4. Using a jigsaw, cut more of the plywood into a 3x3-inch L-shape to sit at the end of the top to accept the butcher block (figure C). Two L-shapes will go respectively on the very sides of the top compartment. Using plywood, cut out two 3-1/2x5-inch blocks to act as stoppers for the sliding butcher block. Glue and nail them into place right behind the rails against either side, leaving a 1/2-inch gap between the top of the stopper and the top of the island. 5. With a table saw, cut some 3/4-inch oak planks into 1/4-inch strips to fit, as edges of the cubby holes. Glue and nail them into place.
6. Using a jigsaw, cut a circle in the final 73-1/4 by 25-5/8 inch beech butcher block that is about 1/2-inch less than the diameter of the stainless steel measuring bowl, and is 9 inches from one side of the top. Use the router to carve a 1/2-inch lip within the hole to accept the bowl. Sanding is required.
7. To create the cover for the hole, rub a pencil on a piece of paper across the hole to get an accurate diameter. Use that paper circle as a template to trace to butcher block. Cut out the circle, and use a stand-up sander to fit. For a tighter fit, router a 1/2-inch lip into the circle so it fits snugly in the inner hole.
8. Cut two cherry 3-3/4 by 35-1/4 inch English country legs with double-square ends to fit between 3/4-inch below the bottom of the island and the very top of the island using a chop saw.
9. To create leg supports, use a chop saw and table saw to cut oak planks that are 4-1/2 inches wide and 23-inches long. They will stick out from the bottom on either end of the island. Pre-drill supports and set screws in preparation for the legs. Screw the legs into the supports.
10. Cut braces from plywood that are about 4x4-inches under the butcher block to accept screws for countertop. Drill into the sides rather than straight through.