Try Roasted Three Peppers and Greens

Dear Lynne: Are radish tops safe, or are they dangerous like rhubarb leaves? If they won't kill me, what can I do with them? - A Little Nervous

Dear Nervous: Don't be. Rhubarb leaves pack high levels of toxic oxalic acid, but radish leaves are safe. They have a mild bite, a little like the radish beneath them, and like that radish, they are best eaten young and in great shape.

Try them instead of lettuce or arugula in sandwiches (they love mayonnaise). I use them as a foil for roasted sweet vegetables, like peppers, onions, squashes, carrots or parsnips. Roasting browns the greens, lending them a rich, pleasingly tart-meaty flavor.

Test-drive the concept with this dish. It's a chameleon, turning into a relish, a dip, a topping for anything grilled, a side dish or a saucing for pasta. Chill for up to five days, or freeze for up to six months.

Roasted Three Peppers and Greens

Ingredients:

5 large sweet red and yellow peppers, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces
2 to 3 medium-hot to hot fresh chiles, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (jalapeno, Hungarian, cubanelle or Serrano)
2 medium to large red onions, cut into 2-inch chunks
4 large cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
a big handful of fresh radish leaves, spring mix, curly endive, escarole or young arugula, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup pitted Kalamata olives
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn
1/2 tsp. dry oregano
2 to 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 lemons cut in wedges (for garnish)

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Slip a large shallow pan into the oven to heat it up. In a big bowl, toss together all the ingredients (except the lemons), seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.

With oven mitts, pull out the shelf with the shallow pan. Turn all the vegetables onto the pan. Spread them out and roast for about 45 minutes, turning often. Peppers should have some browning and radish leaves should be crisp. Encourage browning by keeping everything spread out during cooking.

Serve hot or at room temperature with lemon wedges to squeeze for the dish's final seasoning.

Serves 4 to 8

Lynne Rossetto Kasper is the host of national radio show "The Splendid Table."