Eco-Friendly Composite Deck

Materials:

side-grooved decking
composite deck trim
composite deck posts
composite balusters
composite handrails (top/bottom)
mounting brackets
uni-ball connectors
2-1/2 inch stainless-steel deck screws
1-3/4 inch mounting screws
saber clips
3-inch screws.
1/2-inch diameter stainless-steel bolts.
foot block
chop saw
drill
7/32-inch drill bit
mallet
measuring tape
pencil
safety goggles
1/2-inch bolt bit

Steps:

1. Begin by removing old decking if necessary. Unscrew the old deck beams from the joists so as not to damage the deck frame.

2. Begin by placing the first post at the corner of the deck, just inside the rim joists. For this project, the post was placed between two boards that make up the rim joists. If there is a space between the joists and the post, use a shim to fill the gap.

4. Add placers (fillers) between the two rim joists. Secure these using 2-inch nails (figure B).

5. Next add the deck trim. Attach the trim to the outer deck frame joists using countersink screws (figure C). Use a jigsaw to cut out the post area when placing the trim around the posts to get a nice, snug fit.

6. Once the trim is placed, it’s time to lay the decking. Each piece of the composite decking contains groves along the center of each edge to allow the use of special clips that are attached to screws. Insert the clip into the groove and drill the screws down into the joist to attach the decking. This means there is no drilling into the actual composite decking (figure D).

7. Place the posts, trim and decking as you go.

8. If you're working on a bi-level deck, it is wise to add a lighter color trim piece to make the level change more noticeable (figure E). Attach the trim piece with countersink screws Instead of the clips and screws.

9. Measure and cut your railings to size for the banisters. Since the rails have pre-made pilot holes, make sure the distance between the end holes are the same distance from both ends of the post. This will assure correct spacing and alignment for the balusters.

10. Screw the round connectors into each pilot hole for the top and bottom rails (figure F).

11. If the rail is longer than 4 feet, add a foot block to the bottom. Cut the foot block to the desired height (no more than 4-inches high) and attach to the center of the bottom rail.

12. Pre-drill holes into the underside where the mounting brackets are located to attach the bottom rail. Use a 7/32-inch drill bit, and make sure the brackets are flush with the end of the rail. Attach the brackets using 1-3/4 inch mounting screws. Repeat this step for the top rail. Next, pre-drill holes into the posts and attach the bottom rail in place.

13. Install balusters over each round connector on the bottom rail.

14. Place the top rail over the balusters. Make sure the top rail connectors line up with the balusters. Use a rubber mallet to secure the top rail into position. Once in place, screw the pilot holes into the post, then attach the rail, again using 1-3/4 inch mounting screws (figure G).

15. Add the post tops by popping them in place (figure H).

16. Use countersink screws to attach the stair pieces into their joists (figure I).