Remodeling : Installation : Drywall Ceilings : Home & Garden Television

Figure A Click to enlarge.

Starting Out

We made the construction plan by first locating the lowest point of the ductwork in the room and then measured down from the floor joists to determine the location for the new ceiling (figure A).
Next, we measured around the room and marked the corners of the room.
We then pulled chalk lines to the marked points around the room. This line will provide a level beginning point for installing joists around the perimeter of the room.
We measured the wall lengths to determine the lengths for the 2x4s we would nail around the perimeter of the room.
Then using a circular saw, we cut the 2x4s to length to make the nailing blocks.

Figure B Click to enlarge.

Figure C Click to enlarge.

Then standing securely on a ladder, we nailed the 2x4s around the room, using the marked room outline as a guide (figure B).

We nailed the 2x4s into the wall studs using 16d cement coated nails. We continued nailing around the room until all the blocks were installed.

We also installed one beam across the center of the room, perpendicular to the direction the ceiling joists will go (figure C). The beam will be used to help support the ceiling joists.

Ceiling Joists

First, we laid out the 2x4 joists 16-inches on center, measured and then cut each joist to length.
Using stud marking tape, we marked the location for the joists every 16-inches.
Next, we measured for the joist length and then cut 2x4s to that length to make the ceiling joists.

Figure D Click to enlarge.

Figure E Click to enlarge.

Figure F Click to enlarge.

We toenailed the ceiling joists to the 2x4s around the perimeter of the room, attaching two nails to each joist (figure D). Joists run at right angles to the beams so make sure to check the square for the joists to fit right. We continued to install the additional joists around the room.

Finally, we secured the joists to the support beam in the center of the room, making sure to maintain our 16-inch centers (figure E).

When all the joists were attached, we used a short piece of 2x4 to secure the beam to one of the floor joists above (figure F).

Drywall

First, we marked our drywall to make it easier to line up on the joists.

Figure G Click to enlarge.

Figure H Click to enlarge.

Figure I Click to enlarge.

We applied drywall adhesive to the joists for extra strength and hold for the drywall sheets (figure G).

Starting in a corner against one side of the room, we lifted the first drywall sheet to the ceiling, placing the end of the drywall center of the joist (figure H).

We used the guideline drawn on the drywall earlier as a guide in matching the drywall to the joists.

Next, we slid in a "dead man" under the drywall to help hold it in place (figure I). A dead man is simply a support structure made from 2x4s that acts as an extra "set of arms " when installing drywall overhead.

Then with a screwdriver, we drove in the drywall screws about a half-inch back from the edge of the drywall so you don't break the drywall. Remember to countersink the screws slightly so they can be hidden with drywall compound. We used a special driver attachment that keeps you from driving the screws in too far below the drywall surface.

On the second sheet of drywall, we again used a T-square to mark the joist locations on the back of the drywall sheet. This will help ensure that we drive the drywall screws into the ceiling joists.

We took the measurements to locate the ceiling light box. We then attached the next full sheet of dry wall over top of the light box location, leaving the sheet slightly loose around the area of the box.

Next, we marked the measurements for the light box on the drywall sheet. Using a drywall saw, we made the cutout for the light box and then secured the drywall in the area near the cutout.

Next, we measured and cut the next drywall sheet using a T-square and a utility knife to score the edge.

Figure J Click to enlarge.

We snapped the drywall back away from the scored line and then folded the drywall slightly (figure J).

Then with the utility knife, we cut through the paper backing along the fold.

We attached the sheet to the joists with screws. We then continued adding the remaining drywall sheets, staggering the joints from row to row and moving from the corner out into the rest of the room.

Figure K Click to enlarge.

Figure L Click to enlarge.

Covering Joints

Using a joint knife, we spread a thin layer of joint compound (also known as drywall mud) along the entire length of a joint, covering all the seams (figure K).
Next, we pressed paper drywall tape into the center of the joint in the wet compound and smoothed the tape out with the taping knife (figure L). Be sure to make the tape smooth and that there are no air bubbles under it.
With a wide joint knife, we applied a second layer of drywall mud over the tape , feathering the edges carefully. We repeated the procedure on all of the seams and joints.
We filled screw holes as we worked along. We then let the compound dry according to the manufacturer's directions.

Figure M Click to enlarge.

Figure N Click to enlarge.

Using a 12-inch-wide joint knife, we spread a final thin layer of compound over the seams. We used the joint knife to feather the joints as smoothly as possible (figure M). You will actually take off most of the compound mud than you put on. We used a smaller joint knife to cover all the screwheads to fill them in flush with the surface. After this coat is done you should not be able to see the joint tape.

Using a damp sponge, we wiped over our joint compound smoothing out any rough areas (figure N). Using this method--rather then sanding with sandpaper--avoids creating dust and thus helps reduce cleanup. This method also eliminates any possibility of marring the dry wall surface with excessive sanding. Be sure to wear safety glasses any time you work overhead.

Figure O Click to enlarge.

Figure P Click to enlarge.

Media
VIDEO: Installing a drywall ceiling is a lot of work, but it's a fairly straightforward process.

Painting

We began painting the ceiling by "cutting in" with a brush (figure O). Cutting in means painting in the corners and along any edges where a roller won't reach. Keeping an eye on the paint edge, we painted in long, slow strokes, painting from the dry area back into the wet paint to avoid lap marks.
Then, using a large nap roller attached to an extension pole, we saturated the nap of the roller with paint and began painting the ceiling (figure P). Since we are working in a basement, and our floor is unfinished, we did not use drop cloths.
After our primer coat dried, we applied the finish coat of ceiling paint.

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