Gutter Installation

A gutter system is essential in protecting a home from water damage.

A functioning gutter system provides great protection against water damage to your home, driveway and basement. (click to enlarge)

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Big problems like a leaky basement, cracked foundation or driveway often begin above you, in the roof gutters. Moisture can be a devastating enemy to your home, but a properly installed gutter system will protect your home from water damage. For this project, you'll need an extra set of hands and two ladders along with the proper tools and equipment.

Materials and Tools:

tape measure
two ladders
graph paper
gutter sections
downspouts
gutter hardware
mason's line
chalk line
gutter seam sealant
power drill
gutter splash guards

Steps:

1. The first thing to do is determine how much material you will need. Obtain the linear footage measurements of the roofline. Also, decide where you want your downspouts. Be sure to practice ladder safety.

2. Begin measuring the roofline where the gutter will be installed, adding together the lengths of each fascia. Take the measurement from the outer edge of the shingle (figure A). Mark the measurements and make an outline on graph paper. Next, mark the locations of the downspouts with an "X." (figure B). Plan on one downspout per gutter per 20 foot run. Finally, measure and add the heights from the ground to the roofline in the locations where the downspouts will go.

3. If you are replacing an existing gutter system, once the old system is removed check for rot along the fascia board. If there is damage, you can place a fascia plate or fascia cover over it or just replace the fascia board.

4. You need to have enough gutter to catch the watershed. For about every 20 feet of gutter, you need at least a half-inch of drop. This will ensure that the water ends up in the downspouts.

Figure C (click to enlarge)

5. Begin by driving a nail into the fascia at one end of the gutter-run wall a half-inch below the top of the fascia (figure C). Stretch a mason's line from the nail. To properly align the slope (using a line level on the mason's line) drop one end of the line a quarter-inch for every 25 feet of fascia length, then mark that point with a pencil (figure D). Snap a chalk line from the marks to show where the top of the gutter will be attached.

6. Remember to pitch longer runs toward an outlet at either end, as opposed to just one end. The gutters should always be pitched away from the front valleys and toward the corners.

Figure E (click to enlarge)

7. Familiarize yourself with the hardware involved in installing the gutters, which are, in this case, aluminum (figure E). From right to left are: a strap that will attach the downspout to the house, a piece that holds the butt joints together, a hidden fastener, a spike and ferrule fastener, seam sealer and end caps. Not pictured is a downspout outlet.

Figure F (click to enlarge)

8. Next, lay gutters on the ground as a model for how they will go on the fascia. Use tin snips to cut the gutters to length. Smooth the sharp aluminum edges with a file. Remember to use gloves during these steps. Apply gutter seam sealant to the gutter section that requires an end cap to prevent leaking (figure F).

Figure G (click to enlarge)

9. The end cap section is the piece you will start with when applying the gutters to the fascia. Working from the end of the fascia, use hidden fasteners (figure G) to attach the end cap gutter.

Figure H (click to enlarge)

Hidden fasteners are slipped into the gutter run, then the gutter is screwed into the fascia with a drill and screws (figure H).

Figure I (click to enlarge)

10. Using the chalk line to keep the gutters flush with the slope line, attach the downspout outlet to the fascia, again using a power drill (figure I). Continue this process with gutter sections. Hidden fasteners are placed every 24 inches along the gutter run.

Figure J (click to enlarge)

When two pieces of gutter come together, use a gutter connector on the exterior seam (figure J) and gutter sealant on the interior (figure K) to prevent leaks.

Figure L (click to enlarge)

11. To attach a downspout, assemble an elbow and a short length of downspout to carry the run to the wall. Anchor the downspout to the wall with two brackets, one near the top of the wall (figure L) and the other just above the foundation. Attach another elbow at the bottom of the downspout to divert water away from the foundation.

Figure M (click to enlarge)

Place a splash guard underneath it (figure M) to keep water from eroding the soil.

12. Maintain your gutters by clearing them of debris at least twice a year — spring and fall are good choices. Remove leaves, straw and other debris by hand, then rinse through with a garden hose. Trying to rinse debris down the gutters can clog the downspouts. A screening system can save you a lot of time by keeping debris out of the gutters in the first place.

This project takes one to two days to finish.