A Decorative Screen

Some lattice panels conceal the unsightly.

Tools
Font
  • A
  • A
  • A

E-mail This Page to Your Friends

x

All fields are required.

Separate multiple e-mail addresses with a comma

Sending E-mail

Sending E-mail

Or Do Not E-mail

Success!

A link to %this page% was e-mailed

Figure G

If you have something in your yard you'd like to hide, such as garbage cans or air conditioning unit, Landscape Smart has an attractive and easy solution: a decorative lattice screen (figure A). Homeowner Tracy Marcelli has a small front yard with a fence next to the driveway. She wants to hide the garbage cans and recycling bins but retain easy access. Landscape designer Scott Soden of Artscapes designs a decorative screen using readily available lattice and posts and dresses it up with flowerboxes. The lattice gives the screen a light, airy touch, and the flowerboxes add a charming cottage garden feel. He considered all vantage points and oriented the screen so that the garbage cans are not visible from the street, front door, or windows.

Soden estimates that a professional would charge about $1,200 to build the lattice screen and flowerboxes, but do-it-yourselfers can buy the materials for only $300. This project is rated an easy 2 on a difficulty scale of 1 (easy) to 5 (difficult) and can be completed in one weekend.

Figure A

Step One: Establishing the Layout

Make sure that the area to be screened is level. Measure the object to be hidden and double the size to allow easy access. Hammer in stakes to mark the perimeter of the area (figure B).

Figure B

Step Two: Pouring the Base

Using 2x4 planks, make a simple frame to hold in a decomposed granite base by placing the planks against the stakes. Grade the site 2 to 3 inches below the top of the frame. Pin down landscape fabric inside the frame to prevent weeds. Pour decomposed granite into the framed area to 2 inches thick and rake it out smooth and level. Wet the surface to set the granite and use a hand tamper to pack it down (figure C).

Figure C

Step Three: Building the Framing

The framing consists of three 8-foot-long, pressure-treated, rot-resistant 4x4 posts, plus 1x8 kickboards and 2x4 bottom and top rails.

Mark where the posts will go. For this 6- by 3-foot screen, the two outer posts are set 3 feet out from the fence and 6 feet apart. The third post is set up against the fence, behind one outer post and at the opposite end of where the screen opening will be (figure D). Dig holes for the posts, about 2 feet deep and 6 inches wide to allow enough room for concrete. Place a cobblestone into the hole to elevate the post off the dirt at the bottom of the hole. Set the post in the hole, and while holding it in place, have a friend check that it's plumb. Secure it temporarily with braces. Pour a couple of bags of dry concrete into the hole, add water to a thick consistency, and mix it using a scrap stake. Set the other two posts in the same way. Let the concrete set overnight before removing the braces.

For the kickboard, measure between the two outer posts and cut a 1x8 plank to fit between them. Slide it into place, between the posts on the ground, and screw it to the posts. Do the same for a kickboard between the outer post and the post set against the fence. For the bottom rails, cut 2x4s to the same length as the kickboards and center them on top of the kickboards. Attach them with screws.

Figure D

Cut off the posts to about 4 1/2 feet tall. Cap them with a 2x4 top rail, with one end cut at a 45-degree angle. Cut another 2x4 to fit across the side of the screen, with one end cut at a 45-degree angle. Place the top rails on top of the posts, joining the two angled ends (figure E). Attach with screws.

Figure E

Step Four: Installing the Lattice

Lattice comes in 4- by 8-foot, pre-made sheets (about $25 each) and is easy to install. Soden recommends using architectural-grade lattice, which is less apt to chip or split. Use a circular saw to cut the lattice to fit between the posts and the top and bottom rails. Attach 1 1/2-inch-wide strips of redwood lath to the inside faces of the posts to hold the lattice in place. You don't have to nail it; just make sure it fits snuggly. Attach more lath to the screen front along the bottom rail for added detail (figure F).

Figure F

Top the laths with 1x1 redwood trim to make a layered molding for an attractive, recessed look (figure G). Do the same for the side panel. Secure the panels from the inside (back) by nailing more redwood strips along the top, bottom, and sides.

Step Five: Adding Accents and Planting Around a Screen

Buy pre-made cedar flowerboxes at a garden supply store and spray paint them with two coats of primer. After they dry, screw them onto the top rail so that they cap both walls. Spray the rest of the screen with primer and allow to dry. Apply one coat of exterior latex paint to give the screen a bright, clean look. Let dry overnight before planting in the boxes.

The planting plan includes:

English ivy (Hedera helix), Zones 5-11
Cyclamen persicum, Zone 11 (you can take it indoors during winter)
Primrose (Primula polyanthus), Zones 6-8
Delphinium (200 varieties), various zones

The screen not only hides the garbage cans but is also an attractive addition to the yard because of the colorful plantings on top and around it. The flowerboxes hold a mixture of cascading foliage and upright flowers in jewel tones to brighten the area. Containers of flowers round out the screen garden.

Resources

    • Scott Soden
      Landscape Designer
      Artscapes
      603 Alameda de Las Pulgas
      Belmont, CA 94002
      Phone: 650-591-1222
      Website: www.artscapesonline.com

Comparison Shop for Home Decor and Garden Tools at Shopzilla and BizRate.

Get cheap gas and electricity, business electricity, car insurance quotes at uSwitch and Yoahorro. (UK and Spain residents only)