Expand and Tile a Countertop

Tools:

saw horses
2x4s
miter saw
large straightedge
reciprocating saw
circular saw
power drill
power grinder
diamond-embedded wheel
toothed trowels
handsaw
scraper
tape measure
clamps
pry bars
hammer
chisel
gloves
eye protection
dust mask
cement board
3/4-inch plywood
all-purpose mastic
wood screws
cement backer board
cement backer board unit screws
bucket
grout sponge
clean, soft cloth
pitcher
big and small toothed trowels
hammer
nail set
grout floats
rubber gloves
safety glasses
tiles
non-sanded grout
caulk
nails

1. Use the reciprocating saw to cut through the nails holding the trim pieces together at the corners, then take the hammer and pry bar and start removing trim (figure A).

2. If any trim pieces are connected to adjoining trim at the wall, cut the trim away using the reciprocating saw (figure B).

3. Now have at the tiles with a hammer and a pry bar (figure C).

4. Scrape away remaining adhesive with a carbide-tipped scraper.

5. Since the guest is expanding the width of the counter, not the length, measure for the length only. Cut a piece of plywood to length to serve as the base of the new countertop. Always wear a dust mask and eye protection when using power tools.

6. Now dry-fit the tiles. First place the plywood on a couple of sawhorses, then lay the cement backer board on top (figure D).

7. Tape the border pieces in place, then start arranging your tiles (figure E). Use spacers between the tiles to leave room for a grout line. Turn the border pieces upside-down to get a truer measure on the side where you'll cut the backer board and plywood.

8. Mark a nice, straight cutline and cut the backer board using a grinder equipped with a diamond-embedded cutting blade (figure F). It's very important to wear work gloves, a dust mask and a face mask when cutting backer board. Cut the backer board to length using the same process (figure G).

9. Cut the plywood to size using a circular saw.

10. Use a handsaw to cut away enough clearance under the vertical trim pieces, if necessary (figure H).

11. Spread a layer of adhesive with the toothed trowel (figure I).

12. Place the plywood on the counter and draw a grid of 6-inch squares using the straight edge. Insert screws at the intersection points of the grid.

13. Now put the backer board in place and draw another grid for screws. Make sure this second, top grid is offset from the lower grid by an inch.

14. Secure the backer board at each intersection point of the grid using cement backer board screws (figure J).

15. Spread a layer of thin-set adhesive over a small area of the backer board and go to work with your tiles. Start by placing the bullnose border tiles (figure K). Use spacers to leave even gaps for the mortar. Spread a little mortar on the backs of the border tiles before placing for a more secure fit.

16. Now place the surface tiles, again using spacers (figure L). Wipe away any excess mortar from the tops of the tiles before it dries. Allow the adhesive to cure for 24-hours before coming back and adding the grout.

17. Attach the original trim and set nails beneath the surface using a nail set (figure M).

18. Mix grout according to directions and spread over tiles with a rubberized grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to force plenty of grout into the gaps (figure N).

19. Clean up excess grout using a special grout sponge with rounded edges so you don't remove grout from the joints (figure O). Sweep away residual dust with an almost-dry grout sponge.

20. Polish away any remaining haze with a soft, clean cloth. Fill in gaps between the tile and wall with flexible caulk (figure P).