Vanity Top and Sink

Installing a molded one-piece sink and vanity will update your bath and give it a more finished look, all in one step. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F

Solution: You could replace the sink and the countertop separately, but a molded one-piece sink and countertop will be easier to clean and to install. This is also a good time to upgrade your faucet.

Materials:
molded one-piece sink and vanity
faucet and drain kit (optional)
utility knife
slip-joint pliers
adjustable wrench
drill with Phillips driver bit
caulking gun with caulk
plumber's putty
Teflon tape

1. Measure your existing sink cabinet to determine how large your one-piece vanity and sink should be. Remember to measure the height of your existing vanity; if the new one is lower than the original, you'll have to repaint or re-wallpaper after your new vanity is installed.

2. Turn off the water to the sink, and open the faucet to make sure the water is off. Place a bucket under the P-trap beneath the sink to catch any water left in the pipes.

3. Use slip-joint pliers to loosen and remove the P-trap. Let any water left in the trap drain into the bucket.

4. Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect both water lines leading to the faucet.

5. From underneath the sink, remove any screws holding the countertop in place. You may also need to cut through old adhesive holding the countertop onto the cabinet.

6. Use a utility knife to cut through the caulking where the countertop meets the wall. The countertop and the sink should lift off now in one piece.

7. Whether you choose to upgrade your faucet at this point or not, you'll still need to install the faucet and drain in the new sink before you secure the new counter to the cabinet.

8. Remove the bottom piece of pipe from the drain assembly (figure A) and wrap the threads with Teflon tape. Then reassemble both pieces of the drain.

9. Remove the drain flange from the top of the drain; then form a roll of plumber's putty and press it underneath the lip of the flange (figure B).

10. Place the flange over the drain hole in the sink, and reattach the rest of the assembly from underneath.

11. Turn the drain assembly so that the drainpipe opening for the pivot rod faces the back of the sink (figure C).

12. Tighten the large nut under the drain until the putty squeezes out around the drain flange.

13. Insert the faucet into the holes pre-drilled by the manufacturer. Hand-tighten the plastic nuts on the threaded supply ends from under the sink (figure D ).

14. Insert the stopper into the drain flange. From underneath, insert the pivot rod into the hole in the back of the drainpipe (figure E), and hand-tighten the nut that holds the rod in place.

15. Insert the lift rod for the drain into the appropriate hole in the faucet.

16. A strap called a clevis will connect the pivot rod and the lift rod. Attach the clevis to the lift rod with a thumbscrew. Push the pivot rod through the hole in the clevis that gives you the best usage of the drain stop, and secure the clevis to the pivot rod with a spring clip (figure F).

17. Attach water supply lines to the faucet before you put the new sink in place. Tighten the fittings with an adjustable wrench.

18. Run a bead of latex caulk along the front and back edges of the sink cabinet; then carefully set the countertop in place.

19. Reconnect the water supply lines to the shut-off valves, and reattach the P-trap to the new sink drain.

20. Turn on the water supply and let it run a minute to check for leaks around the drain and all line connections.

21. To ensure a watertight seal, apply a bead of caulk all the way along the back of the countertop where it meets the wall.