Fences, Drainage Solutions, and More Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-721 -- More Projects »
Master gardener Paul James shares the results of his most recent landscaping improvements, including a new privacy fence, drainage solutions and a tree-stump seat. The first improvement is this cedar privacy fence along James' property (figure A). The fence varies in height from eight feet, to serve as a backdrop for an evergreen bed, to four feet, to provide privacy without completely shutting out the neighbors.
In addition to privacy, the fence also serves an aesthetic purpose. "To dress it up a bit," says James, "I attached a 2- by 6-inch cap piece, and below that a 1- by 2-inch trim piece (figure B). I think the cap piece is a nice touch, and it gives me a place to put my coffee cup." A fence--especially solid fencing made of wood or stone--adds that all-important element of texture to any landscape.Fencing also makes plants stand out. Compare how this pine looks when planted out in the open (figure C) with the same tree planted in front of a fence (figure D). Notice how the fence defines the tree and makes it "pop."
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 Figure E
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 Figure F
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 Figure G
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Because James' property sits at the lowest point in the neighborhood, he receives a tremendous amount of runoff rainwater. But he dried up any drainage issues by using one of his favorite materials, limestone, which also contrasts beautifully with the fence. James used this attractive stone to create a dry creek bed (figure E). To create your own dry creek bed with stone, dig a trench roughly 18 inches deep and three feet wide. Next, line the trench with stone to mimic the look of a natural stream (figure F). "At the end of the stream, I built this simple bridge from 2- by 6-inch rough cedar lumber to cover an existing storm drain that was really ugly" (figure G). James recommends dressing the creek up with additional accent stones, some boulders here and there and, of course, some plants. James' stone wall meanders for 170 feet and serves as a border for a brand new bed. But before he can think about planting anything, there are more drainage issues to deal with. "This bed takes a tremendous amount of rain from my neighbor's gutter," explains James, "and rather than have that water gush right out into the bed, I've rigged a method of diverting and re-distributing its flow."
At the end of his neighbor's gutter spout, James connected a plastic flange (figure H). Then he attached a perforated, flexible plastic pipe that is positioned in a small trench and runs off for a few feet. The plastic pipe eventually splits into branches that re-distribute the water about 15 feet each way (figure I). At the end of each pipe is a plug with holes to allow water to flow out (figure J).
To install the pipes, James first dug trenches in the designated areas. Next, he layered about six inches of gravel along the bottom to help provide drainage and prevent the pipe from getting clogged with debris. To further prevent the possibility of congestion within the pipes, James used a particular pipe that comes with a fabric sleeve that allows water to seep through the perforations in the pipe without allowing any unwanted material to flow back into the pipe. "And just to be on the safe side, I'm going to top off the pipe with a weed fabric before filling the trenches, as yet another means of preventing the pipe from getting clogged," says James.
Once the trench is filled, and if all goes well, the water that once rushed through this area, will now slowly seep into the subsoil. Because this area in James' yard gently slopes away from his neighbor's house, the additional water also keeps his beds nice and moist. However, because the rainy season brings lots of rain, he put several PVC pipes at the base of the stone border to draw excess water out of the beds (figure K).
Next, James tackles about 24 cubic yards, or two dump trucks, of excellent quality topsoil enhanced with a hefty amount of organic material in the form of shredded leaves. To work this large amount of soil into the beds, James uses a tool called a broadfork. This heavy-duty tool features long steel tines that are driven in the ground and rock back and forth to loosen the soil without destroying its substructure (figure L). "It's hard work," says James, "but in my opinion it's much better for the soil than roto-tilling, which does indeed ruin the soil's texture." Once the bed is all prepped, it's time for the finishing touch--mulch. James spreads 150 bags of shredded aromatic cedar mulch to a depth of three inches. He rakes the mulch smooth, and the bed is ready for planting (figure M).
Finally, what do you do if you need to remove a large, dead tree? James left the stump of one such tree in the ground to use as a seat. But if left alone, the wood will rot after a few years, so he suggests treating it with a polyurethane sealer (figure N). Spray on four coats of polyurethane, letting it dry completely between coats.
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