Wouldn't it be nice if you didn't have to lug that heavy, noisy old vacuum cleaner around with you whenever you wanted to clean the carpets? As it turns out, you can install your own central vacuum system for the price of a high-quality portable vacuum cleaner (about $900 for a 1,500-square-foot house).
A central vacuum system uses a large vacuum unit, usually located outside the living area of the house, and a series of vacuum inlets where you can plug in lightweight vacuum attachments. Because the main unit is outside, the system produces less noise and dust than most portable cleaners do. Also, because the main unit is stationary, it can use a larger motor that produces more suction power than most portables. Another benefit is that a central vacuum system will increase the resale value of your home.
You might think that central vacuum systems can be installed only in new houses, but you can install one in your existing house. Here's how:
Materials: central vacuum system kit
Phillips- and flat-head screwdrivers
drill, with drill bits, drill extension and hole saw
hacksaw or large pipe cutter
sheet-metal cutter
level
hammer
flashlight
wire nuts
wire stripper
heavy-duty wire coat hanger
30' rope
PVC cement
safety glasses
Steps: - Start by installing the main unit (figure A) in a garage or other area not used as living space. You'll need to have an electrical outlet nearby, and in most cases you'll be mounting the unit to the wall. Simply attach the mounting bracket to the wall, and attach the unit to the mounting bracket. If possible, install the main unit in an area that will be easily accessible when you begin installing the main line of PVC vacuum tubing.
- Determine an area to install the inlets. Whenever possible, place each inlet near an electrical outlet so you won't have to plug in the vacuum hose and the power brush in two different locations. The hoses for central vacuum systems are typically about 25 feet to 30 feet, so you may be able to place the inlets in an area that will allow you to clean more than one room without moving the hose. To determine how far the hose will reach, secure a rope the same length as the hose to the inlet area, and stretch it into the rooms you plan to clean from that inlet. Make sure the rope reaches all the way into the far corners and has enough slack that you'll be able to work around furniture easily. The inlets need to be installed in the hollow space between two studs. You can locate this space by using a stud sensor or by tapping the wall (the hollow area will have a deeper, more resonant sound than the area directly over a stud).
- On the floor, measure a point two inches away from the wall and directly in front of the area where you plan to place the inlet. Use a 12-inch drill bit (you can use the straight section from a heavy-duty coat hanger if you don't have a bit that long) to drill straight down into the floor. Leave the drill bit in the hole, and then locate it from beneath the floor.
- From beneath the floor, measure and mark a point 4-1/2 inches straight back from the drill bit; this should be the point directly beneath the center of the wall. To make sure you've measured straight back, measure the distance from a floor joist to the drill bit, and then measure the distance to the point you've marked. The two measurements should be the same.
- Use a 2-1/2-inch hole saw (or other size as directed by your instruction manual) to drill straight up into the void behind the wall. In most cases, you'll need a long drill extension to reach all the way through the subfloor, floor and sole plate (the board that supports the wall studs). When you finish drilling, use a flashlight to look through the hole and make sure there are no obstructions such as wires or plumbing.
- Back at the vacuum inlet area, measure the distance from the top of the baseboard to the middle of the electrical outlet, and transfer that measurement to the location for the inlet hole. Place the inlet template (provided with the vacuum system) on the mark, use a level to be sure it's level and plumb, and trace around it. Then cut a hole along the lines using a drywall saw.
- Use PVC cement to attach a 90-degree-angle PVC joint to the back of the inlet mounting bracket. Be sure the open end of the PVC joint faces straight down. Tie a large nut to one end of a piece of low-voltage wire (figure B) and drop it behind the wall so that it falls through the hole in the floor. Cut the wire (be sure to leave yourself enough slack to work with) and thread it through the back of the mounting bracket. Then strip the wires and connect them with wire nuts to the wires from the front plate of the inlet valve.
- Fit the mounting bracket into the hole, and secure the plate to the wall with screws.
- Start the vacuum pipe installation by attaching the riser pipes, which are short pipes that rise from the main vacuum line to the vacuum inlets. From beneath the floor, measure up into the 90-degree elbow and add two inches to the measurement. You'll probably want to have someone help make sure the measuring tape goes all the way into the elbow. Then cut a piece of PVC vacuum pipe to fit into the elbow (if you use a hacksaw, be sure to smooth the burrs off the end--lint can get caught on the rough edges). Spread PVC cement around the outside end of the pipe, and thread the pipe up through the subfloor and into the elbow at the vacuum inlet (again, with a friend upstairs to make sure the pipe goes all the way into the elbow). Give the pipe a quarter-turn and hold it in place for a few seconds to allow the cement to cure. Repeat this process for all the inlets.
- The main trunk line comes in eight-foot sections and is connected with PVC couplings. Hang the line from the floor joists, beginning at the farthest inlet and going as straight as possible to the main unit. You'll probably have to cut through a wall to reach the main unit.
- After the trunk line is in place, you can attach the branch lines, which consist of long-radius 90-degree elbow connectors (figure C), Y-fittings (figure D ) and various lengths of PVC vacuum pipe. Be sure to get good coverage with the PVC cement when you connect the fittings together, because air leaks will reduce the pump's suction power. When connecting the Y-fittings to the main trunk, be sure that they point in the direction of the airflow. If they point against the airflow, lint and debris might catch on the sharp angle. In addition, keep your branch pipes elevated above the main trunk line so your system won't have to fight against gravity.
- When the branch lines are in place, you can connect the low-voltage wiring. Use wire nuts to splice the wires from the branches into the wire running to the main unit.
- Attach the trunk line to the main unit. Then strip the ends of the low-voltage wires and connect them to the unit. Plug the unit into an electrical outlet, and you're ready to go.
- To operate the system, simply plug the hose into the inlet and plug the power cord into an electrical outlet. A switch on the handle of the hose controls the main unit as well as any electrical attachments such as a power brush. The switch also has a valve that allows you to adjust the suction.
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