Salvaged Dining Room Table

tongue-and-groove 2x6s (from reclaimed or salvaged lumber)
salvaged iron bands
2x4s
4x4s
nails or staples
carriage bolts
1-3/4 inch screws
dowel screws
sealer
stain
wood planer
pocket hole jig
clamp
nail gun or stapler
t-square ruler
hammer
block of wood
torch
distressing tools (various drill bits or chains)
table saw
circular saw
hand saw
router (with 1-1/4 inch rabbeting bit)
vice grip
paint brush
orbital sander
tape

Steps:

1. Surface the 2x6s by running them through a planer. This will skim the boards and give them a fresh surface.

2. When that’s done, fit the boards together by interlocking the tongue-and-groove sides. They don’t need to be completely even since the ends will be cut off flush later. To ensure that the boards are tightly compressed during the next steps, lay 2-inch strips of wood across the top and screw them on to the table surface. (In this project, screws were driven into the table top because the table was going to be distressed. Do not use this method if s smooth, clean finish is desired.)

3. Flip the table over to begin making the skirt frame. Rip down 17-1/3 inch 2x4s for the short end, 53-inch 2x4s for the long end, and 8-1/2 inch mitered pieces for the diagonal corners. Create pocket holes with the pocket jig and clamp so that the frame will later screw into the table.

5. Once the frame is assembled, screw the skirt into the table top through the pocket holes with 1-3/4 inch screws.

6. With a hand saw, chamfer 4 inches of one corner of each leg so they fit flush along the cross brace, as well as the rail and stile where they meet. Attach the legs through the cross brace with dowel screws (figure B).

7. Now that the skirt is complete, flip the table over and unscrew the 2-inch wood strips. Cut the top to the desired length with a circular saw. (This project was 72-inches long by 33-1/2 inches wide, which allowed for a 3-1/2 inch overhang on all sides from the skirt.)

8. If you’re going for an "Old World" feel with the table, distressing it will give it a great look. Try using various sharp implements that will make random holes and marks on the table, then follow it up with a torch for a charred look (figure C).

9. Mortise the area where the iron bands will fit by making a shallow cut with a circular saw that will be the outline of the bands. Go back with a router and remove the rest of the inlay area (figure D).

10. Bend the ends of the iron bands with locking pliers so they will hug the edges of the tabletop (figure E).

11. Carefully slip the iron pieces on using a hammer and block, gradually pushing it toward the center of the table until it reaches the routed area. Attach them with four carriage bolts (figure F).
Photo: CC205_SBS_TableImageF.jpg

12. Now it’s time for finishing touches. Seal the table, sand it down and stain it. Be sure to cover the iron with tape while staining to protect it.