If you're tired of your old vinyl bathroom floor and want to upgrade to a more elegant look that will last for years, you might want to consider installing a granite tile floor. The tiles are available in a wide variety of colors and sizes; just be sure to get tiles that are matted or textured so you won't slip on them when they 're wet. According to
Fix It Up's Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks, you can usually tile a 5'x8' room for less than $600.
Materials:
granite tiles
wet saw
drill, with drill bits and driver bits
galvanized all-purpose screws
hammer
nails
straight board
straightedge
circular saw
measuring tape
grout
grout float
concrete backer board
notched trowel
thin-set mortar adhesive
grout sponge
grout sealant
lint-free cloth rags
chalk line
framing square
fiberglass mesh tape for tile
tile spacers
safety glasses
dust mask
rubber gloves
Steps:
* Bring your tiles inside at least 24 hours before you install them, and take them out of the boxes so they can adjust to the temperature in your home. This will also allow you to verify that you have the correct style and color and that you have enough tiles to cover the floor. If the tiles are dusty, wipe them with a damp cloth; dust can reduce the effectiveness of the adhesive.
- Measure the area of the floor you'll be tiling. Multiply the length times the width and add an additional 5 percent to allow for broken tiles or errors.
- Transfer the measurements of the room onto a concrete backer board. Because the edge of the backer board is rough, you'll need to measure 1-1/2 inches from the edges and mark cutting lines with a straightedge (figure A).
* Make sure the seams of the backer board won't line up with the seams of the subfloor.
- Cut the backer board to size with a circular saw.
- Dry-fit the backer board over the subfloor (figure B), and mark a cutout for the toilet opening (figure C).
- Score the backer board with a utility knife, and break out the hole with a hammer (figure D).
- Use a notched trowel to apply thin-set mortar to the subfloor (figure E).
- Set the backer board in place and secure it with galvanized screws (figure F). Place the screws about eight inches away from each other.
- Spread a two- to six-inch line of thin-set mortar over each of the backer board seams (figure G). Place mesh tape over the seams (figure H), and apply a second layer of mortar.
* If the thickness of the tile is going to raise the floor so much that the door won't open or close, you'll need to cut off the bottom of the door. This may also be a factor with your vanity, which will seem lower after the tiles are installed if it's not placed on top of the tiles.
- Mark the center of the room. To locate the center of the room, first measure and mark the center of two opposite walls and snap a chalk line between the two marks . Repeat the process for the other two opposite walls. The point at which the chalk lines cross is the center of the room (figure I). Use a framing square to be sure the lines are square with one another.
- Dry-fit the tiles, starting at the center. Be sure to use spacers to adjust for the grout lines. If you find that the tiles next to the walls are going to be very thin, you can adjust the position of the center tiles so that the edge tiles will be larger.
- When you're sure you've got the tiles positioned the way you want them, pick them up from the floor and attach a straight board in the middle of the floor (figure J) along the edge where the first tile will be installed. The board will help support the tiles and keep them straight as you install them.
- Starting in the center of the room, use a notched trowel to spread thin-set mortar over the concrete backer board (figure K). Work in small sections (if you mix more mortar than you can use, it will harden before you can spread it).
- Set the first tile in place using a twisting motion to seat it firmly. When placing adjacent tiles, use plastic spacers to help maintain a straight grout line (figure L). You might also want to check the layout with a framing square occasionally to make sure your lines are straight.
* Some tiles will need to be trimmed to fit around drain openings and along the walls. To trim the tiles, use a wet saw, which has a diamond-edged blade cooled by water.
- After the mortar begins to set, remove the spacers and wipe away any mortar that 's worked its way up between the tiles
- Mix your grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Most grouts are mixed to the consistency of peanut butter or toothpaste. Be sure to wear gloves when handling grout; it can irritate your skin.
- Scoop out a dollop of grout with your grout float. Then spread the grout over the tiles. Hold the grout float at a 45-degree angle (figure M) and work the grout as far into the joints as possible.
- Scrape off excess grout with the float and allow the grout to set up. After it 's cured for about 20 minutes, give the tiles a good cleaning with a damp sponge. Keep the sponge clean and damp, and be careful not to pull grout out of the joints.
- After the grout has dried, buff and polish the tiles with a soft dry cloth (figure N).
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