Installing a Backyard Pergola

If you want to add some character to your backyard, a pergola is a classic look and an easy build. Try more high-speed projects with host Steve Watson from Don't Sweat It.

Don't Sweat It : Episode HDSWT-304 -- More Projects »
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Before: The backyard pool area lacked a homey feel.
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After: A pergola helps define an outdoor area for relaxing and entertaining.
Materials and tools:

1 bamboo ceiling fan
10-ft. 6x6 pressure treated posts (4)
16-ft. 2x8, pressure treated (10)
16-ft. 2x6, pressure treated (16)
6"x6" post anchors (4)
3/4" pressure treated plywood (2)
4 casters
1/2" acx plywood (2)
16 set 9" carriage bolts
tapcon bit
tapcon masonry screws
stain blocking primer (2 gallons)
paint (2 gallons)
painter's plastic
painting supplies
cordless drill with battery and magnetic screw tip
3/8" auger bit, 16" long
power miter box
jig saw
table saw
hammer
speed square
string line
level
tape measure
pencil
safety glasses
gloves

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Figure A
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Figure B
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Figure C
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Figure D
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Figure E
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Figure F
Steps:

1. First, set the post anchors. Start by measuring and marking the area you want to put under the pergola (figure A). In our case, we built a 16x12-foot pergola, so we set our posts to 13x9 feet. This allows for an 18 inch overhang on all sides.

2. Start by drilling thru the existing concrete pad and screwing the anchor down using tapcon screws (figure B).

3. Set the posts. Start by cutting each of the 6x6 posts to 9 foot lengths. Then, set the posts into the anchors and nail into place using joist-hanger nails.

4. Install the perimeter beams. Start by running a 2x8 around the perimeter of the area, from post to post (figure C).

5. Nail it into place, flush with the top of the post. Temporarily brace everything while you work, using scrap lumber for bracing.

6. After the outside beam is set, run another beam around the interior of the posts. You should end up with a beam, then post, then beam. Bolt these together using carriage bolts. The combination of the interior and exterior perimeter beams is called the "lintel".

7. The next step is just installing the rafters that span the lintels. First, cut a profile into both ends of the rafter using the jig saw, then toe-nail the rafters into the lintels. Install the rafters, spacing them on 16-inch centers (figure D).

Note: Since the weight is on top of the lintels, you simply need to secure the rafters to prevent moving, not to support the weight.

8. Next, install the purlins. These run across the top of the rafters to provide strength and to prevent the rafters from warping. The purlins should be spaced 32-inches on center (figure E).

9. Prime the wood using a stain blocking primer, then paint in the color of your choice (figure F).

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