Chain Link Fencing

Chain Link Fence Installation

Tools

fence mesh and hardware
wooden stakes
mallet
string
post hole digger or power auger
tape measure
concrete
shovel
level
pipe cutter
come-along winch
pliers
wood block

Steps

1. Call before you dig. Check your local phone book for the number (usually at the front of the book). This ensures you don't cause electrical or sewage problems when you dig post holes. Also check with your local building code department to make sure your fence falls within local guidelines.

3. Use a post-hole digger or power auger to dig holes. Not only does a power auger save you a great deal of effort, it is convenient when measuring depth for the post holes. To dig all holes to the same depth, measure from the end of the bit to the point on the bit equal to the desired depth (figure B).

4. Dig two-foot-deep holes for the end, corner and gate posts because these posts will carry the tension when the fencing is stretched. Line posts only have to be dug one foot deep because these posts aren't load bearing.

6. Set the end, corner and gate posts first, followed by the line posts. With the posts held in place, fill the hole with concrete until about three inches from the ground (figure D). Check the plumb and alignment of each post using a level. After 20 minutes, check again to make sure the posts haven't shifted (figure E). Next, backfill and pack dirt around each post to ground level. Allow the concrete to cure for 24 to 48 hours.

7. Next comes the post hardware (figure F). The post cap is a dome-shaped object that goes over the corner post. Line post caps (loop caps) have a loop at the top where the line runs through. Rail ends, brace bands and tension straps are also necessary.

8. Onto each corner and end post, slide a tension band, a brace band (to anchor the top rail) and a post cap. Bolt only the brace band on the post using a socket wrench (figure G). You may need three or four tension straps depending upon the height of the fence.

9. Using a mallet, drive the post caps on the end and corner posts. Use the mallet to next add the loop caps onto the line posts. Make sure that the loop caps tilt toward the outside of the fence, since this is the side that will contain the chain link (figure H).

10. Now that the caps are on, the next step is putting the top railing on. Make sure the top rail is tight where it fits into each other piece. Measure the distance between each post to determine the length of the top rail and cut it with a pipe cutter. Fit the sections together. Starting at an end post, feed the top rail section through the loop cap at each line post, then bolt the rail to the terminal brace band (figure I). Do this for each length of fence, then tighten all braces.

11. Next, attach chain link mesh (figure J). This can be the most challenging stage, because the mesh must be stretched tight around the entire perimeter. Your life will be made easier with a come-along winch (figure K). This is attached to a pull bar at one end, allowing you to pull the mesh nice and tight.

12. First, unroll mesh and run a tension bar through the first links of the mesh. Attach the mesh by bolting the tension bar to the tension bands on the terminal post (figure L). Align the mesh two inches above the top rail and flush to the ground. Next, insert a pull bar through the mesh a few feet from the opposite end post. Attach the winch to the pull bar (with the other end attached to a tree or sturdy post) to tighten the mesh (figure M). Crank the winch until the mesh is taut, then insert another tension bar to fasten to the next post.

13. Tighten the bolts on the tension bands with a socket wrench, then remove the pull bar. Once all the mesh is taut, use wire ties (figure N) to attach the mesh to the top rail. Space ties about 12 to 18 inches apart along the rail. Use pliers for this job.

14. Finally, time for the gate. Be sure not to set the gate on the ground when attaching it--leave yourself at least an inch of space above the ground so it won't drag. First, install the hinge pins on the gate post spaced evenly from the top and bottom (figure O).

15. Resting the gate on a wood block, align and mark the position for the hinge straps on the gate. Attach the hinge straps to the gate at the marked positions, both top and bottom. Install the gate on the post by lifting the top hinge strap under the top hinge pin (figure P). Check ground clearance, then tighten hinge bolts. Finally, attach the latch.

16. This project costs around $700 and took two days, so it can be done over a weekend!