Install A Skylight Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-809 -- More Projects »
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 Figure A (Click to enlarge)
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 Figure B (Click to enlarge)
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We secured a ladder to stand on below the ceiling outline. Using a drywall saw, we started cutting along the lines on the ceiling (figure A). Once we had the drywall out, we marked the location dimensions of the skylight by holding a four-foot level against the edge of the drywall and plumbing it to the roof. Here we made a mark with our pencil (figure B). From that mark we measured 6-1/2" made a mark, then 27-1/2" and made a mark. These marks gave us the dimensions we needed for the skylight. Next, we used a hammer to drive 16d nails all the way up through the roof decking so we would know where to cut.
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 Figure C (Click to enlarge)
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 Figure D (Click to enlarge)
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Install the Skylight - We tacked plastic sheeting over the opening to protect the interior of the house before we started to cut the holes in the roof (figure C).
- Up on the roof we located the protruding nails we used to mark the location of the opening (figure D). Then, using a pry bar, we carefully removed the shingles from the location to expose the plywood underneath. We set the shingles aside so they could be reused.
- Next, using a 4-foot level as a straight edge, we marked the dimensions of the skylight from each nailed corner on the plywood.
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 Figure E (Click to enlarge)
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 Figure F (Click to enlarge)
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 Figure G (Click to enlarge)
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We then used a reciprocating saw to cut through the plywood, removing the roof material as we cut (figure E). Following the manufacturer's instructions, we bent the mounting brackets located on the side of the curb (figure F). Using the supplied screws, we then anchored the brackets to the frame of the skylights. For our application we used drywall scrap pieces for spacers; we nailed them to the truss to help line up the skylights in the opening. We carefully maneuvered and positioned the skylights into the roof cutout (figure G). The skylights should be positioned to allow for a full course of shingles below the skylight . We checked to make sure both skylights were aligned and level. Then with the supplied screws, we attached each side bracket to the roof. Be sure to screw into the rafters in the roof to securely attach the curb and skylight.
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 Figure H (Click to enlarge)
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Finally, we removed the three attached cladding pieces used to divert water ( figure H). We first cut strips of 30lb roofing felt to act as a moisture barrier on the roof and started wrapping the frame. We continued wrapping the sides of the curb overlapping strips as we worked. Be sure to start at the bottom and work your way up to ensure a watertight seal. We attached the felt to the roof with roofing nails.
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 Figure I (Click to enlarge)
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We then positioned the sill flashing at the bottom of the frame and nailed it into place. At each corner of the skylight, we installed one piece of step flashing, interweaving the step flashing with roofing material and nailing them to the side of the frame. We continued laying the step flashing up each side (figure I). Next, we replaced the cladding pieces using the supplied screws. Then we interlocked and overlapped the head flashing to the top casing attaching it with screws. Finally, we replaced the remaining shingles across the top of the skylight.
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 Figure J (Click to enlarge)
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 Figure K (Click to enlarge)
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Finish the Skylight - To start our framing we fastened sheets of drywall to the existing trusses using drywall screws (figure J); this drywall will help form the light shafts.
- Next, we needed to trim out the inside of the skylights. We added the trim and attached it using a pneumatic nailer (figure K).
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 Figure L (Click to enlarge)
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After we cut 2x4s for extra studs, we predrilled holes into the studs to minimize splits in the wood when screwing it into place. Then at the roof opening, we used 2-1/2" screws to secure the studs to the frame of the skylight well (figure L). We placed the studs so the drywall would be flush in the roof opening. We continued attaching the drywall panels to the shaft framing with short drywall screws. Next, using a taping knife, we spread a thin layer of joint compound along the entire length of a joint, covering all the seams and holes. Next, we pressed paper drywall tape into the wet compound and smoothed the tape out with the taping knife. You might want to wet the tape to help keep it from binding .
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 Figure M (Click to enlarge)
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With a wider taping knife, we applied a second layer of drywall compound over the tape, feathering the edges carefully (figure M). We then wiped away any excess compound and filled and smoothed out any dimples. We let the compound then dry according to the manufacturer's directions, then smoothed the joints with drywall sponges. We repeated the process until the drywall joints were perfectly smooth, then finished the job by priming and painting the drywall.
Resources skylights - Velux
Velux America, Inc.
Website: www.velux-america.com
Also in this Episode
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