Deck Rail Repair

Tools:

portable work bench
power miter saw
special planer for rounding edges
carpenter's square
clamps
handsaw
hammer
power drill
tape measure
push stick for the table saw
prybar
safety glasses
4" x 4" treated lumber (8-foot length)
2" x 6" treated lumber (8-foot length)
1" x 3" lumber
nails
galvanized deck screws

1. Measure the existing posts and cut new end posts to match. Measure the length of the post from the bottom of the top plate down to where it hangs below the edge of the deck (figure A).

2. Some posts have notches cut into them near the base where they attach to the deck. If the post is notched, measure the depth of the notch (figure B) and mark off the area to be cut out of the new post (figure C).

3. Cut the 4 x 4 using a miter saw. If the saw you're using will not cut through the entire post, then flip the post and continue the cut on the other side.

4. Set the circular saw to the depth of the notch and make a cut across the 4 x 4 where the notch hangs over.

5. Use a handsaw to cut out the notch (figure D).

6. Screw the posts in through the overhang in the notch and into the deck using galvanized deck screws (figure E). Be sure and drill pilot holes before drilling in the screws.

7. Measure the length and width of the rails that run along the top and bottom of the rail frame (figure F). (The deck on the show had four rails, two on the bottom and two on top, that measured 39-1/2 inches long by 2-inches wide.)

8. Set your table saw so that the guide is two inches away from the blade. Rip your lumber to the proper width using a push stick so that your hands are clear of the blade (figure G). Remember to always wear eye protection and make sure your table saw has a protective shroud over the blade.

9. Measure the width and length of your vertical pieces (in our case they are 1-1 /2 inch wide by 22-inches long), set the saw and rip the pieces.

10. Measure the width of the vertical pieces on the ends (in our case they're only an inch wide) and rip those pieces.

11. Set the chop saw so you have a block that allows you to slide your stringers into position and automatically cut them to length (figure H). In our case that was 39-1/2 inches.

12. Slide the block and cut the vertical pieces to the proper length.

13. Space the vertical pieces out along the top and bottom stringer of one side in the same way the verticals were spaced out on the matching fence rail. Nail each vertical in at each end.

15. Drive screws in at an angle to mount the new frame into position between the posts (figure K). Cut the top cap to length and place it over the handrail frame and posts.

16. Use a circular saw or hand saw to cut the "dog-eared" shapes.

17. Drill the top cap into the posts on each end, again driving pilot holes before using the screws.

18. Use a hand planer to round off the edges of the lumber (figure L).