If you'd like to convert part of your basement into a living area, you can do it easily by building a partition wall.
Materials:
hammer
measuring tape
chalk line
framing square
speed square
level
2"x4" lumber
drywall tools
straightedge
hammer
sixteenpenny nails
drill, with drill bits and driver bits
1-1/2" drywall screws
2"x4" lumber
1/2" drywall
drywall joint compound
drywall knife
utility knife
drywall mesh tape
drywall paper joint tape
drywall metal corner bead
work gloves
dust mask or respirator
safety glasses
Steps:
- Determine where to place your first wall by marking two spots at an equal distance from an existing wall. Use a framing square to help make sure your measurements are perpendicular to the existing wall. Then snap a chalk line between the two marks.
- Cut a 2"x4" board to length and place it along the line to use as the sole plate. Mark the stud locations on the sole plate so that the studs will be 16 inches apart from center to center. If you're extending the wall past a steel post, be sure to continue from your last mark rather than using the post as a new reference point. Use a speed square to help you make your marks (figure A).
- Mark the sole plate at the center of the doorway. You may want to use an existing door as a reference when you determine where to put the door. Then add 2-1/2 inches to the width of the door (to allow for the door frame), and mark the sides of the doorway.
- Mark the locations for the jack studs, which support the door header; then measure out 1-1/2 inches on each side to mark for the king studs, which go all the way to the ceiling to support the wall.
- Attach the sole plate to the floor with nails or masonry screws. Place a nail or screw between each stud mark.
- Mark the existing wall for the end stud. Use a level to be sure the stud is plumb (figure B).
- Hold the end stud in place and dry-fit a 2"x4" board between the end stud and the ceiling to use as a top plate (figure C). If the wall is a load-bearing wall, the top plate will consist of two 2"x4" boards nailed together.
- Secure the end stud to the wall with concrete nails. Then secure the top plate to the ceiling (you may need to use drywall anchors if no studs are present above the top plate), and toenail it through the top of the end stud (figure D).
- Start installing the studs by toenailing them to the sole plate. Make sure each stud is plumb before nailing it to the top plate. Toenail the studs through the outside edges first; then toenail them from the inside edges.
* Check the end of each stud to determine the direction of the tree rings (known as the bowl or crown), and install the studs so that the rings all point in the same direction.
- Attach the king studs by toenailing them in place in the designated areas. Use your door to measure for the jack studs, which should be 1/2 inch longer than the height of the door. Cut the jack studs to size and attach them to the king studs.
- Measure the distance between the king studs and cut two 2"x4" boards to that length. Place one of the 2"x4" boards on top of the jack studs and nail it in place; then nail the second board on top of the first one.
- Cut cripple studs (short pieces of 2"x4") to fit between the header and the top plate. Attach one cripple stud in the center (figure E) and two next to each king stud.
- Use a reciprocating saw to cut out the sole plate from the door opening.
- After you finish framing the partition walls, you can prepare for framing over the masonry block walls. Apply a good coat of waterproofing over the area of the block wall that's below grade (where the ground is on the other side of the wall). This will prevent water from getting on your drywall.
- If your block walls have plumbing or other utilities attached, you'll need to build your partition wall far away enough to enclose the pipes. For smooth walls, you can attach the framing directly to the masonry blocks.
- Frame the partition walls next to the masonry block walls. If you're not attaching the partition wall directly to the masonry blocks, you can assemble the wall using the same procedure used for the first wall. You may need to notch out some of the studs to accommodate plumbing pipes (figure F). For smooth walls, attach the top plate and sole plate flat against the wall; attach the studs flat against the wall as well.
* You can frame a window the same way you framed the doorway with the exception that the window will have a sill plate with cripple studs between it and the sole plate. The window frame should be flush with the window opening.
- After the framing is complete, you can wire the new room for electricity and other utilities. You may want to hire a licensed electrician for this job.
- When the wiring is complete, it's time to hang the insulation (be sure to wear gloves and breathing protection). Start by gluing 3/4-inch sheet insulation between the studs attached to masonry blocks (figure G).
- Next, staple fiberglass insulation between the studs (figure H). The craft paper side of the insulation should face into the room.
- Prepare to install the drywall by marking the ceiling and floor at each stud; that way you'll know where to attach nails or screws.
- Use drywall screws to attach drywall panels to the framing. The drywall screws should go in far enough to dimple the paper without tearing it. Attach the top panels first so that they're snug against the ceiling. For doorways and windows, attach the entire sheet of drywall over the opening, and trim it with a drywall saw.
Attach the bottom panels after all of the top panels are in place. When you have to cover a receptacle box, just measure out its location (figure I) and transfer the measurements to the drywall; then cut out an opening. Be sure to measure the locations of all sides of the box.
* To cut drywall in a straight line, mark a line on one side and score it with a utility knife and straightedge. Then snap the drywall in two along the line and cut the remaining paper loose.
- When all of the drywall has been attached, you can begin applying the drywall joint compound. Use a drywall knife to apply a liberal amount of compound along each seam; then apply a piece of paper drywall tape on top of the compound (figure J ). Apply more joint compound over the tape and smooth it out. Cover all the screw heads as well.
- For inside corners, apply joint compound on either side of the seam (figure K ) and press drywall tape into the compound. Then use your drywall knife to smooth out any wrinkles. After the compound dries, you can apply another coat on top of the tape. You may want to use an inside-corner joint compound knife for crisp corners.
- Allow the compound to dry (usually within 24 hours). After it dries, you'll need to sand it smooth and apply a second coat. You may need to repeat this process two or three times before achieving a seamless look.
- When the drywall is smooth, you can prime and paint it.
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