Water Feature for a Narrow Space

Paul James finds a creative solution for a very narrow bed.

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Figure P

Master gardener Paul James has a small bed between his patio and the back wall of his house.

Figure A

For years, he hasn't been able to figure out what to do with this oddly placed bed. When he came across a set of three basalt columns, it finally occurred to him what to do – make it the site of a new water feature.

Paul gets to work, digging a trench about a foot and a half deep. He leaves about four inches of soil as a wall on either side of the trench. This reservoir will be able to hold a lot of water while also being deep enough to stabilize the tall columns.

Once the trench has been dug, Paul pulls out a heavy-duty pond liner purchased from the local pond supply store. "Always buy more than you need so it reaches and covers all the edges," he says.

Figure B

On top of the liner, he places some flat pieces of limestone. This stone will serve as a support base for the basalt columns while also protecting the liner from tearing during the columns' placement into the trench.

Figure C

Now the reservoir is ready for the columns to be placed. The three columns range in various heights and weigh several hundred pounds each. The columns have pre-drilled holes running their entire length. Paul intends to use a pump to push water through these holes so that it will bubble out the top and run down the sides of the columns.

Figure D

Paul enlists the help of several friends to help him move these heavy columns into the trench. But first he gets a sheet of plywood and places it between the limestone bases and the pond liner against the house wall. Then he takes a second sheet of plywood and lays it on the ground on top of the pond liner. By doing this, he will protect the liner and the side of the house from any potential damage during the move.

Figure E

They carefully place each stone so that they are balanced on the limestone base and so that the pre-drilled holes are easily accessible at the base of each column. He then dumps pre-washed river rock over the limestone bases, just enough to make a solid carpet of rock in the bottom of the trench.

Figure F

Although he isn't a professional plumber, Paul is comfortable with putting together a simple tubing system that connects the pump to the pipes for each column. He uses PVC joints, check valves and flexible tubing to create his manifold.

Figure G

From the 1800-gallon-per-hour pump runs a single piece of flexible tubing. This piece is connected to a header pipe made of PVC.

Figure H

The header pipe is split into three separate valves. Each valve, in turn, is connected to separate pieces of flexible tubing. These three pieces of flexible tubing run to their corresponding basalt column.
By using the check valves attached to each flexible tube, Paul can direct the water flow to each basalt column. This way he can control how much water will trickle out the top of the columns.

Figure I

Once the pump system is set in place in the trench, he adds more river rock so that it is flush with the patio surface. He keeps the check valves uncovered. The rock hides the flexible tubing and the pond liner.

Unfortunately, although this river rock was pre-washed, it still has a lot of muddy debris clinging to it. So Paul uses a trick to siphon the soil out of the trench. He runs one hose attached to a water source into the trench and keeps water running into the trench. Then he takes another hose and places one end into the trench under the water surface.

Figure J

The other end of the hose is placed in a nearby planting bed downhill of the trench. He uses his mouth to suck the free end of the hose until the dirty water starts to come of the hose. Paul will let the water empty out into the bed until it becomes clean and clear. Then he'll remove the siphoning hose and fill the reservoir with water.

Figure K

While allowing the check valves to be fully open, Paul plugs in the pump, and the water starts spilling over the top of each basalt column. Then he adjusts the flow of the water through each column until they are bubbling at a rate to his liking.

Figure L

He trims the excess pond liner, erring on the side of caution so as not to cut off too much.

Figure M

Now it's time to make the finishing touches by adding several aquatic plants and some easy-to-install lights at the base of the columns. Paul has selected three different types of aquatic plants for his new water feature:

  • Corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus f. spiralis) has twisted leaves that reach about 12 to 18 inches tall. It is hardy to USDA Zones 4 to 9.

  • Figure N

  • Fiber-optic grass (Scirpus cernuus, also classified as Isolepis cernua) is appropriately named for its resemblance to fiber optic lights. It reaches 10 to 12 inches tall and is hardy to USDA Zone 8.

  • Figure O

  • Horsetail rush (Equisetum) is a prehistoric grasslike plant, hardy to USDA Zone 3. To plant, Paul scrapes away a few rocks and places the plants, container and all, in the holes. Note: Horsetail rush can be invasive and should be planted in a location where it can be kept in check. All of these plants are readily available at garden centers and grow in shallow water.

  • Finally, he places the aquatic lighting system, which consists of a transformer and three little lights on swivel bases, in its final resting place. He tucks each light into the rocks at the base of each column so they cast a glow on each column. Paul hides the wires underneath the rocks and turns the lights on.

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