How to Build a Contemporary Water Fountain

To implement the project, the couple has enlisted the help of landscape designer Rich Radford, who estimates that a professional installation of the project would cost around $7,000 (without accessories), while a do-it-yourselfer could expect to spend about $1,800 and three weekends to complete the work. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult, Radford rates the project a "5", and explains that the intricate, involved construction of the fountain accounts for the challenge of its installation.

Step One: Preparing for the Pond

Radford says the strong vertical and horizontal lines of this fountain will give it a contemporary yet classic look. To get the project underway, the crew first marks out the location of the fountain using stakes and string line--this fountain will be four feet wide and six feet long.

Next they dig out the pre-marked area to a depth of about two feet. Along one side, they dig out a slightly deeper trench that will serve as a basin for the water as it flows over the spillway of the fountain.

Figure A

Then the crew begins building the large square form for the concrete. Radford explains that using 3/4" plywood sheets reinforced with horizontal 2"x4"s of pressure-treated Douglas fir along the outside gives the forms the necessary strength to hold in the three tons of concrete. Once the plywood sheets are cut to size, the crew simply inserts them into the ground (figure A), secures them at the corners with screws and reinforces them along the outside with the 2"x4"s.

Figure B

Once three sides of the form are in place, Radford inserts a square re-bar support cage for the concrete inside the frame. The crew has already used lengths of bent re-bar fastened together with tie wire to construct the outer structure of the cage. Then they reinforce the cage with more re-bar to create a tight grid pattern on all sides of the cube, securing each joint with tie wire (figure B).

To complete the framing, the crew builds a wooden box that will create the space inside the fountain for the upper reservoir. The square box (which measures about two-and-a-half feet in width and length) is constructed with pressure-treated fir plywood, which is durable enough to prevent any concrete leakage.

Figure C

Then the crew nails two long 2"x4"s across the open top of the box ( figure C), so that it can "hang" inside the fountain's frame, with the 2"x4"s extending over the frame's sides to hold it in place while the concrete is poured around it.

The crew creates the small cavity for the reservoir's spillway by cutting an indention in the top edge of the front piece of the box and running a shallow ledge from the cut-out area to the edge of the fountain. (This will allow the water to flow out of the reservoir, across the spillway and down the front of the fountain into the catch basin below.)

Figure D

Finally, the crew drills a one-inch hole in the bottom of the box to accommodate a length of one-inch PVC pipe; an elbow joint is used to connect this piece with a longer length of pipe that leads to the catch basin below (figure D). Then the crew uses PVC glue to secure the opposite end of the longer length of pipe to a final pipe segment (this length will later be fitted to the pump).

Figure E

Step Two: Pouring the Concrete and Adding the Plants

Before pouring the concrete into the forms, the crew thoroughly wets down the forms and the ground inside (figure E). Contractor Fernando Chavez explains that this will prevent necessary moisture from being absorbed out of the concrete.

Figure F

The crew makes way for three cubic yards of concrete, which is brought in by a pumper and channeled directly to the site with a hose. (A pumper should be ordered along with the concrete when large quantities are involved.) As the concrete is pumped through the hose into the form, the crew continuously agitates the mixture with a vibratory concrete pencil, which can be rented for a nominal fee (figure F). This tool prevents air bubbles from forming within the concrete as it's poured in place.

Once the form is filled, the crew uses a 2"x4" to smooth the surface of the concrete. After allowing the concrete to cure for 48 hours (Radford says the longer, the better), the crew removes the wooden framing piece by piece.

The crew then completes the catch basin that runs along the front of the fountain. The trench has been dug to a depth of two-and-a-half feet, with a width of 18 inches. To line the trench, the crew constructs a simple frame of Douglas fir 2"x12"s to fit perfectly inside the dug-out space.

Before placing the framework inside the trench, however, the crew first coats the structure with an emulsion/sealant that will help protect the wood from moisture and rotting. The treatment, which is applied with a brush, is allowed to dry before the crew covers the framework with filter fabric (available in irrigation supply stores).

Figure G

The fabric--which is wrapped tightly around the framework and secured with a staple gun (figure G)--will prevent splinters and sharp rocks from damaging the PVC liner, which the crew lays inside the catch basin framework, fitting it neatly into the corners. Radford says that although a standard PVC pond liner can be cut to size to fit the trench, it's best to order a custom-made liner (about $80) like the one used here.

To give the fountain a custom look, a length of shiny copper trim is nailed to the inside top edge of the catch basin (the edge closest to the fountain). The spillway ledge above is also lined with copper for an extra decorative touch.

With the structure of the fountain and the catch basin complete, Radford turns his attention to the planting plan. He explains that the plants used here have been chosen to highlight the clean lines of the fountain, and won't overwhelm or detract from the setting with too much color. Reed-like plants will emphasize the fountain 's vertical lines, while plants with interesting textures in soft shades of gray and purple will accent the surrounding beds.

Featured Plants

• Horsetail (Equisetum hyemale), Zones 7-10
• Penstemon 'Midnight', Zones 7-10
• Toadflax (Linaria purpurea), Zones 5-8
• Pennisetum setaceum 'Cupreum', Zones 9-10 (unable to tolerate a hard frost )
• Eulalia Grass (Miscanthus sinensis), Zones 4-9 (a cold-climate alternative to pennisetum)

Step Three: Cosmetic Details

To give the fountain a polished look and prevent it from looking like a "big box of concrete," the crew applies a stucco finish to its exterior. (Radford says it's best to let the concrete cure for a full two to three days--or longer-- before applying the finish.) The stucco used here is a standard mix, readily available in building supply stores. To blend the mixture to a proper consistency (not too runny), the crew uses a power mortar mixer; however, Radford explains that stucco can also be mixed by hand using a trowel.

Figure H

Once the mixture is ready, the crew applies it to the concrete with a trowel, using long, even strokes. To keep the application even from top to bottom, Chavez lays a 2"x4" along the top edge of the fountain so that it slightly hangs over along the side (figure H). As the crew smoothes the stucco in place, working from bottom to top, they make sure that the thickness of the stucco along the top is flush with the overhang of the 2"x4" (this prevents the strokes from "tapering off" along the top edge).

Next, the crew sets to work adding a handsome patio of Arizona flagstone around the base of the fountain. With its soft, earthy look, the smooth flagstone surface perfectly offsets the style of the contemporary fountain.

After giving the stucco ample time to cure (at least five days), the crew applies a special stain product to its surface, giving the fountain a soft, slightly aged look. Here, the homeowners have chosen a warm golden amber shade that yields a muted tone. The crew applies the stain carefully with a brush, making sure to get the color perfectly uniform as it goes on.

Note: Radford says that since staining stucco can be a tricky process--especially since any errors will be permanent--it may be best to hire a professional for this step.

Figure I

To complete the structure of the fountain, the crew coats the entire top surface with mortar, then lays two large, pre-cut "caps" of Arizona flagstone on the mortar layer (figure I). (Each of the two caps covers one-half of the top edge, with a slight overhang along both the inner and outer edges.) Radford explains that although smaller pieces of flat rock--pavers, for example--would also work for the cap, large pieces are used here to enhance the fountain's dramatic design.

Figure J

Then, Radford places a submersible pump (figure J) in the catch basin, which is attached to the end of the pipe laid in place earlier. (This particular pump processes about 1200 gallons of water per hour.) Finally, he lines the bottom of the upper reservoir with a thick layer of glossy decorative pebbles (these sell for about $30 per bag ) and fills it with water, then turns on the pump to start the water flowing over the spillway and back down into the catch basin below.