Barberas are simple but delightful red wines

NICK'S PICKS: Castlevero, Italy, 2000 Barbera; intense ruby red color with slightly garnet hues, well balanced bouquet, fruity with spicy influences and nice acidity. Pair with grilled or roasted red meats, all types of game, cheese that is not overly ripe or strong. ($9-$12) The national wine buzz recently has been focused on syrah wine coming to the forefront in the Pacific Northwest and challenging the preeminence of French syrah.

An Italian variety, Barbera, may well be another European variety to follow in the footsteps of Syrah. The Italian in me insisted on learning more about this dry, red, Italian wine.

Barbera found its way from Italy to small plantings in what was Yugoslavia, and fairly large acreage in the Mendoza and San Juan Provinces of Argentina.

More recently immigrants brought the vines to. The Monferrato area in Northwest Italy's Piedmont (Pee-a-mont-ee) Region is frequently cited as the variety's birthplace, although Italian ampelographer Pierre Viala cites Oltrepo Pavese in Italy's Lombardy Region, just north of Piedmont, as its original home.

The first records of Barbera have been traced to Paul the Deacon. According to his account of the Battle of Refrancore in 663.d., the Longobard troops of Grimaldo defeated the Franks after getting them drunk on wine from neighboring cellars. Also, the archives of the cathedral chapters of Casale Monferrato show contracts leasing vineyard land between 1246 and 1277, and requiring Barbera be planted there.

Barbera is sometimes called 'the people's wine' of Piedmont Region for its versatility and its abundant production. Alba, Asti, and the Monferrato give their names to the three zones of Piedmont considered classic zones (DOC) for Barbera.

The Italian version comes in a bewildering range of styles, from the young and spritzy to powerful and intense wines that need extended cellaring.

Certain characteristics are constant nonetheless: a deep ruby color, a full body with notably pronounced acidity, and generous alcohol. During the 1980s, producers began aging their wines in small oak barrels, adding spiciness to its aromas and a certain quantity of tannins which firm up its structure and soften the impact of its acidity.

Some Italian Barberas I've enjoyed in the recent past, in addition to this Week's Nick's Pick, include G. Giovanni,1997 Barbera d'Alba ($7); Corsini, 2000 Barbera d' Alba, ($12); and M. Chiarlo 2000 Barbera d'Asti.

For the most part, these are simple, but delightful, red wines, with great dark fruit aromas and flavors like cherries and plums, with a hint of tobacco.

Next time California and Washington Barbera.. Look for more tasting notes on the above Italian Barbera the "Taste This" section of my web site.

Nick Tomassi teaches wine- and beer-appreciation classes.