How To: Cutting and Hanging Decorative Molding
Dress up your dining room -- or any room -- with this decorative chair rail and panel molding.
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Materials and Tools:
pneumatic nail gun and nails
one gallon paint Stainmaster Barely There
DAP liquid adhesive
20 House of Fara oak decorative crowns
12 House of Fara oak IS crown corners
4 House of Fara oak OS crown corners
20 House of Fara oak panels
10 House of Fara embossed battern
1. Paint the chair rail and the trim.
2. Use level and tape measure to mark the level on the wall where the chair rail will go. Ours was 37-1/2 inches from the floor.
3. Use the circular saw to cut the chair rail to size. When cutting them, make sure the patterns line up.
4. Run a strip of carpenter's glue across the back.
5. Cut wedge for end of chair rail return miter to have pattern running to the wall instead of end grain.
6. Set the chair rail 1/2 inch from the wall to have a bit of green showing.
7. Attach the wedge to the chair rail, and then attach the chair rail to the wall so that it just barely covers the line.
8. Nail the chair rail to the wall with the nail gun at a 45-degree angle. Shooting the nail on an angle pinches it into the drywall and makes it harder for it to rip out.
9. Measure the size you want your panels to be and use the circular saw to cut the panels on 45-degree angles. We used about 30 pieces for this room.
10. Set up a stop on the saw so that the lumber is the same cut every time.
12. Apply DAP liquid adhesive to the back of the horizontal top section, and apply the section to the wall.
13. Nail the horizontal top piece to the wall. Use fewer nails here than on the chair rail, because the trim is more fragile.
14. Next, nail the vertical pieces in place, then move on to the bottom horizontal pieces. Make sure the miters are in the right place, and nail them off.
15. We marked the wall with one 90-degree angle on each panel, which ensures the other corner will be 90 degrees. We spaced the panels five inches apart.
16. Apply adhesive to the back, attach the panel flush against the wall and then nail off the new panel.
17. Continue this process throughout room.
18. Paint crown blocks and crown molding.
19. Measure and cut the crown molding.
20. Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the crown block, and apply to the corners. These crown blocks let you skip mitering the corners of the crown molding.
21. Put the crown corner into place and then nail it off with the pneumatic nailer.
22. The bottom section of crown should sit flush against the wall. Then you can slide it into place.
23. Nail the crown molding into the studs along the wall. Typically studs are located every 16 inches.
24. Put a couple of nails through the top of the crown molding into the ceiling beam.
25. There may be a gap at the top of the crown, which you can fill with caulk.
26. When you reach the opposite corner, install the crown block and then measure and cut the joining piece of crown with the circular saw at a 30-degree angle. This will make the cut less noticeable on the ceiling. You can apply caulk to the inside edge to make the cut invisible, and then nail it into the wall.
27. Continue crown molding and block process around the room.
grid lights (item #5098304), grid lights candelabra (item #5098314), cubit (item #811371) — Design ID
chairs (Juno right and left-hand swivel chairs, Moroccan brown, item #27486) — Home Decorators
sofa (Modern sofa Passion suede fabric cream, item #7105-20) — Huntington House
area rugs (Classic Home/Pampas Bordered Sisal-Olive) — Rugs Direct
window shade (Whim Sun N Shade-Mist, item #670940), window shade (Biscayne Bay Sun N Shade-Dune, item #668591) — Waverly Fabrics
hardwood flooring (Woodstock Hardwood hand scraped hardwood MW, Double Tone, 7x9/16", Antique Expresso) — iFloor.com
blinds (2.5" wood lev Max-Chestnut) — Levolor Blinds
room paint (Julesberg), trim paint (Barely There) — Stainmaster Paint