Like many gardeners, master gardener Paul James spends more time on weeding than on any other single gardening chore. Before tackling his weeds, though, he considers the types of weeds he'll be battling, where they're located and which methods to use. He rarely uses herbicides, and then only all-natural formulas, such as those made from the salts of fatty acids, corn gluten derivatives, vinegar and even boiling water.
James share the following tips for weeding:
- For an area with many shallow-rooted, small weeds, simply rake the area and leave the uprooted weeds to die.
- For weeds in and around other plants, a small hand rake is the best tool, or simply pull them out by hand.
- For weeds in hard-to-reach areas, use a four-pronged cultivator, whose narrow width is ideal for cramped spots.
- For weeds with long taproots, like Queen Anne's lace and dandelions, use a gardening knife to loosen the soil around the roots and then gently pull out the weed, including the roots.
- In an open, unmulched area, the tool of choice is a scuffle hoe, which you push and pull across the ground to sever the weeds below ground level. The harder you push, the deeper it goes. Be sure to sharpen the blades periodically with a file.
- For weeds that grow up through plants, loosen the roots with a screwdriver before pulling them up by hand.
But don't go overboard trying to eradicate every last one, says James. "Weeds are among the most important plants in a landscape. They are, after all, a vital source of food, cover and nesting sites for insects, including beneficial insects. And some weeds are just plain pretty. So rather than insisting on a goal of zero tolerance, consider letting a few weeds go, here and there, but cut the stalks before they go to seed. And the next time you spray some spurge or dig up a dandelion, remember that you're also upsetting the delicate natural balance that exists in your little corner of the world."
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