How to Build an Outdoor Kitchen

Landscape designer Dan Berger is on hand to help install the new outdoor kitchen, and placement is key, he says. Overhanging tree branches or nearby plants could pose a fire hazard. Choose a clear site for your kitchen, or check local fire codes to learn the clearance requirements of an open flame to combustible surfaces.

You can spend between $12,000 and $40,000 to have an outdoor kitchen installed by a professional, or you can take on the project yourself and pay for materials only, which would cost around $2,000, depending on the design you choose.

In terms of difficulty, this project rates a 5 on a scale of 1 (easy) to 5 (difficult). "There's some heavy lifting involved, you need to pour some concrete, you've got to do some tile work and some stucco work," says Berger. "But if you take your time, get a few friends to help you, it's a very doable project."

Figure A

Step One: Building the Base

For the 10' x 7' base, Berger had the foundation professionally poured (figure A). Any electrical, water or gas lines should also be installed by a professional who is familiar with local regulations.

Figure B

To build the walls, Berger uses special locking cinder blocks that feature tabs to hold the blocks together (figure B). You simply stack them and fill them with concrete.

Figure C

Begin by dry-fitting the first course of blocks. Mark their placement to make sure everything fits and is level. Coat the bottom of the blocks with a masonry adhesive (figure C) to secure them to the concrete foundation.

Figure D

Slide them over the rebar stubs and press them into place (figure D). Leave spaces in the base for cabinet doors, which will come later.

Figure E

Once the first course is in (figure E), extend the rebar stubs by attaching additional lengths of rebar with tie wire. Set the second course of blocks on top of the first, staggering the joints for strength.

Figure F

Next, lay in more rebar, this time horizontally (figure F); attach it to the vertical rebar with tie wire. Repeat this process after the fifth course of blocks as well.

Frame the gaps left for the cabinets with temporary braces for support. When you've completed the sixth course of blocks, you should have a base three feet high, the standard height for countertops.

Figure G

Step Two: Creating the Countertop

To support the cantilevered section of the countertop that will serve as the breakfast bar, Berger uses a circular saw to notch the cinder blocks to accept 2" x 2" pieces of wood that extend beyond the base (figure G). Once all the 2" x 2" braces are in, the crew fills in the base cells with grout.

Figure H

Use watered-down ready-mix concrete and fill the blocks to the top, smoothing the surface with a trowel (figure H). Let the grout set overnight, to lock the whole wall together.

The countertop is fashioned from half-inch concrete tile backer board, which will create a strong, flat surface to place tile on. Set the backer board (available for about $10 a sheet) on top of the block wall, leaving a one-inch overhang on the inside of the counter. Pre-drill holes in the backer board and attach it to the blocks with concrete anchor screws. Next, using a circular saw, trim the edges of the countertop and cut out openings for the barbecue and sink.

Planting Plan

To soften the edges of the large barbecue, Berger uses colorful, fragrant plants and incorporates pots of useful culinary herbs as well. Featured plants include the following:

• Flowering maple (Abutilon pictum)
• Hydrangea serrata 'Bluebird'
• Gardenia jasminoides
• Purple sage (Salvia officinalis)

Figure I

Step Three: Applying the Stucco

Before applying the stucco, cover the countertop with craft paper to help protect it from splatters. Use a standard stucco mix and spread it directly on the block walls, smoothing it out with a trowel (figure I). Once the surface is completely covered, score the stucco with a toothed trowel so that the next layer has something to grab onto. Let the first coat dry for about a day before putting on the second coat. If you want to, you can brighten the stucco with a final coat of pastel exterior latex paint.

Step Four: Tiling the Countertop and Adding the Appliances

There are literally thousands of combinations of tiles you can use to create the effect you want in your outdoor kitchen. For this project, Berger chose large slate tiles for the counter's center section and smaller marble-patterned tiles in gray and terra cotta to decorate the edges of the countertop.

He cuts the tiles to size using a tile saw with a diamond blade (these can be rented for about $40 a day). Coat the tiles with a stone sealant to protect them and bring out their colors. Allow the tiles to dry for about an hour before setting them in place.

Figure J

Make a temporary support from wood or metal to hold the trim tiles in place (figure J). Set the tiles with a latex modified thin-set mortar. Spread the mortar on the backer board countertop with a notched trowel, position the tiles and keep them in place with special spacers (see video at right for details).

Let the tiles set overnight, then apply a ceramic tile grout with a rubber trowel. Allow the grout to dry for about 30 minutes and wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Apply a final coat of sealant to the tiles to make them shine.

Install cabinet doors for the storage areas underneath (figure K) and hook up the appliances for the outdoor kitchen.

Figure L

For this project the homeowners have requested a barbecue grill (figure L) as well as a sink, portable smoker and range top, but you can choose items as simple or as elaborate as your budget will allow.