Before and After: Attic Renovation From Unfinished to Walk-in Closet

400 square feet of 3-1/2 inch by 16-inch insulation
80 square feet of 6-1/2 inch by 16-inch insulation
14 sheets beadboard
Four sheets 3/4-inch OSB (oriented strand board)
16 linear feet Berber carpet
50 linear feet baseboard
48 liner feet closet shelf
40 2x4s
3-1/2 inch galvanized nails
2-1/4 inch galvanized nails
2-inch finish nails
lighting kit (track or recessed)

Tools:

air compressor with hoses
brad gun
circular saw
dust masks
framing nailer
measuring tape
pencil
power miter box
safety glasses
utility knife

1. First, decide on the orientation of the closet. Be sure to keep in mind headroom, storage needs and standard closet allowances. Normal hanging height for clothes is 40 inches. If you want a double hanging clothing rod, you’ll need at least 80 inches. A tall rod for dresses and coats needs to be mounted 60 to 70-inches high.

2. Make sure the joists in the attic are suitable to carry weight. Depending on the span, you’ll need at least a 2x8 joist under foot for flooring. Decide on the size of floor, then remove insulation from between joists in that area. (Do not add insulation between heated spaces.) Be sure to wear a dust mask, gloves and long-sleeve shirt when working with fiberglass insulation.

3. Lay out 3/4-inch OSB (oriented strand board) for the floor deck (figure A). Nail the OSB down and make sure to make cuts to allow for walls of the closet. This allows the floor to be pulled up easily if you ever need to get to the space below to make repairs.

4. Frame the side walls using 2x4s placed on 24-inch centers. Use a single bottom plate and a single top plate. Cut the tops of the 2x4s to match the angle of the roof using a miter saw (figure B). The walls for this project were set at 80-inches high to allow for a double row of hanging clothes. Be sure to leave an access door to each side of the attic.

5. Insulate the walls and ceiling using minimum R-13 insulation (figure C). Make sure to leave airspace above the insulation in the rafters to allow for airflow through the attic.

6. Cover the walls with 3/4-inch OSB before finishing (figure D. Using OSB instead of drywall allows you to screw in racks and accessories without having to find a wall stud. Cut the OSB to size using a circular saw.

7. Cut beadboard ceiling panels to fit and attach to the ceiling joists (figure E). Apply construction adhesive to the joists, then nail the panels into place.

8. A single bulb on a string is probably not going to provide adequate lighting. In this case, track lighting or recessed lighting was installed using existing wiring.

9. After installing lighting, cover the ceiling with beadboard. Try to line up the beadboard lines across the walls and ceiling.

10. Install the trim in the corners, both the vertical corners and the horizontal seams between the ceiling and walls. Cut the baseboard to fit but do not install it yet. Nail everything but the baseboard in place with the finish brad gun and caulk all seams.

11. Paint the baseboard.

12. Lay the carpet in place and cut to fit using a utility knife.

13. Nail the pre-painted baseboard in place and touch up the paint if necessary.

14. Hand the shelves according to manufacturer's instructions.