If you'd like to gain access to your deck from the yard but don't have a staircase, you can build and install one in a day or two.
Materials:measuring tape
level
torpedo level
posthole digger
shovel
circular saw
jigsaw
wheelbarrow
framing square
Phillips-head screwdriver
drill, with drill bits, spade bits and a Phillips driver bit
circular saw
reciprocating saw
miter saw
chalk line
sixteenpenny galvanized nails
2-1/2" galvanized deck screws
5/4" deck planks
2"x12" beams
4"x4" posts
concrete mix
1-1/2" wooden dowels
safety glasses
Steps: Installing the Stairs - Begin by figuring the rise and run of the steps. Measure the height in inches from the floor of the deck to the ground, and divide the number by 7.5 to determine how many steps the staircase will need. Building codes state that the maximum stair height is 7.5 inches. For example, if the deck is 112 inches from the ground, divide 112 by 7.5 to get 14.93 steps. Round the number to the nearest full step to get 15 steps.
- Determine the rise height by dividing the height in inches by the number of steps. In our example, 112 inches divided by 15 steps equals 7.46 inches, which means that our risers will be 7.46 inches high.
- The standard depth for stair treads is 10 inches, but you can make yours larger if you want. To determine the length your staircase will extend into the yard, multiply the number of steps by the depth of steps. In this case, 15 steps multiplied by 10 inches equals 150 inches, or 12-1/2 feet. If the staircase extends too far into the yard, you may want to build a landing in the middle and change the direction of the staircase. If the end of the steps is in a higher or lower area, you'll need to adjust your measurements accordingly.
- Check the ground to be sure it's level. Place a long board on the ground, and check the level of the board (figure A).
- Using the desired width of the staircase and the number of steps, determine the location of your landing. Mark the ground for the location of the posts, and use posthole diggers or a shovel to dig holes for the post footings. The holes should be about 16 inches wide and deep enough to extend below the frost line (the depth at which the ground doesn't freeze) to make sure the footings aren't forced out of the ground by frost heaving. Contact your local housing and development department to find out how deep your frost line is.
- Mix concrete in a wheelbarrow, and pour it in each hole. You may want to use a gravel base at the bottom of each hole to allow better drainage. You should end up with a concrete pad that's at least 8 inches thick. Use a board or trowel to level the concrete a few inches below ground level (figure B).
- If you're building the stairs along the side of your house, you can install a ledger board (figure C) on the side of the house to help support the landing. Make sure the ledger board is level. The landing will be square, the same width as the stairs. You may want the upper run of stairs to rest firmly on the landing (three or four inches) for better stability.
- Attach the joists of the landing onto the ledger board. Use temporary supports to hold the frame of the landing in place while you install it (figure D).
- After squaring the joists and temporarily bracing the frame, set the posts for the landing on concrete piers (figure E) placed on the concrete footings. Set the posts in place in the piers, and adjust them so that they are plumb and even with the frame.
- Begin installing the planks on the landing. Then remove the braces.
- Cut the stringers--the sides of the stairs that hold up the steps--from 2"x12" boards. Start by measuring the top step. For example, if the rise of your steps is 7-1/2 inches you'd start by placing a framing square at one corner of the board so that one leg is 7-1/2 inches from the corner of the square. The other leg should be 10 inches (the depth of the steps) from the side of the board. You may want to install a center stringer for added support.
- Trace along the edge of the square to mark the cut line for the stringer. You won't need a riser for the top step because it will be attached to the deck or landing. Instead create a return by drawing a straight line along the mark you made from the corner of the board (figure F).
- Mark the remaining cuts the same way. Set the framing square at the point where the last line comes off the board (figure G), and repeat the measurements for the first cutout.
- For the last step, create another return (figure H). This section will be the part of the stringer that sits on the ground.
- Use a circular saw to cut along the lines, and finish the cutouts with a jigsaw.
- Set the stringers in place and attach them to the deck or landing with galvanized deck screws (figure I).
- You may want to attach a ledger to the front of the landing or deck for added support. If so, you'll need to notch out the front of the stringer to accommodate the ledger (figure J).
- Use a torpedo level (a small level that can fit in tight spaces) to check the level of the stringers.
- Toenail the stringer into the landing using galvanized deck screws. Also attach the stringer from the side.
- Rest the ends of the stringers on concrete pads to reduce settling and protect the wood (figure K).
- Use 2"x6" pressure-treated lumber to create the treads of the stairs. The treads should overlap the stringers by about one inch on the front and sides. Push the treads tightly together against the back of the stringer and fasten them with galvanized deck screws.
- Install posts to support the bottoms of the stringers and the stair rails (figure L ). Dig a hole for each post, and set it in place. Attach the stringers using galvanized deck screws.
- The top of the post should be cut at the same angle as the stringer (figure M). You can use a circular saw to make the cut after installing the post.
Installing the Railing
- Begin installing the railing for the staircase, starting with the bottom railing. Lay the board for the rail on the steps next to the post, and mark the angle against the post at the top and bottom (figure N). Cut the rail with a miter saw. Cut the top rail and baluster holder to the same size.
- Mark the rails for baluster placement according to local building codes. Most codes stipulate that a six-inch ball should be unable to pass between the balusters. If your steps are 10 inches deep, you can place a baluster on the rise of each step and in the center of each step. To mark for the balusters, lay the top rail and the baluster holder between the two posts on top of the bottom rail. Place a framing square against the step so that the corner fits in the step corner and the leg extends past the tops of the rails. Mark a straight line on the top of the rail boards at each rise. Use the framing square to mark the center balusters as well.
- Use a spade bit to drill into the marks (figure O). Keep the drill as plumb as possible, and be careful not to bore all the way through the bottom rail.
- Attach the bottom rail, baluster holder and top rail. Fit wooden dowels through the holes (figure P).
- Install a cap on the top rail for a finished look (figure Q).
- Install braces to help support the rails between the posts (figure R).
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