Vinyl floor installation is a good beginning project for do-it-yourselfers. There are very few steps, and no expensive tools are required. It usually makes a good weekend project.
Vinyl flooring is available in solid sheets or as individual tiles. Although sheet vinyl is more cumbersome than tiles, it has several advantages. For one thing, sheet vinyl can usually be installed over an existing floor. It also has no visible seams, whereas the seams in vinyl tiles sometimes expand and crack as the tiles shrink with age.
If you feel comfortable installing sheet vinyl flooring, you might be ready for a new twist: sheet vinyl flooring inlaid with a different style or color of vinyl flooring. And there's no need to be concerned about visible seams. You can seal them so the floor looks like a solid piece of vinyl.
Materials:
two rolls of vinyl flooring
sharp utility knife with extra blades
straightedge
chalk line
measuring tape
jamb saw
vinyl seam-sealing kit (contains an applicator and two separate solution components)
vinyl flooring adhesive
fine-toothed notched trowel
pencil and paper
vinyl floor roller
safety glasses
Steps:
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Many of these techniques can be applied to traditional sheet vinyl installation.
- Start by creating a diagram of the floor (figure A) to help you plan your installation. There's no limit to the number of different patterns you could design, but keep in mind that a vinyl inlay will require precision.
- Remove all of the appliances and furniture from the room. Remove any thresholds from doorways, and pull the base molding or shoe molding from the wall. Sweep or vacuum the floor thoroughly so that it's as clean, flat and smooth as possible. If you find a depression in the floor, you can fill it with latex filler.
* Many new vinyl floors are cushioned. Cushioned flooring can be installed over hard tiles or other solid surfaces. However, it should not be installed on top of cushioned vinyl because heavy furniture could puncture it.
- Locate the center of the room by measuring the distance between two opposite walls and marking the center point. Take the measurement in at least two different places, making sure your measuring tape is square against the wall. Then measure between the other two opposite walls and mark the center point. Snap a chalk line between each set of walls at the center points. The spot where the chalk lines cross is the center of the room.
- Determine the location for the center section of vinyl flooring by measuring from the chalk lines and marking the edges. Again, make sure the measurements are square, and mark the edges in at least two locations per edge for the most accurate measurement. Snap chalk lines across the marks to create the outline for your center section.
- Use a straightedge and utility knife to cut the center section to size. If your flooring has a square pattern, cut along the lines. You can adjust the size to match the pattern if necessary; however, be sure to dry-fit the vinyl and trace an outline around it so you'll know where to position it later. Make your cuts as straight as possible. If your vinyl has a random pattern, you'll need to be especially careful.
* For crisp edges, use a sharp blade to cut the vinyl. You'll probably need to change the blade frequently to make sure it's sharp. Once you begin your cut, don't lift your blade; otherwise, you could gouge the vinyl when you resume cutting.
- Begin cutting the vinyl that surrounds your center section. Again, cut each piece as straight as possible. Cut each strip a few inches too long on each side; that way, you can trim each piece to fit perfectly. Position the surrounding vinyl around the center section, and trim off the excess. Be sure to line up the patterns precisely if the surrounding vinyl has the same pattern as the center section.
- Dry-fit the flooring, and then begin gluing it down. Start by placing the center section in position and gently folding half of it off the floor (be careful not to crease it).
- Use a fine-toothed notched trowel (figure B) to apply vinyl-flooring adhesive to the exposed floor in the center section (figure C). Keep the adhesive at least five inches away from the outline on all sides; that way you won't accidentally squeeze the adhesive out from under the vinyl when you lay it down.
- Roll out the portion of the center section you just folded up (figure D ) and position it on the outline. Then fold the other half of the center section over and repeat the process. When the center section is in place, you can install the surrounding vinyl pieces.
* By only working with half of the center section at a time, the installation will be easier.
- Use a vinyl floor roller to smooth out the bubbles and press the vinyl firmly into the adhesive (figure E). Although the roller weighs 100 pounds, it rolls easily across the floor. Roll out one section of flooring at a time, but be careful not to roll back and forth over the same area because you could make a dent in the floor.
- Begin installing the perimeter vinyl. Cut each piece a few inches too long. Then you can push it against the corner of the wall and cut it to size precisely. Use a straightedge to push the vinyl into the corner (figure F), and cut all the way along the wall until you reach a door frame or some other obstacle. Keep in mind that the vinyl doesn't have to go all the way to the wall because it will be covered by the base molding. When you reach a corner, make a diagonal cut down to the floor (figure G) so you can push both sides into the corner at the same time.
* If you're installing your sheet vinyl in small sections, you can simply measure the distance from the edge of the installed vinyl to the wall and cut your perimeter sections to size. This will be easier than trying to press a narrow piece of vinyl into the corner.
- Dry-fit the perimeter pieces to be sure they're cut correctly. Then glue the vinyl to the floor.
- To make the separate pieces look like a solid sheet of vinyl, you'll need to seal the seams. Most vinyl seam-sealers are sold as two separate liquids that must be mixed together to activate the sealer. After mixing the two liquids, pour the sealer into the applicator. Press the tip of the applicator into the seam between two pieces of vinyl. Then, with moderate pressure, draw the applicator along the seam so the sealer comes out evenly (figure H). Over the next 24 hours, the sealer will fuse the urethane finish on the two pieces of vinyl for a seamless look.
* Don't walk on the vinyl floor for 24 hours after you finish. You could cause the vinyl to shift.
- Finally, replace all base molding and thresholds, and replace any appliances and furniture.
* Use the best quality of vinyl flooring you can afford, and be sure to use the glue and sealer recommended by the manufacturer.
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