Convertible Table Bench

* Note: These instructions coincide with a woodworking plan. Plans vary, so your measurements and instructions will be unique to your plan.

Materials:

2x4 and 2x6 pressure-treated lumber
tape measure
miter saw
band saw (for two top back supports)
safety glasses
dust mask
3" and 4" carriage bolts
2-1/2" galvanized screws
drill
eye bolts
4' level
random orbit sander
belt sander
100 and 220 grit sandpaper
clean, lint-free cloth
solid-color water-based stain (or clear coat)
rollers and brushes

Steps:

1. Begin by measuring and marking lengths on your lumber with a miter saw. Cut all pieces to length. This project required eight 2x4x10s for the top back seat planks and two more 2x4x10s for the top back supports. Next, two each were cut for back legs, front legs, back braces and seat supports. Remember to always practice safety when cutting lumber.

2. Miter cut the ends of the front and back legs and seat supports. Be sure that you miter both ends of the legs and supports while one end of the back is cut square and the other is mitered. You need to miter the front legs parallel while the ends of the supports are mitered in the opposite directions.

4. Many rabbet cuts will also be made. Make several passes until the joints are 3-1/2-inches wide (figure C), which is the actual width of a 2x4.

5. Once all rabbet cuts (and any angle cuts) are made, it's time to start putting the pieces together. To assemble the first seat support and front leg, drill two holes at the lap joint and then secure the assembly with 3-inch-long carriage bolts (figure D). Repeat the same process for the other front leg and seat support.

6. For the back legs, first measure up 13 inches on the leg and mark the location for the seat support. Drill two holes at the lap joint and secure the components with carriage bolts (figure E). The next step is to secure the back braces to the leg and seat support assemblies. Insert the back braces into the notches in the back leg and secure with two galvanized screws at each joint (figure F).

7. Attach the back top supports by marking the bolt locations, drilling holes and securing the pieces with 4-inch-long carriage bolts. These supports must pivot freely, so don't tighten the nuts too tightly. Because these are pivoting braces, apply a second nut to each bolt to act as a locking nut to keep both nuts in place (figure G). The frame is now complete.

8. Next, place the 2x4 seat slats on to the seat support and secure with galvanized screws. With each slat, make sure you have the appropriate amount of overhang on each end and drill pilot holes before inserting the screws. Use a scrap piece of wood to maintain consistent spacing.

10. The bulk of assembly is now complete (figure I). After finding the center of the tabletop, attach the table supports with galvanized screws. Use two screws for each table slat along the support. Attach the bottom seat support, again using two screws for each slat.

11. Next, set the tabletop upright and check the level with a 4-foot level. Drill a hole through the tabletop support and leg (figure J) and then test the fit of the 4-inch eye bolt. Repeat this step for the other side of the bench.

12. All that's left now is sanding and staining. Use a random orbit sander and 100-grit sandpaper to work your way across the table. Guide the sander without using excessive pressure. A belt sander will come in handy here to round the wood edges of the table (figure K). Once sanding is complete, wipe the surface thoroughly with a clean cloth.

13. Apply stain using 4-inch brushes. Work carefully and be sure to get between all seat and table slats. Leave no surfaces unprotected. Once dry, you will have both a table (figure L) and a bench (figure M). Both positions are locked in place with eye bolts and wing nuts.

14. This project costs only 80 dollars and takes around a day to complete.