained, remove old shut-off valves and discard. Install new dual-outlet valves (figure G) by inserting the supply pipe into the valve, passing the nut and compression washer over the pipe. Tighten with a wrench. Repeat for the hot and cold lines.

5. Turn the main supply valve back on, and open the valves on the water heater. Check for leaks. If you have a small drip, tighten the compression nut a little more.



6. Attach the faucet and drain assembly to the new vanity top before installing the top. Attach the flexible supply lines to the faucet by tightening the compression nuts to the threaded posts on the faucet (figure H).



Next, insert the faucet through the pre-drilled holes in the vanity top and tighten the nut provided to hold it in place (figure I). Install the drain assembly, included with faucet, by putting some plumber's putty under the rim of the drain trim and push it down through the top of the drain hole in the sink. From underneath, tighten the nut until the putty oozes out on all sides to seal the drain from leaks. Scrape off any excess putty from the inside of the bowl. Back underneath, screw the tailpiece from the drain assembly to the drainpipe and tighten. Install the lift lever and stopper by aligning the lift lever through the hole in the back of the tailpiece and insert it into the hole in the stopper.

7. Install the new vanity cabinet by securing it to the wall studs. Make sure the top is level and the supply valves clear any drawers or obstructions in the cabinet.

8. Run a bead of silicone around the top of the vanity cabinet and set the sink on top of the cabinet.

9. Hook up the supply lines to the hot and cold shut-off valves and tighten compression nuts with a wrench.

10. Hook up new drain assembly to the old drain pipe using a t-connector and new p-trap. Tighten all connections.

11. Turn on shut-off valves. Check for leaks in the supply lines. Turn on the faucet and check for drain line leaks. Fill the sink with water and let drain all at once to check for leaks under pressure.

12. Caulk back and sides of vanity top to wall. Allow 24 hours to dry.

13. Hang medicine cabinet by screwing into the wall studs. Note: Put the middle screw in first so that you can level the cabinet before putting in the rest of the screws.

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