How to Build an Attached Deck

Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-1006 -- More Projects »
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An attached deck is perfect for entertaining friends or relaxing and enjoying the weather. (click to enlarge)
Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks from Fix It Up! show how to plan and construct an attached deck.

Building an Attached Deck

Materials:

pressure-treated lumber
tape measure
sixteenpenny galvanized nails
hammer drill with mortar bit
bolts, nuts and washers
circular saw
level
chalk line
concrete (and wheelbarrow for mixing)
shovel and hoe
post anchors
joist hangers

Steps:

1. First off--check your local building codes and call before you dig (to avoid any underground utilities). These are suggestions for an elevated deck.

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Figure A (click to enlarge)
2. Begin by measuring for the height of the ledger board. Use a scrap piece of decking to make marks about three-quarters of an inch below the siding (figure A). Pop a chalk line between the marks. This will serve as the guide for the top of the board.

3. Temporarily tack the ledger board with sixteenpenny nails. Pre-drill 1-1/4 inch bolt holes into the ledger board and through the house framing. From underneath the house, drive in galvanized carriage bolts and secure them on the outside with washers and nuts. Insure that the ledger board is attached firmly--the majority of the deck framing will be anchored here.

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Figure B (click to enlarge)
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Figure C (click to enlarge)
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Figure D (click to enlarge)
4. Next comes the outer ribbon of the frame. Begin by attaching a 2x8 ledger board perpendicular to the house. Check for level, then temporarily secure it with a 2x4 post set on the ground. Use a second 2x4 on the opposite side. Next cut two 2x8's to span the length of the deck (figure B) and attach them to the first 2x8.

5. To check the level and insure that the deck frame is square, measure from one corner to the opposite corner. Then measure from the other corners to see that the measurements are the same (figure C). Tweak as you need to insure that the frame is square.

6. Time to set the posts. To set the posts above the grade, use shovels to dig footings strategically around the deck frame. Holes should be 16 inches by 16 inches and eight inches deep. Next, mix the concrete according to package directions, pour the concrete in the holes and fill to the top. Work with a hoe to remove any air bubbles (figure D).

7. Once the concrete has cured, start at a corner post and temporarily set the corner post on top of an anchor which has been positioned on the concrete. Mark around the anchor with a pencil, then remove the post. Next, mark the location for a bolt.

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Figure E (click to enlarge)
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Figure F (click to enlarge)
8. Using the drill and mortar bit, drill a hole into the concrete footing. Attach a bolt to the footing, then secure a post anchor and bolt it into place with a socket wrench (figure E).

9. Next, place the post into the anchor and nail it through the anchor. You will be cutting notches in each post so that it rests against the frame (figure F) and the two wood pieces are flush against each other.

10. The joists are next. They should be hung 16 inches on center at least. If you are considering a weighty object such as a hot tub, the joists should be hung 12 inches on center so that the deck is nice and strong. In this project, 12 inches is the mark.

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Figure G (click to enlarge)
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Figure H (click to enlarge)
11. Use a tape measure and pencil to mark every 12 inches on the outer rim. Nail the joists from the outside-in using sixteenpenny nails at each mark. Attach joist hangers for extra support and stability. With one side of the joists attached, install a second center beam and continue to install the joists and joist hangers until all are secure (figure G).

12. Decking boards come next. Attach them with galvanized screws, butting them up tight against each other (figure H). To insure that the boards are snug, you can blind nail a decking board against the joist by hammering the nail in at a downward 45-degree angle.

13. When all decking boards are in place, pop a chalk line and use a circular saw to cut off the excess board and obtain a nice straight edge. Add an outer band of wood trim along the entire perimeter using a drill and sixteenpenny nails and screws.

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Figure I (click to enlarge)
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Figure J (click to enlarge)
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Figure K (click to enlarge)
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Figure L (click to enlarge)
14. For a staircase, add stringers to a ground-level concrete pad and attach both of them to the trim with screws. After the risers and treads are cut to length, attach the risers using the galvanized screws once again. The treads come next, using two 5-1/4-inch decking boards for each tread (figure I). Treads are attached flush, or you can overhang them slightly past the riser (figure J). As an addition, a third stringer can be planned to add additional support to the steps.

15. Finally, add the railing. First mark the location of the balusters on the handrail, then attach the balusters to the handrail using 2-1/2-inch screws. Next, pop a chalk line across the balusters and pre-drill holes in each where they will be attached to the deck trim. Add each railing section with the same screws, two screws for each baluster against the trim. Repeat this process around the entire perimeter (figure K).

16. After three days of hard work, your deck is finished (figure L). This project will cost in the neighborhood of 1500 dollars.

Also in this Episode
Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-1006
•How to Build an Attached Deck