Adding Paths and Edges To Your Garden

When placing flagstones or limestones, use the stone as a template and cut an outline into the sod.

Flagstone path

In this project, flagstones are used to make a path from the patio to the vegetable garden. The path is about 30 feet long, and it takes 10 to 12 steps to walk it. This path also connects to the walkway beside the house. Twenty stones are probably a few more than needed but will allow for any changes along the way. Leftovers can always be used somewhere else in the yard. To install:

1. Stack the stones in small piles along the path.
2. Place the stones where you think they will work best.
3. Walk the path in both directions a couple of times to make sure the stones are laid out at a comfortable distance, and then make final adjustments. It's important to get this step right the first time; you don't want to remove more sod than is necessary, and the stones are too heavy to keep moving around.
4. Once the flagstones are in their permanent spots, cut around them into the sod with a sharp spade.
5. Move the stone to the side and remove two inches of soil plus the depth of the flagstone (in this case about four inches deep) to make room for the filler and the stone.
6. Add about two inches of sand and smooth it out to make a stable but pliable base for the stone. Without sand, the pathway would be less stable and the stones would be prone to cracking.
7. Double-check to make sure the stones are level to the ground. If they're not, adjust the sand accordingly.
8. Spray the stones with a hose to wash them off and help them settle in.

Ornamental stepping stones

When placing stepping stones in a mulched bed, you don't have to worry about setting them in sand. The stones will settle as people walk on them. They also don't need to be flush to the ground as this is more of a landing area than a permanent walkway. One of the nice things about these stones is that they can easily be removed and placed somewhere else. To install:

1. Clear an area of mulch to lay the stone in.
2. Place the stone firmly into the soil.
3. Spread the mulch back around the stones.

Limestone edging

The two flowerbeds in this project are 30 feet long combined, so 35 linear feet of limestone was ordered to be sure there would be enough due to irregularities in the stone. Limestone is a bit expensive, but because of its durability, it should never have to be replaced. To install:

1. Start by digging a trench around the garden bed. It needs to be the same width and depth of the limestone, which is 5 inches by 5 inches.
2. Lay the limestone in, starting at one end of the trench. Lay the stone flush with the ground for easier mowing. Since this isn't a path, it won't be walked on and is less likely to crack, so sand isn't needed underneath.

Decorative edging

You can purchase edging through catalogs, your local garden center or the Internet. It's typically sold in 2- to 3-foot sections. To install:

1. Measure your area.
2. Just place the edging firmly into the ground and make sure it's straight.

Because of its flexibility, plastic landscape edging works great around corners, allowing you to be creative with your design.

Plastic landscape edging

Plastic edging is commonly used by gardeners. It maintains the shape of the garden nicely and creates a tidy, clean look. The edging is made out of a durable plastic that should last for many seasons. It can be found at most garden centers, is inexpensive and easy to install.

1. Using a sharp spade, cut a slice, or narrow trench, around the entire flowerbed, about four inches deep.
2. The edging fits right into the slice, with the lip remaining just above the surface of the ground. You don't want to call attention to this type of border; it's just a clean line that separates the grass from the flowerbed.
3. Secure it by hammering a spike about every eight feet through the edging into the ground. This prevents the edging from shifting caused by winter weather conditions like thawing and freezing. These spikes can be purchased along with the edging at most garden centers.
4. Push soil back against the edging.

A sharp, 90-degree edge, combined with the mounded shape of the bed, helps to showcase this magnolia tree.

Dropped-lawn edge

If you have a favorite tree that's a prominent feature in your yard, consider emphasizing it with a dropped-lawn edge. This edge can erode easily, so keep in mind that this technique works best for low-traffic areas. To install:

After you make the cut around the entire tree, take your spade and, holding it at a 45-degree angle, dig from the inside of the outline toward the cut.

1. Outline the proposed shape of the bed with a hose. Use the tree's drip line, the edge of the outermost branches, as your guide to emphasize the tree's shape and size.
2. Cut four inches into the soil along the outline. Make sure the cut is perpendicular to the ground for a nice, clean look.
3. Remove any sod from under the tree to the line of the cut.
4. Spread mulch to the cut line. You can add landscape fabric under the mulch to discourage weed growth.