Hanging Crown Molding
To add architectural interest and balance, black crown molding is installed on the ceiling line to match the existing chair rail and the new circular shelf.
Materials and Tools:
small paint roller and mini roller pad
chop saw (miter saw)
finish nail gun and nails
door casing or other flat molding (we used 2-1/4”x5/8” medium-density fiberboard (MDF) casing)
paint (we used Olympic brand paint in black, off the shelf rather than a custom color)
light weight spackle (we used Dap brand Fast ‘N Final lightweight spackle)
thin rubber (neoprene) gloves
clean damp rags
1. Determine how much molding you need by measuring all of the walls of the room. Add an extra 10 percent to allow for cuts and waste.
2. Paint all of your molding. It’s easier and quicker to paint before the molding goes up.
3. Cut the molding on the chop saw mitering the corners to 45-degrees. If the wall is longer than the length of your molding, cut an outwardly facing miter so that you can join the boards together. It’s also a good idea to glue all of the mitered joints so that they don’t pull apart later and crack the paint.
4. Once cut and glued, nail all of your pieces in place along the top of the wall. Start on the wall most visible. Try not to use any pieces less than three feet in length to avoid a choppy appearance.
As seen on HGTV's Design on a Dime, fill all nail holes with light-weight spackle using your fingertips. Wipe smooth before it dries.
5. Fill all nail holes with light-weight spackle using your fingertips. Wipe smooth before it dries.
As seen on HGTV's Design on a Dime, caulking the joints and any gaps between the wall and ceiling with painter’s caulk. Smooth down the caulk with your fingertips and wipe away any excess.
6. Caulk the joints and any gaps between the wall and ceiling with painter’s caulk. Smooth down the caulk with your fingertips and wipe away any excess.
7. When the spackle and caulk are dry, touch-up the paint for a perfect finish.