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Plank Hardwood Flooring

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Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-1009 -- More Projects »
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By "floating" the hardwood floor, all that's needed is wood glue to secure the planks to each other.
Hardwood floors aren't as hard to install as you might think. Hosts Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks show how to create an extraordinary floor with plank hardwood flooring.

Installing a Hardwood Floor

Materials:

hardwood flooring
measuring tape
utility knife
pry bar
hammer
putty knife
gloves
safety glasses
floor scraper
screws or eightpenny nails (to secure the subfloor)
hand saw
broom
30 lb. felt
staple gun
pneumatic nailer
wood glue
damp cloth
baseboards and shoe mold (optional--to replace old molding)
caulk
paint (for molding)

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Figure A
Steps:

1. Carefully remove all furniture from the room so you can easily move around.

2. Begin taking measurements for the hardwood (figure A). You will need to add about 10 percent to your total for any mistakes you might make or boards that might be damaged. Don't forget to include closet space.

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Figure B
3. There are three types of hardwood flooring: strip, plank and square. Strip flooring (figure B) is among the most popular types. Tongue-and-groove flooring ensures a tight fit.
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Figure C
4. Plank flooring (figure C) is installed in this episode. The width can range from three to nine inches. Planks can be the same length or varying lengths to obtain a staggered look. Square flooring is literally small squares of glued wood that is slightly less expensive.
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Figure D
5. To remove the baseboards in the room, first score the caulk at the top of the baseboards with a utility knife. Use a pry bar, hammer and putty knife to pry away the baseboards (figure D), being careful not to damage them if you want to put them back up.
6. Pull the carpet up at one corner and carefully lift off the tack strips. Roll the carpet as you go along (figure E) so that it is easier to remove. Once the carpet is out of the room, remove the padding. Again use a pry bar and hammer, this time to remove the tack strips (figure F). Use gloves and safety glasses when dealing with the tack strips.
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Figure E
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Figure F
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Figure G
7. Next comes floor prep. In this case, the hardwood floor will be floated. Use a floor scraper to check for any staples that were missed or nail heads that need to be pounded back down into the particle board (figure G). Scrape off any old putty with a putty knife. Check the floor for raised floorboards and screw them back down. You are shooting for a smooth subfloor.
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Figure H
8. Use a hand saw to cut the door jams in the room (figure H). This allows you to slide the hardwood planks underneath the trim to create a smooth, finished look. Sweep the subfloor thoroughly.
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Figure I
9. Lay 30-pound felt on the subfloor (as recommended by the flooring manufacturer) and secure it with staples (figure I). Cut the felt to size using a utility knife.
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Figure J
10. Measure 12 inches out from the starting wall at opposite ends (figure J ), make marks, then pop a chalk line over the marks. Place the starter plank against the wall, then measure the distance from the edge of the board closest to the chalk line to the chalk line itself. Verify the distance is the same at several points, then use a pneumatic nailer to secure the piece in place.
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Figure K
11. Lay a second piece in place beside the first and secure it with the nailer (figure K). Although you are floating the floor, these planks have to be nailed so they won't shift as the rest of the planks are added.
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Figure L
12. Continue adding planks. Since you are floating the floor, all you have to do is add a bead of wood glue across the top of the tongue of the planks (figure L), then slide the next plank in place. It is important to make sure that the planks are snuggly seated against each other to prevent gaps. You can do this by tapping them with a hammer and using a scrap piece of wood as a buffer between the plank and hammer.
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Figure M
13. You do want to leave an 1/8-inch expansion gap around the perimeter of the room as suggested by the wood flooring manufacturer (figure M). Also, be sure to remove any glue that seeps through the cracks by using a damp cloth.
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Figure N
14. Once the floor is down, the finishing touches are all that's left. Attach the baseboards with a pneumatic nailer, with the nails going through the baseboards and into the wall studs (figure N).
15. Attach shoe mold with the nailer, making sure that the nails are seated just below the surface of the wood (figure O). Fill all nail holes in the molds with painter's putty. Run a bead of caulk along the top of the baseboards against the wall (figure P), then a bead between the baseboards and shoe molds. Finally, run caulk in all the corners.
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Figure O
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Figure P
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Figure Q
16. Add a coat of paint to the molding and you are finished (figure Q). This project takes a very long day or two days to finish and costs in the neighborhood of $2200.
Resources
hardwood flooring - Nordic American (Model #: Rappgo Nordic Maple Floor)
Nordic American Corp.
15 Plantation Dr.
Atlanta, GA 30324
USA
Phone: 404-252-0600
URL: www.homeportfolio.com
Also in this Episode
Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-1009
•Plank Hardwood Flooring
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