Fiberglass Tub/Shower

Equipment list:
Pipe wrench
Slip-joint pliers
Tape measure
Screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Level
Drill, with drill bits and hole saws
PVC cement
Blowtorch kit
Fiberglass tub unit
Drain assembly
Flip valve assembly
Diverter assembly
P-trap drain assembly
Safety goggles
Work gloves

1. Assemble the components of the trip lever/waste assembly according to the manufacturer's instructions (figure A), but leave the connections loose enough that you can easily reposition the assembly.

2. From the back of the tub, fit the rubber gasket in the top portion of the drain assembly into the upper hole, which is used for the trip lever. Align the bottom portion of the assembly with the tub drain hole.

3. Install the drain in the bottom of the tub. First, place a thick bead of plumber's putty around the bottom of the drain flange (figure B). Then screw the drain loosely into place.

4. Install the trip lever by feeding the assembly (figure C) through the upper hole in the tub. Fasten the trip lever to the tub with screws.

Mount the fiberglass tub and shower unit

1. Set the unit in position and check for plumb and level. Use wooden shims to adjust the unit as necessary.

2. Secure the unit to the wall with screws.

Install the spout and diverter

1. Draw a perpendicular line in the center of the back of the tub.

2. Draw a horizontal line at a height that will allow the spout to be one inch above the top of the tub, as required by many building codes (figure D).

3. Mark a spot above the spout for placing your diverter, which turns the water on and off.

4. Drill pilot holes from the back of the tub.

5. Use hole saws to cut the appropriate size holes from the front of the tub.

6. Wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the copper fittings and install them in the diverter.

7. Snap the plastic support piece onto the diverter (figure E) and fit the diverter through the back of the tub. Secure the diverter by fastening the escutcheon plate from the front of the tub.

8. Cut a pipe to connect the bottom of the diverter to the spout. When you make your measurement, subtract one inch to compensate for the size of the fittings.

Connect the main water supply

1. Turn off the main water supply and remove any caps from the ends of the water lines. If the caps are soldered in place, just heat them with a torch and pull them off.

2. Cut as many pieces of pipe as necessary to install the water supply lines to the sides of the diverter. Be sure you attach the lines to the appropriate fittings. You can connect the pieces of pipe by using compression fittings or by soldering (also known as "sweating") them into place.

* When sweating joints, try to make most of your fittings before you install them on the tub. This will help minimize the risk of damaging the tub with the torch.

3. Install the shower riser pipe from the top of the diverter. Secure the top of the shower riser to a support block placed between two wall studs.

4. Install water-resistant drywall around the tub enclosure. You will need to install 1/4" shims on the studs closest to the tub to compensate for the thickness of the flange of the unit.

Install the P-trap

1. From underneath the tub, dry-fit the P-trap assembly (figure F) to make sure everything will fit properly.

- Install the brass adapter fitting to the drain tailpiece and loosely connect the brass adapter to the bottom of the tub.

- Install the P-trap onto the tailpiece.

- Install a horizontal pipe to the P-trap and attach the other end of the pipe to the main drain line. You may need to use a reduction fitting for a proper connection.

2. After you're sure the P-trap assembly will fit, complete the installation using PVC cement.

- Apply the cement by smearing it around the surfaces to be connected.

- Press the fittings together, give them a half-turn and hold for about 25 to 30 seconds.