Whole-House Vacuum System

Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-810 -- More Projects »
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VIDEO: Click the image above for a brief video about installing a central vacuum system.
The benefits of a whole-house vacuum system include convenience and better performance.

Starting Out

  1. We began by making a visual inspection of the home. We laid out a design where we could successfully run the tubing. We also measured and recorded the length of tubing required for the system. In a two-story house, the tube system's main trunk line maybe run horizontally from one end of your house to the other, usually through the basement ceiling or crawl space--then it branches out to connect the inlet lines which drop vertically like plumbing to the inlet locations. Because this house had a stacked wall-in-line, we decided to cut a hole in the wall to provide access between the first and second floor.
  2. At the chosen location in the garage, we used a stud finder to locate a wall stud to anchor the power unit to.
  3. To mount the unit we marked the wall at 37-1/2 inches and 49 inches up from the floor for the placement of the mounting bracket.
  4. Next, we drilled pilot holes into the wall studs and then screwed in the mounting screws. We tightened the screws, leaving about 3/16-inch clearance between the head of the screws and the wall.
PHOTO

Figure A (Click to enlarge)
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Figure B (Click to enlarge)
  • Next, we hung the power unit onto the mounting screws (figure A) making sure the slots in the mounting bracket were engaged behind the mounting screws.
  • Finally, we slid the rubber connectors into place (figure B) to later attach the intake pipe .

    * Don't mount the main unit near a source of heat such as furnace or water heater.

    * As an estimate, assume 600 to 750 square feet per inlet to
    determine the number of inlets you'll need.

  • To determine the ideal locations for the wall inlets, we found areas that were accessible and convenient to use. We chose central locations on interior walls. Hallways , the bottom of stairs and areas near doorways are usually good spots.
  • PHOTO

    Figure C (Click to enlarge)
  • Using a tape measure (a 30-foot piece of string is a good substitute) we approximated the length of the hose and made sure it would reach all parts of the floor and ceiling and gave us enough room to allow the hose to get around furniture (figure C). We continued to use this method until all the cleaning inlets were identified.

    * When planning a layout, try to avoid any in-wall obstacles such as wiring, ductwork or insulation .

  • PHOTO

    Figure D (Click to enlarge)
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    Figure E (Click to enlarge)
    Install the Inlets
    1. On the main floor, we used a stud finder to locate the area between the studs . At our marked locations, using an auger bit we drilled one hole into the baseboard and looked for obstacles (figure D).

      * In our installation, we placed the inlets in the baseboards. Your installation may differ.

    2. We then used a reciprocating saw to cut into the baseboard to make a square hole to fit the inlet (figure E).
    3. Next, to identify the location for the intake stub for the inlet, we drilled a small hole (mention drill bit/coat-hanger wire) down into the crawl space.

      * Be sure the area under the house is free of obstacles before drilling into the crawl space.

    4. From the crawl space we located the hole. Using a right-angle drill, we drilled a hole up into the wall plate.
    5. On the second floor, we established the location for an inlet in the hallway. We drilled through the ceiling up into the attic and inserted a long piece of wire so we could find the area to drill our hole for the intake stub once we went up into the attic.

      * Check the attic before drilling to make sure the area is clear .

    6. Up in the attic we located the wire and removed the insulation then drilled the hole we needed to feed the tubing to the inlet.

      * Inlets might not go in baseboard ; place at the same height as phone and electrical outlets.

      * When making access holes, be sure to drill in center of 2x4; otherwise, you might miss the wall cavity.

    PHOTO

    Figure F (Click to enlarge)
    PHOTO

    Figure G (Click to enlarge)
    PHOTO

    Figure H (Click to enlarge)
    PHOTO

    Figure I (Click to enlarge)
  • Using a hacksaw, we cut the pieces of plastic tubing to length (figure F) and removed any burrs with a utility knife.
  • Then we used a utility knife and tin snips to cut the flexible tubing (figure G).
  • Next, we applied PVC glue to the stop coupling and flexible tubing (figure H) and joined them together.
  • Then we attached the stop coupling to the PVC tubing (figure I).
  • Next, we attached the 18 gauge power wiring to the tubing with electrical tape. Tuck at least six inches of wire into the tubing, then secure the rest of the wire to the outside of the tube. That way, you'll be sure to have enough wire to connect to the inlet once the tubing is in place.
  • PHOTO

    Figure J (Click to enlarge)
  • We started pushing the tubing down the hole (figure J). We continued gluing and connecting additional tubing until we reached the inlet. Generally, you will need 16 to 20 feet of tubing per inlet.
  • With the flexible inlet tubing through the hole we removed the low voltage wiring from the tube.
  • We applied PVC glue to both the inside of the flexible tubing and the outside of the supplied mounting bracket and joined the pieces twisting them together to spread the glue.
  • We aligned the mounting bracket horizontally and allowed the glue to set for about five minutes. We then attached the remaining mounting plates.
  • PHOTO

    Figure K (Click to enlarge)
    PHOTO

    Figure L (Click to enlarge)
    PHOTO

    Figure M (Click to enlarge)
  • We pulled the low voltage wires through the wiring hole on the mounting plate (figure K). Then we stripped the wires and connected them to the screw terminals on the inlet cover (figure L). Make sure the wires are tightly secured under the terminal screws.
  • Holding the mounting plate at the cutout, we angled the plate and pushed it into the cutout. Then we pushed the cover plate into the mounting plate (figure M) and secured it with screws. this sandwiches the wall between the mounting plate and the cover plate. We completed this installation on all of the wall inlets.

    * Have a helper in the attic, basement or crawl space to pull on the tubing to help position the mounting plate in the wall.

  • PHOTO

    Figure N (Click to enlarge)
    PHOTO

    Figure O (Click to enlarge)
    Install the Trunk Lines
    1. Beginning in the garage, we cut access holes for the trunk lines using a 2-1/2 " hole saw so we could connect to the power unit. Then in the attic at the inlet line farthest from the power unit, we added two 45-degree "sweep" elbows to a short piece of PVC tubing (figure N). Next, we attached the short piece of PVC with two long lengths of tubing together to start the trunk line.

      * A "sweep" fitting has a more gradual curve than standard fittings.

    2. At a branch line, we added a 90-degree elbow and horizontal piece, then added a "sweep" T-fitting, and connected them to the trunk line (figure O).
    3. After all the tubing was run, we needed to connect the network of tubing to the power unit. We connected to the tubing from the crawl space by adding additional tubing and an elbow then ran it to the access holes in the wall. Next, we connected the tubing to the power unit. Finally, we made sure the power unit was unplugged and connected the low voltage wire to the unit.
    Resources
    central cleaning power unit & accessories - NuTone
    CV653 Advantage Series Power Unit
    CH235 crush-proof hose, CI-390W electra valve, CI-365W vac pan (automatic dustpan inlet), CK120 deluxe tool set
    NuTone Inc.
    Website: www.nutone.com
    Guests
    Lance Ordway
    Bonded Sales Representative
    Lordway Enterprises
    447 Speedway Rd.
    Hartwell, GA 30643
    Phone: 770-983-3259
    Toll Free Phone: 800-260-8650

    Bob Hasty
    Representative
    Broan-NuTone, LLC
    Madison and Red Bank Rds.
    Cincinnati, OH 45227-1599
    Phone: 262-673-4340
    Toll Free Phone: 800-543-8687
    Fax: 262-673-8638
    Also in this Episode