Semi Built-In Closet

Organize your space with a simple storage solution. Try more half-day projects with host Steve Watson from Don't Sweat It!

Don't Sweat It : Episode HDSWT-101 -- More Projects »
PHOTO

Before: Unused Alcove
PHOTO

After: Storage Solution
Materials:

1 sheet 3/4" oak plywood
1 sheet 1/4" oak plywood
8' oak 1x3s
8' oak 1x4s
8' oak 1x6
1 roll 25' oak edging
6 recessed Euro-mount hinges
1 handle
three 18" closet poles
3 sets closet pole cups
stain
wood glue

Tools:

table saw with plywood and dado blades
miter saw
brad gun
iron
tape measure
square
cordless drill
drill bits

Tips/Benefits:

• Use wood glue when working with cabinetry because it'll make it more secure and keep it from squeaking if the pieces shift.
• Building this cabinet slightly smaller than an opening and using the face frame to hide the gap not only eases installation in a crooked house, but also saves material by making the cabinet fit the 48-inch width of standard plywood.

Steps:

1. Measure dimensions for the closet and make all cuts first. To make the outer face frame, use the oak 1x3s. Cut stiles (verticals) and rails (horizontals) to fit opening, being sure to make it square. Cuts can be straight or mitered depending on the style desired.
2. Use the 3/4-inch plywood to make the entire outer shell and all the shelves. Cut the sides to desired depth. The length of the sides needs to be 1/2-inch shorter than the opening. The top, bottom and shelves should be cut two inches smaller than the opening. The back needs to be cut 1/2-inch shorter than the height of the opening and 1/2-inch shorter than the width of the opening.

PHOTO

Figure A
3. Note: It's best to assemble the cabinet in the room as may not fit up stairs/through doorways. Glue the top and bottom pieces between the two side pieces, and then nail them in place (figure A). Glue and nail (from the outside)shelves into place where desired.
4. After shelves are secure, glue and nail the back onto the box by lining up one long edge and one short edge of the box to the plywood back, making sure everything is square.
PHOTO

Figure B
5. Install box in opening and attach it to the wall (figure B). Screw into the studs if possible. If not, use toggle bolts or hollow wall anchors. The weight of the cabinet is on the floor, attaching it to the wall is just for safety.
6. Attach face frame to box by gluing and nailing through the front. Make sure to keep all the openings square, so building the doors is easier!
7. Cut the 1x6 for the toe kick trim to the width of the cabinet and attach it by nailing down through the bottom of the cabinet.

Build doors to fit openings:

1. Using the 1x4s, build a mitered frame 1-1/4-inch bigger than the opening. Most hinges use a 5/8-inch offset to mount the door, so making the door 1-1/4-inch bigger will keep it centered over the opening.
2. Run inside edge of frame over dado blade to create a 1/4-inch slot. This will create the groove for the door panel to ride in.
3. Cut 1/4-inch plywood panel to fit groove.

PHOTO

Figure C
4. Nail the frame around the plywood panel (figure C). Note: Be sure not to glue plywood panel into frame. Plywood is very stable and oak is not, so they will expand and contract at different rates. They need to be able to move separately.
5. Sand the entire piece and remove dust. Stain the cabinet and doors as desired.
PHOTO

Figure D
6. Mount doors using recessed Euro-mount hinges (figure D) according to manufacturer's instructions. These hinges are available in a variety of styles and provide fool-proof installation and six-way adjustment to make sure everything lines up. Attach handles if desired.
7. Iron on oak edging where desired.
8. Install closet poles where needed/desired. Screw the brackets to the walls of the cabinet and cut the pole to rest in the brackets.

* Standard messaging rates apply. Contact your mobile provider for more details.