Pruning can be the most intimidating and frustrating job in the backyard, so host Rebecca Kolls has decided to take the puzzlement out of pruning. A master of the art of pruning, Tom Carmen shares some tips and tricks:
The best time to prune is during the dormant season--from fall until spring when the buds start popping open again, which is usually about mid-April. While the plants are dormant you will not have problems with diseases and insects, which can be attracted to, and cause infection in, the freshly pruned trees and shrubs. You can prune almost anything in the dormant season, but some trees like oak and elm must be done in the dormant season. During the growing season, diseases like Dutch elm and oak wilt can be carried to those fresh pruning cuts by insects, and increase the chances you will lose the tree. When you're trimming trees or shrubs that blossom very early in the spring (such as lilacs, azaleas and forsythia), you want to be cautious because they set their flowers on last year's wood. If you prune them aggressively in the dormant season you won't get any blooms the following spring. As for crabapple trees, the dormant season is a great time to do structural pruning like removing crossing limbs. Simple hand pruners can handle wood that's about 1/2-inch thick. Use a bypass pruner--it has two blades, one passing by the other; it cuts through wood without crushing it. For people with arthritis or people who don't have enough hand strength to use typical pruners, use a pruner that has a rotating handle. There are also a couple of small handsaws you can use--one is a folding type (the blade folds up into the handle), and the other is a fixed-blade saw that you keep in a scabbard. The saw cuts in only one direction so it doesn't get bound up in the wood. A swivel-head lopper is another very useful pruning tool. It can cut wood just a bit larger than the hand pruners, and the real advantage is that you'll be able to reach up and prune, so it's great for hedges. For harder-to-reach areas, use a pole lopper. It extends eight to 10 feet; it's lightweight and very easy to work with. You put the lopper into position and simply pull down on the handle. You're able to make a bypass motion and cut the limb. It's really easy to use, since you can anchor it and use your weight behind it. Caution: branches will be falling as you prune, so it's not a bad idea to have on a hard hat and protective goggles, so you don't get poked in the eye. The first thing to do when pruning is to see if there is any dead wood in the tree. Make sure to prune right up to the swollen area at the base of the branch--that's called the branch collar. You want to cut just outside that area so you don't damage the healthy part of the tree. The tree can still grow a callous over that area and close up the wound. If you cut too close to the trunk, the tree will be susceptible to disease and decay. Also prune broken limbs and remove limbs that are rubbing others or hanging so low that they are a safety hazard. Allow enough room for a person to pass safely under the tree. Look for overhead power lines near where you expect to prune. In many states, the power company will clear them for you or drop the power lines so you can do the pruning yourself. For the really big jobs, call in the professionals. Guests Tom Carmen
Professional Tree Pruner
Rainbow Care
Toll-free Phone: 877-272-6747 (ARBORIST)
St. Louis Park, MN
Website:
www.rainbowtreecare.com
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