Crown Molding Shelf Room by Room : Episode RXR-902 -- More Projects »
Materials: one 1" x 10" x 8' for top of shelf
one 1" x 8" x 8' for bottom of shelf
two 2" x 4" x 8' for spacers
one 12' piece of crown molding
circular saw
drywall screws
lag bolts
drill
countersink bit
finish nails
sanding sealer
stain of your choice
polyurethane
Steps: - First determine the length and width of your shelf. The materials listed will create a seven foot long, nine inch deep shelf. To prepare the top part of the shelf, set circular saw for a 35-degree angle and mark the length and width. Realize that once you add the crown molding, you will be adding a 1/2 inch to the depth and one inch to the length. Then, follow your markings, cutting a 35-degree angle around three sides of the board. The bottom of the shelf needs to be cut 1-1/2 inch narrower and three inches shorter than the top piece due to the angle of the crown molding (figure A). Don't angle these cuts; just make them straight with the circular saw.
- Cut the back spacer out of the 2 x 4 by cutting it in half to create two (2 x 2). Then for the front spacer, cut the face of the other 2 x 2 on the same 35-degree angle as the top shelf edge. This will add support for the crown molding and the shelf. If both spacers are about six feet long, that will do the trick.
To assemble the hollow shelf, start by laying the top of the shelf upside down on the bench. Center and line up the front support piece flush with the bevel edge of the top. Drill pilot holes into the support piece and, using drywall screws, attach the front support to the underneath side of the top. Then, line up the bottom of the shelf, drill pilot holes and nail the bottom to the front support piece (figure B) (you may want to set the back spacer in place to make attaching the front edge easier).
Cut the crown molding to size. Then, drill very small pilot holes to help keep it from splitting as it's added around the three sides. Countersink the nails (don't fill the holes up yet), sand the entire piece smooth with a 220-grit sandpaper (figure C), wipe with a tack rag, then add a sanding sealer to help even out the stain. Once it's dry, add the desired stain followed up with a couple coats of polyurethane.
To install the shelf, begin by finding the wall studs. Once found, mark them with tape, and draw a level line 3/4 inch lower than where you want the top of the shelf. This is where the back support will be mounted and you must leave space for the thickness of the top shelf. Drill pilot holes that coincide with your wall studs, into the 2 x 2 spacer/mounting board. Using lag bolts, screw the mounting board to the wall. Once secure, add decorative brackets 3/4 inch below the mounting board (figure D), and then slide the hollow shelf over the mounting board. When everything is centered and even, drill pilot holes into the shelf and down into the support board. Using a countersink bit, create space so the screw heads sink into the top. Then screw in the shelf securely to the wall. Finally, use matching wood putty to fill in all of the holes. Tip: Fill holes on stained projects after the entire project is finished, and then match the putty to the stain. If you putty the holes and then stain, the putty looks discolored.
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Media
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.hgtv.com/HGTV/2004/02/26/rxr902_1figA_shelfdemo_e.jpg",350,450))
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.hgtv.com/HGTV/2004/02/26/rxr902_1figB_spacers_e.jpg",350,450))
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.hgtv.com/HGTV/2004/02/26/rxr902_1figC_sandingshelf_e.jpg",350,450))
![PHOTO](javascript:popup("http://img.hgtv.com/HGTV/2004/02/26/rxr902_1figD_spacer_hangingshelf_e.jpg",350,450))
