Problem: A handrail mounted to the steps can be unstable and potentially dangerous.
Solution: Install a ground-mounted handrail, which will be more stable and more attractive.
Equipment list:
Tape measure
Level
Hammer
Bevel square
Tri square (also known as a speed square)
Plumb bob
Sanding block
Drill, with drill bits and driver bits
Circular saw
Safety glasses and gloves
Hoe
Post hole digger
Wheelbarrow
Materials will include two 4 x 4 posts, a 2 x 8 handrail support piece, a handrail cap, some pre-cut balusters, some gravel, and some fast-setting pre-mixed concrete (1 or 2 bags).
Install the support posts
- Determine where to place the posts by placing a plumb bob on the edge of the stringer (the side board to which the steps are attached).
- Use the post hole digger to dig holes for your posts. Dig the holes about 18 inches or so, but make sure the holes extend below the frost line.
- Place a 4-inch layer of gravel in each hole to allow for proper drainage.
- Remove the old handrails.
- Mix the concrete in your wheelbarrow. Pour the dry concrete into the wheelbarrow, then add a little water and "cut" the concrete into the water with the hoe until it is mixed thoroughly. Repeat this process until you've added the amount of water recommended by the manufacturer. Fast-setting concrete sets in about 20 minutes, so you'll need to work quickly.
- Place the post in the holes, and use the level to make sure they're plumb. Pour concrete around the posts, and use a board to tamp the concrete down and make sure there are no voids. Then secure the posts to the stringer with 3" screws.
- Use the bevel square to determine the angle of your stringer. Transfer the angle measurements to each post about 30" higher than the closest step (this will provide the clearance needed by the rail cap and will allow you to place your final rail at the 32" to 34" required by building codes). Mark the measurements on one side of the post, and then transfer the measurements to the other side by using the tri-square. You will need to mark both sides of the square because your circular-saw blade won't be able to cut through the 4 x 4 in one pass. You can use a handsaw for this step if you're not comfortable using a circular saw.
Install the handrail
- Cut the 2x8 handrail support to a length that allows it to extend over all the steps. Use the bevel square to mark the angles at the ends so they will be plumb. Then square off the bottom corner so that people won't bang their knees into it as they come down the steps.
- Pre-drill holes for the handrail support, and secure it to the posts using 3" wood screws. Be sure the top of the handrail support extends about 2" above the tops of the posts to allow room for the handrail cap.
- Pre-drill holes in the handrail cap, and then screw the cap to the handrail support using 2" wood screws. The handrail cap comes pre-grooved, allowing it to fit snugly on the handrail support.
- Pre-drill holes in the top and bottom of each baluster. Then, place the center baluster in position, check it for plumb with the level, and secure it to the handrail support and stringer with 2" screws. Space the balusters no more than 6" apart - you may want to use a 5" block of wood as a template. By starting with the center baluster, you will get a more balanced look to your railing.
- Finally, sand down any rough edges or corners, and sand down the entire length of the rail cap.
Problem: A handrail mounted to the steps can be unstable and potentially dangerous.
Solution: Install a ground-mounted handrail, which will be more stable and more attractive.
Equipment list:
Tape measure
Level
Hammer
Bevel square
Tri square (also known as a speed square)
Plumb bob
Sanding block
Drill, with drill bits and driver bits
Circular saw
Safety glasses and gloves
Hoe
Post hole digger
Wheelbarrow
Materials will include two 4 x 4 posts, a 2 x 8 handrail support piece, a handrail cap, some pre-cut balusters, some gravel, and some fast-setting pre-mixed concrete (1 or 2 bags).
Install the support posts
- Determine where to place the posts by placing a plumb bob on the edge of the stringer (the side board to which the steps are attached).
- Use the post hole digger to dig holes for your posts. Dig the holes about 18 inches or so, but make sure the holes extend below the frost line.
- Place a 4-inch layer of gravel in each hole to allow for proper drainage.
- Remove the old handrails.
- Mix the concrete in your wheelbarrow. Pour the dry concrete into the wheelbarrow, then add a little water and "cut" the concrete into the water with the hoe until it is mixed thoroughly. Repeat this process until you've added the amount of water recommended by the manufacturer. Fast-setting concrete sets in about 20 minutes, so you'll need to work quickly.
- Place the post in the holes, and use the level to make sure they're plumb. Pour concrete around the posts, and use a board to tamp the concrete down and make sure there are no voids. Then secure the posts to the stringer with 3" screws.
- Use the bevel square to determine the angle of your stringer. Transfer the angle measurements to each post about 30" higher than the closest step (this will provide the clearance needed by the rail cap and will allow you to place your final rail at the 32" to 34" required by building codes). Mark the measurements on one side of the post, and then transfer the measurements to the other side by using the tri-square. You will need to mark both sides of the square because your circular-saw blade won't be able to cut through the 4 x 4 in one pass. You can use a handsaw for this step if you're not comfortable using a circular saw.
Install the handrail
- Cut the 2x8 handrail support to a length that allows it to extend over all the steps. Use the bevel square to mark the angles at the ends so they will be plumb. Then square off the bottom corner so that people won't bang their knees into it as they come down the steps.
- Pre-drill holes for the handrail support, and secure it to the posts using 3" wood screws. Be sure the top of the handrail support extends about 2" above the tops of the posts to allow room for the handrail cap.
- Pre-drill holes in the handrail cap, and then screw the cap to the handrail support using 2" wood screws. The handrail cap comes pre-grooved, allowing it to fit snugly on the handrail support.
- Pre-drill holes in the top and bottom of each baluster. Then, place the center baluster in position, check it for plumb with the level, and secure it to the handrail support and stringer with 2" screws. Space the balusters no more than 6" apart - you may want to use a 5" block of wood as a template. By starting with the center baluster, you will get a more balanced look to your railing.
- Finally, sand down any rough edges or corners, and sand down the entire length of the rail cap.
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